The Home Know-It-All

Freezer Buying Guide

Did you know that the average life span of a freezer is 20 years? That's a major commitment! So when you buy a new freezer, you want to be sure you find the one that meets all of your needs and criteria. Here are a few things you should keep in mind before you buy a new freezer.

Emphasize Efficiency
Here at the Home Know-It-All, we find ourselves recommending ENERGY STAR qualified appliances often, for a variety of applications. This one is no different! An ENERGY STAR qualified freezer can save you up to 40 percent of the energy used by a freezer from only 10 years ago, and uses 10 percent less energy than a new, non-ENERGY STAR qualified model.

Choose the Chest
Upright freezers, though they take up less floor space, are somewhat less efficient than chest freezers. Here's why: heat rises and cold falls. Chest freezers, when opened, don't leave the cold anywhere to fall to, but opening an upright freezer allows more cold air to escape, reducing efficiency.

Select Your Size
Be realistic when choosing the size of your freezer—saving an extra five percent on your purchase price by buying the next bigger model isn't necessarily a better deal. Bigger units use more energy, and space left empty inside a freezer is a major energy drain. Typically, a family of four shouldn't need larger than a 10-cubic-foot model. 

Decide About Defrosting
A freezer with manual defrost can provide big energy savings compared to one with automatic defrosting. But with manual defrost, you have to remember to do it, and defrosting does require a little time and effort. ENERGY STAR suggests not letting more than a quarter of an inch of frost build up inside your freezer before defrosting. Visit Green Energy Efficient Homes for more freezer purchasing and energy saving advice.

Until next time, 
The Home Know-It-All

 

 

Kitchen Computers

A computer in the kitchen is great for many things—looking up recipes, streaming cooking shows, and converting measurements—but finding a safe place to store it can be tricky. A kitchen is ripe with messes, hungry children, and scurrying chefs, and all are capable of damaging your computer. Here are a few ways to keep your kitchen computer out of harm's way. 

Mount it on or in the wall. 
In a small kitchen, it may not be possible to set your computer on the counter, but if you have the space, it may not be wise. You may bump it off fixing dinner in a rush, or a wayward spill may damage it. Instead, mount it on or inside the wall like these folks. The computer won't contribute to your kitchen's clutter or stand in the path of destruction, but it will still be convenient.

Invest in a tablet computer. 
Tablet computers—like the iPad or HP Slate—are portable devices with a touchscreen as their primary input device (rather than a keyboard like most computers). Small, lightweight, and capable of running many of the same applications as conventional computers, they are ideal for kitchen use. Store yours on a tabletop easel meant for small areas. The easels are affordable (often under $10, like this one) and a great way to secure your tablet computer and make it easy to read. 

Put it under glass. 
If you're in the process of creating a kitchen, consider putting your computer under glass. Glass countertops are readily available, and a little creativity with your cabinetry can give you the freedom to click while you chop. 

Until next time,
The Home Know-It-All

 

Slow Drain, Natural Cures

A stubborn drain clog can be difficult to remove, but before you head for the dangerously potent commercial drain cleaner, try these natural, easy-on-the-environment mixtures that will get the job done too. 

• 1/2 cup salt + 1 gallon hot water: If your drain is slow to empty, this simple saltwater concoction may be enough to free up any trapped debris. 

• 1 cup washing soda + 1 gallon hot water: For a more aggressive solution, washing soda (sodium carbonate, a key ingredient in toothpaste and glassmaking) is abrasive enough to loosen clogs. If the pipes leading from your drain are PVC (polyvinyl chloride), avoid regular use of washing soda—it can eat away at the plastic over time. 

• 1 cup baking soda + 1 cup distilled white vinegar: harkening back to our days in grade school science class, the baking soda and vinegar "volcano" can actually be very effective at clearing clogged drains. After removing water from the sink, pour your baking soda in, follow with vinegar, and quickly plug the drain. After the bubbles recede (in roughly 30 minutes), rinse with hot water. 

WARNING: Do not use vinegar or washing soda if you have already applied a commercial drain cleaner—these ingredients can react with other chemicals, creating harmful or even lethal gas fumes. 

For more information on quick, all natural drain-cleaning tips, visit Care2.com, or for additional green living advice, drop by greenyour.com.

Until next time, 
The Home Know-It-All

Fridays with designer Martin Amado

Here is the final installment of Fridays with designer Martin Amado. For readers just joining us, we're bringing you the video of our interview with Martin Amado—a renowned home decor and lifestyle expert best known for hosting HGTV's Small Space, Big Style and appearing as a guest designer on that network's Decorating Cents. 

For more information on Amado's work, visit his website. 

Today's Question: 
What suggestions do you have for making our reader’s kitchens more energy-efficient?  

 

If you're unable to view the video, click here to watch it on YouTube.

Until next time, 
The Home Know-It-All

Help With a Clogged Drain

We recently received a comment from a reader who is struggling to clear a clogged drain. A plumber ran a camera into the drain and found the culprit: a plastic cap from a spray can lodged in the main drain under the living room. The plumber suggests cutting into the terrazzo floor and through the pipe to remove the cap. Cost? $1,500.

We contacted Larry Rothman, Roto-Rooter's director of plumbing and engineering services, for his advice on a possible alternative solution to our reader's predicament. 

Rothman says the plumber or sewer technician should first try to use a high-pressure water jetter to force the spray can out of the pipe. "Ideally, the water-jet operator would insert a jet hose into the main line through a cleanout access port on the pipe itself, usually located in the basement or a capped riser in the front yard near the foundation," Rothman says. Though some older homes were not originally equipped with cleanout ports, most had them installed later. The jet operator should be able to access the sewer line from the nearest manhole.

The jetter hoses are able to reach up to 500 feet and can blast water at more than 3,000 PSI! That's powerful enough to pulverize solid debris if it can't be dislodged. After using the jet, many operators work a fiber-optic sewer inspection camera back into the line to be sure the obstruction is gone. While jetting isn't considered an inexpensive option, it could still be a more cost-effective (and less disruptive) solution than tearing into the floor. For more information on jetting, check out Roto-Rooter's website.

We hope this helps!

Until next time, 
The Home Know-It-All

Replace An Old Showerhead

 
It's a bit funny how we tend to overlook the things we use most often. The excess dripping of a showerhead, for instance, might go unnoticed day after day. When we do become aware of the problem, fixing it can get demoted to the bottom of our to-do list—after all, it still works, right? 

This weekend, make it a priority to treat yourself to a more enjoyable shower, lower heating bill, and good feelings from helping out the environment. Installing a low-flow showerhead can be an inexpensive repair (showerheads range anywhere from $10 to $200) that is too easy not to do. 

What you'll need:

• Replacement low-flow showerhead
• Teflon tape (thread seal tape)
• Wrench
• Ten minutes

Preparation

Firmly turn off your shower faucets—this should be a dry process from beginning to end. Next, unscrew your old showerhead. The neck of the showerhead should be flat where it meets the wall pipe—this is meant for your wrench. You may find it's a bit reluctant to unscrew, particularly if it's been in use for many years. After its removal, clean the wall pipe's threads of any residual Teflon tape or pipe compound. 

Installation

Tightly wrap your new Teflon tape clockwise around the wall pipe's threads four or five times. Applying the tape in a clockwise direction will make sure the showerhead won't work against the tape seam when you tighten it during installation. Avoid wrapping the tape above the threads, as it will show after the showerhead is installed. It might be a small thing, but it'll irk you later. 

If your new showerhead comes with a rubber washer, place the washer inside the showerhead and hand-tighten only. Over-tightening (as is prone to happen with a wrench) will force the washer into the wall pipe, creating all manner of trouble. 

If your showerhead doesn't come with a washer, tighten it firmly with a wrench. Be careful to avoid cross threading the new showerhead with the threads on the wall pipe—this is particularly easy to do with aluminum, since it's a fairly soft metal. 

Not too hard, right? Go enjoy your new shower!

Until next time, 

The Home Know-It-All

Sweating Copper Pipes

For those preparing to tackle a DIY plumbing job, there's a good chance you're going to be working with copper pipes—in which case cutting and joining them is almost inevitable. "Sweating" a copper pipe is simply the process of joining two copper pipes using solder. So if cascading streams of water aren't something you want to see in your home, pay careful attention to these tips.

What you'll need:

• Appropriate copper pipes and joints for your project
• Hard or soft, lead-free solder (NOTE: Hard solder contains a phosphorous flux already in its composition. This is toxic if ingested—it should not be used for potable water lines)
• Tube reamer
• Combination wire brush
• Rag
• Plumbing flux
• Propane torch

Preparation:

The first key to achieving a watertight bond between your two pipes is careful preparation of the two mating surfaces. After cutting a pipe, use your reamer to remove any burrs from the cut end, followed by your wire brush to clean both mating surfaces and remove any oxidized copper. Use a clean rag to wipe off any grit. The basic principle here is that clean surfaces will bond tightly. 

Assembly:

Apply plumbing flux on the now-abraded surfaces and connect the joint. Move your torch flame around the joint, keeping the flame just touching the surface and heating evenly. The copper should get shiny as the flux proceeds to melt, followed by the metal getting dull and the flux beginning to smoke. This indicates it's time to apply your solder.

Soldering:

Carefully touch the tip of the solder to the joint, keeping the flame on the joint to maintain the temperature. The solder should be sucked directly into the joint as it melts. On horizontal connections, start applying the solder at the bottom of the joint and work your way up and over the pipe, then back around. For vertical pipe connections, apply the solder evenly around the pipe. 

Click here for more information on keeping your newly assembled pipes from freezing during the winter.

Until next time, 

The Home Know-It-All 

Starting Out With Septic Tanks

Those who live in the city and enjoy the comparative luxury of public water may be unfamiliar with the use or existence of septic tanks. For those that make the move to suburbia or the countryside, however, a working knowledge of septic tank systems is handy.

What it is:
A septic tank is an underground apparatus that breaks down and disposes of human wastewater. A home's toilets, showers, and sinks are piped into the tank, where bacteria digest any solids that enter. The remaining liquid passes through a leach field (a network of perforated pipes that disperse the liquid into the soil). Ideally, wastewater then percolates through the soil, becoming relatively pure before encountering groundwater.

Common problems:
One of the most common issues with septic tanks is wastewater backup. This stems from the soil surrounding the leach field becoming saturated or clogged, preventing the tank's wastewater from exiting. The traffic jam causes sewage to back up into the house's plumbing fixtures. Ugly.

Soggy, smelly earth and standing water around your tank are good indications that you have a septic problem. 

Maintenance: 
Experts recommend having your septic tank pumped every few years, but smaller systems will require more frequent pumping. It generally costs a few hundred dollars to have the tank professionally pumped. But you can extend the time between pumps and the overall life of your system if you avoid disposing of hazardous chemicals in your sink and toilet. Waste that doesn't break down naturally will clog your system, while some chemicals like bleach kill the bacteria your tank needs. 

Installing a new septic tank can cost several thousand dollars, so if you plan to purchase a home with a septic tank, verify your contract demands a septic inspection and pumping. 

For a more in-depth guide to septic systems, pay the EPA a visit.  

Until next time, 
The Home Know-It-All

Restoring a Claw-Foot Bathtub

For many of us who have a penchant for neat old stuff, claw-foot bathtubs are a great find. Hearkening back to a time when things were built to last, these cast-iron beauties serve as both an attractive and functional element of almost any bathroom design. 

Because we often find them through secondhand means—at garage sales, antique stores, or through friends or family who may be remodeling an older home—these tubs often find their way to us in less-than-desirable shape. But with just a little bit of hard work, you can restore its original beauty.

Analyze the Condition

First, give the tub a quick once-over to establish what degree of restoration it's going to require. Keep in mind, it was and continues to be common for old claw-foot tubs to find their way into farmer's barns and fields for use as feed and water troughs. They may require a great deal of work before they're ready for human use, and the extent of the damage may be such that you will be forced to hire a professional to complete the restoration on your behalf. Ideally, the structure of the tub will be sound, and all four legs will either still be attached or will come with the tub to be attached later. 

Clean it Up

Hose down the tub to remove resilient dirt and grime. Follow up with a dose of baking soda past (roughly three parts baking soda to one part water), and get scrubbing. 

Spruce Up the Exterior

If there is rust buildup on the outside of the tub or on the feet, you may be forced to either rent a sandblaster or have someone sandblast it for you to take it down to the bare metal. For less severe cases, you may be able to get by with the use of an orbital disc sander. But beware, these tubs are old enough that most were painted with lead-based paint. Wear a mask and sand in a well-ventilated area! With the outside prepared, you can paint it however you choose. Just be sure to apply a sealant afterwards to avoid water stains and—you guessed it—more rust. 

Repair the Interior

If the inside of your claw-foot tub is tarnished or chipped, it may require a new coat of porcelain. While there are liquid porcelain products available for you to use, a professional will inevitably do a better job, and will return the tub to looking like new again. 

Good luck!

Until next time,

The Home Know-It-All

Green Around the House Challenge: Green Your Cooking Process

The next time you're about to whip up dinner for friends and family, reconsider your cooking methods.

According to this Mother Earth News article, the average family cooks 1.5 meals a day, and preparing those meals uses 30 minutes of energy. Continue that trend for a year, and you've spent $150 or more to serve up tasty meals—and that figure doesn't include the cost of food! That's why this week's Green Around the House Challenge is devoted to energy-efficient cooking ideas.

Get rid of grime. I admit it—I'm messy when I prepare meals and desserts. Think lots of olive oil splattered on my stovetop and butter splotches in my microwave. But I always clean up after myself. Here's why: Grime and spills—whether inside your microwave or on your stove's burner pans—absorb heat and reduce energy efficiency.

Size up cookware. Match pots and pans to the heating element or you'll waste energy by eating empty space. Case in point: using a 6-inch pot on an 8-inch burner squanders more than 40 percent of the burner's heat. Yikes! Another consideration: Use a pan with a slightly concave bottom that rests evenly on the burner, because the bottom will flatten out as the metal expands from increased heat. According to the American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy, boiling water for pasta could use 50 percent more energy on a warped pan than on a flat-bottom pan.

Pick the right materials. Whipping up something on the stovetop? Reach for a cast iron pan or copper pan—the former retains heat better, the latter cooks faster. If you're popping a dish in the oven, use glass or ceramic pans, which reduce cooking temperatures by 25 degrees Fahrenheit with no extra time needed. Who knew?

Rethink cooking methods. If you're preparing a small- or medium-size meal, pop it in the microwave rather than in the oven. Microwave ovens can slash energy use by two-thirds compared to a conventional oven. And they generate a lot less heat—a definite plus during these remaining summer days. Another energy-efficient cooking option? Pressure cooking. It reduces stovetop energy use by 50 to 75 percent. If you hand-wash dishes, fill your sink to wash dishes rather than letting water run. Using the dishwasher? Scrape food off dishes without pre-rinsing and fully load the racks.

There are oodles of other ways to green your cooking process—just check out this Chow article for further inspiration. Need to stock up on eco-friendly dishware too? Get the scoop here.

Until next time,

The Home Know-It-All

Make a Splash with an Outdoor Shower

Outdoor showers of yesteryear used to consist of a single hose—pretty simple, eh? Today’s outdoor showers are like an extension of your home, connecting inside and out in a rejuvenating manner. They’re more elaborate and luxurious—and you can incorporate your personality into the design. Want proof? This HGTV article touts the benefits of outdoors showers.

Plus, building outdoor shower can be a DIY project, depending on the caliber of the shower you desire and your building/plumbing expertise. Think an outdoor shower would make a perfect summer project? Here are a few pointers and considerations to help you get started.

Do your homework. Before you break out the tools and materials, check your local building codes—there may very well be bylaws regarding design or drainage as well as lot-line restrictions.

Pick the right site. Decide whether you want a freestanding or wall-mount shower. A freestanding shower is portable and attaches to flexible hosing. Wall-mount showers are stationary. If you build the shower against one wall of your home, you can tap into existing water and sewer lines. This helps cut down on costs. Learn more about the different types of alfresco showers—as well as their costs, benefits, and concerns, in this Bob Vila article. And for more excellent site considerations, check out this Custom Home article, courtesy of BNET.

Drain away. Your should have a good drainage system that carries water away from your house. As I mentioned above, you’ll want to check your local building codes—in some areas, for example, allowing water to drain through a bed of stones (one easy solution) doesn’t exactly fly.

Choose materials wisely. Make sure your material selections are weather-resistant and can stand up to a serious rainstorm. For the frame, stone, cedar, and mahogany are smart options. For the shower fixtures—the shower head; a rack for shampoo, soap, and towels; and a robe hook—opt for stainless steel, brass, or galvanized metal. Underfoot, choose nonslip mildew- and rot-resistant surfaces such as cedar or brick.

Make privacy a priority. Unless you live in a secluded area, you’ll want to make sure you aren’t giving your neighbors an unexpected show—that’s why you’ll want to pay particular consideration to your enclosure. See how home improvement expert Ron Hazelton created a light-filled yet private shower here.

You can also create a sense of enclosure without blocking sunlight with a shade screen. Or consider established climbing vines, which provide a level of privacy (and their leaves trap cool air to block summer heat). If no one can look down on you from a second-story window, you might even leave the top of the shower open. Get the nitty-gritty on creating privacy here.

Need design inspiration? Check out the six striking showers here. If you’re ready to build, here are step-by-step instructions from DIY Network. Or watch this video from This Old House.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Related Posts:
Green Your Shower Curtain
Green Shower Cleaning
Zen Bath Design
Water-Saving Showerheads

Be a Clean, Green Dishwashing Machine

Ready for your next Green Around the House Challenge? You betcha!

For this one, you’ll need to head to the kitchen and get ready to tackle what may be your least favorite chore: dishwashing. With these smart techniques, you’ll save water and energy, which in turn save you money. And that can make even the most unpleasant chore a little more bearable.  

No matter if your dishwasher is a human being or a machine, we’ve got tips to make dishwashing more efficient. But you should know, dishwashers are nearly always more efficient than you, so if possible use the machine. A recent study by the University of Bonn in Germany  found that dishwashers use half the energy, one-sixth the water, and less soap than hand-washing. (I won’t hold it against you if your only dishwasher is yourself, though. After all, I’m in the same boat.)

Hand-washing:

• Employ the two-tub method. Use one section of your sink to soak your dishes and the other to rinse your dishes. This will cut down on the amount of running water.
• Use a green dishwashing liquid. My favorites: Mrs. Meyer’s Dish Soap ($3.99 for a 16-ounce container) and Method’s Dish Soap ($4 for a 25-ounce container).
• Use your pots and pans economically. Why use two pots to make spaghetti (one for the noodles and one for the sauce) when you can get away with one? Simply pour the sauce over the hot noodles to warm it up. You’ll not only save energy and water, but you’ll also save time. 

Using a dishwasher:

• Run your dishwasher only when full. It uses the same amount of water and energy no matter if it’s half or completely full. Milk it for all it’s worth by stuffing it with dishes before flipping the switch.  
• Avoid using the heat-dry, rinse-hold, and pre-rinse settings, which all scarf energy and water. Instead, use the energy-saving cycle and let your dishes air-dry. (Your dishwasher will consume 15 to 50 percent less energy.)
• If your dishwasher was manufactured before 1994, ENERGY STAR® recommends replacing it with an ENERGY STAR® model. You’ll save more than $30 a year in energy costs. Need help choosing a model? Check out our Dishwasher Buying Guide.

Until next time,
The Home Know-It-All

Best Sites for Décor Deals

Many of us are working with recession-size budgets to renovate our homes. And that makes stretching our décor dollars very important. Lucky for us, there are several websites dedicated to helping us score interior decorating bargains. See for yourself. Then let us know what deals you come across.

• When it comes to finding one-of-a-kind and inexpensive pieces for your home, Etsy is the place to go. It’s an “online marketplace for buying and selling all things handmade,” so everything comes directly from the maker, eliminating the middleman and decreasing your price.
• You know that your local dollar store offers great deals on everything from wrapping paper to cooking utensils, but did you know that you can also buy great interior decorations on the Dollar Tree’s website? You can’t beat a $1 picture frame, candleholder, or vase.
• If you’re a serious decorator and you’re looking for a serious deal, WishIHadThat.com might be your ideal shop. You’ll find everything from ceiling beams to marble carvings at a price that’s virtually impossible to beat.
• Fabric.com offers a huge selection of clearance fabrics, so if you’re in the market for new curtains or pillows, I’d suggest swinging by this site first.

So bargain hunter, what other sites are offering up good deals? Please, share them here!

Until next time,
The Home Know-It-All

Best Bath Flooring

You’ve read about my fellow Home Know-It-All’s $200 bathroom makeover, so you know she replaced the carpet (ick!) with vinyl tile flooring—a much better choice for a bathroom.

(If you’re one of the unfortunate souls stuck with carpeting in your bathroom, this article can help you make it work.)

But what other options do you have for bathroom flooring? You’d be surprised by the variety on the market today. Here are a few of your choices:

Solid Hardwood
It may look fantastic, but solid hardwood isn’t necessarily one of your best choices for bathroom flooring. It’s easily damaged by water, and it can get rather slippery when wet. If you do decide to use it, be sure it’s sealed after installation, so no water can seep into the nooks.

Engineered Wood
Love the look of hardwood but don’t want to worry about upkeep in a bathroom? Engineered wood can be a great alternative. Because the top layer is real wood, it looks just like solid hardwood, but a plywood base makes it more durable. 

Laminate
Manufacturers are doing wonders with laminate flooring these days. From the wood look to the stone look, laminate flooring appears more like the real thing. Plus, it’s one of the most durable flooring options, so if you have little ones running around, this could be the best choice for you.

Sustainable
Go green in your bathroom with a sustainable flooring option. Although bamboo and reclaimed hardwood work well and look great in other parts of the house, the best sustainable choice for a bathroom is cork flooring. It feels warm underfoot and doesn’t get slippery. Just make sure it’s sealed properly to prevent water damage.

Stone
Limestone, granite, and marble are all great at resisting moisture, and they’re all extremely hardwearing. But they can get slick, and they’re up there in the price department. If you do have the money to install stone flooring (lucky you!), be sure to purchase a few bath mats to prevent falls.

Ceramic
Ceramic flooring is a bathroom favorite. It’s waterproof, fairly inexpensive, and available in a wide variety of looks, patterns, and textures. Check out the thousands of bathroom ceramic tile manufacturers here. There’s bound to be something that catches your eye.

Rubber
It’s not just for your workout room anymore. Because it is resilient, slip resistant, and quiet, it’s being seen in bathrooms more and more. Take a look at some of these possibilities.

Now what are your thoughts? Which flooring type would you choose?

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Related posts:
$200 DIY Bathroom Makeover: Installing Vinyl Tile Flooring
$200 DIY Bathroom Makeover: Wallpaper and Carpet Removal
Floor Tiling Basics
Radiant Heat Flooring
Eco-Friendly Flooring
Vintage Bath Design

$200 DIY Bathroom Makeover: The Room Reveal

Today’s the day I finally get to share with you the results of my $200, two-weekend bathroom makeover! Check out last Tuesday’s post for the lowdown on my self-imposed challenge. And then peruse the rest of last week’s posts for info on material selection, room prep, painting, and vinyl tile installation.

Before I show off the results, I wanted to share a few details about the finishing touches:

Cabinet Hardware
After the cabinets dried for a week, I attached the new door and drawer pulls—a quick and easy 5-minute task. Fortunately I saved the screws from the old pulls, because the trim on the top two drawers was thick enough that the new screws were too short. Saving the old, longer screws saved me from making another trip to the home improvement store, right.

Window Treatment
As I mentioned last week, I scored a fabulous deal on this great Spencer II Roman Shade from JCPenney. My bathroom window is a bit too wide and too shallow for an inside mount, so I went with an outside mount positioned just above the trim at the top of the window.

First I measured to determine bracket placement, ensuring there was enough space for the window hardware above the trimwork. After marking the placement for the first bracket, I predrilled holes and then used a screwdriver and mounting hardware to secure the first bracket to the wall, above. I did the same with the next two brackets, checking to make sure they were level before completely fastening them to the wall, right. The brackets on the window treatment fit over the wall hardware. Once the window treatment was in place, I extended the shades and marked where I could cut the excess length from the cords, right. Raising the shades again, I trimmed the excess cord and retied the decorative cord caps. 

The Results
I’m thrilled with the outcome of my little bathroom remodel project. I got a lot of mileage out of my $200 and was able to complete the project in two weekends. Are there additional changes I’d make if I had more money to spend on this room? Sure. A new faucet, medicine cabinet, and wall art would be nice touches. But overall I adore my revamped little bathroom. The colors are soothing and warm up the diminutive space. The vinyl tile floor is attractive, comfortable underfoot, and much more practical than the old carpet. The vanity cabinet appears almost brand new thanks to several inexpensive coats of paint and new hardware. And the double Roman shade looks lovely, softly filters light during the day, and provides complete privacy when both shades are lowered.

All-in-all, my self-imposed bathroom makeover challenge was a success! Now it’s time for you to tackle your own—and when you’re finished, we want to hear how it turned out.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Related post:
The Ultimate $200 DIY Bathroom Makeover
DIY Bathroom Makeover: $200 and 2 Weekends
$200 DIY Bathroom Makeover: Wallpaper and Carpet Removal
$200 DIY Bathroom Makeover: Wall, Cabinetry and Trimwork Painting
$200 DIY Bathroom Makeover: Installing Vinyl Tile Flooring

$200 DIY Bathroom Makeover: Installing Vinyl Tile Flooring

As I mentioned in last Wednesday’s post, the decision to go with vinyl floor tiles stemmed from my tight budget for my bathroom makeover. But ease of installation (and the good looks of the Armstrong vinyl tiles I picked) will have me returning to vinyl tiles when I make over our family bathroom.

Though they’re super easy to install, careful planning and a steady hand for cutting is crucial for a professional-looking outcome.

Here’s what I did:

Step 1: Remove the old carpeting.

Step 2: Prime the floor. Since I was tiling a bathroom, I followed the manufacturer’s suggestion and primed the floor with the same KILZ I used for the woodwork and allowed it to dry completely.

Step 3: Mark a grid. I measured two feet from the longest wall toward the center of the room and marked with a pencil. I did this again at the opposite end of the longest wall. Next, using a straightedge and pencil, I drew a line connecting the two points. (If you’re working in a larger room, use a chalkline to snap straight marks.) I did the same on an adjacent wall so that the lines formed a T, right.

Next I did a test placement of tiles using the T as reference lines. It was quickly apparent that I’d have too many cut tiles in visible spots so I adjusted my reference marks accordingly and did another test fit of all the tiles, left.

For more about planning tile placement, check out these tips from Hometime. They work for vinyl and ceramic tiles—you just don’t have to account for grout lines if you use vinyl tiles.

Step 4: Set the tiles. Start in the center of the room where you’ve marked reference lines. Check the arrows on the back of the tiles and align all tiles in the same direction. Work in quadrants from the center of the room out and install all the tiles in that portion of the grid before moving to the next. Make sure to firmly position each tile as close to the adjacent tiles as possible; don’t leave any gaps. Then just peel off the backing and press the tile onto the subfloor. Really, it’s that simple!

Step 5: Cut tiles as needed. You’ll likely have at least one row of tiles that require cutting. First mark where you need to make the cut. To do that, place a loose, full tile on top of the last full tile next to the wall where you need to cut. Place another tile flush with the wall so that it overlaps the full tile. Mark the loose full tile. This is your cut line. I positioned a straightedge on the cut line and used a utility knife to make the cut, right. Since I have wimpy arms and hands, it required several passes with the knife before the tile was cut through.

To cut irregularly shaped tiles I had the best luck making a paper template. Once I got the template to fit properly, I placed it on a loose tile and used the utility knife to make a freehand cut in the proper shape. Then I did a trial dry fit of the tile before removing the backing paper. In some cases I had to make subtle adjustments before the tile would fit as I wanted.

Voila—a new floor!

Tomorrow I’ll walk you through the finishing touches and do the room reveal!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Related post:
The Ultimate $200 DIY Bathroom Makeover
DIY Bathroom Makeover: $200 and 2 Weekends
$200 DIY Bathroom Makeover: Wallpaper and Carpet Removal
$200 DIY Bathroom Makeover: Wall, Cabinetry and Trimwork Painting

$200 DIY Bathroom Makeover: Wall, Cabinetry, and Trimwork Painting

With the unpleasant work of removing wallpaper and carpet (check out Thursday’s post for details) behind me, I was ready to paint.

Painting Walls
Once I picked paint colors (I went with an eggshell finish for the walls and a gloss for the woodwork), I followed my fellow Home Know-It-All Julie’s advice on tackling interior wall painting. Then it was time to move on to the cabinets.

Painting Cabinets
Mindful of my self-imposed time constraints of two weekends to finish my bathroom makeover, I tried to streamline the cabinet-painting process without sacrificing the end result. Here’s what I did:

Step 1: Remove hardware, doors, and drawers. I was able to eke out enough space in the tub and in front of it to place all of the doors and drawers surface-side up in preparation for painting. In drier weather I would have set them up in the garage, but with damp springtime conditions I didn’t want to risk extending primer and paint drying time.

Step 2: Clean all surfaces. I mixed a bit of dishwashing detergent in hot water and gave all the surfaces a good scrub. Any all-purpose cleaner should do the trick. Rinse with clean water and allow to dry completely.

Step 3: Sand the cabinets. Some folks suggest sanding the entire surface. To save time I just ran my fingers over the surfaces to find any rough spots and sanded only those places. If you have the time, sanding the entire cabinet will result in an even better finished surface.

Step 4: Prime the surfaces. Since only my immediate family ever sees this room, I decided to prime and paint the exterior surfaces only and skip the door and drawer interiors. For past projects I’ve always used KILZ as a stainblocker/primer. I was happy to learn it’s now available in a low V.O.C formula.

I used a foam applicator to brush primer on the cabinet base first. (Watch for drips!) Next I primed the faces of the doors and drawers. Here drips seemed to appear after I’d finished one drawer and moved onto the next, so I kept checking previously primed surfaces to smooth out any that appeared before they had a chance to dry. Even though the primer could be recoated in 30 minutes, I gave it overnight to dry before applying paint.

Step 5: Paint the surfaces. Just as with the primer, I painted the base cabinet first, applying a thin coat to minimize drips. I used a small foam roller to apply paint to the flat surfaces, right. Moving to the doors and drawers, I applied paint to the flat surfaces with the same small roller and then used a small foam applicator to work around the raised moldings. In all I had to apply three coats of paint to the cabinets and allowed several hours of drying time in between coats.

Step 6: Allow curing time. While most paint dries to the touch in a matter of hours, it can take a week or more for the finish to completely harden. (Check the label for the waiting time before you can wash the painted surface; that’s a good indicator of how long before the paint fully cures.) Though I reattached the cabinet doors and drawers about 12 hours after I applied the last coat of paint, I left them slightly open for two weeks so they wouldn’t stick.

If you’re planning to paint high-visibility cabinets—such as those in a kitchen—and want a glass-smooth finish, take the time to read these detailed pointers from This Old House.

Painting Trimwork
Sadly, the only trimwork in the bathroom is an extremely basic profile baseboard molding and a similarly basic window trim. Not having enough cash in the budget for new trimwork, I applied the same cabinet paint to the molding. Since I was going to install new flooring and had already ripped out the carpeting, I didn’t need to worry about protecting the floor. My concerns while painting the molding were achieving a nice finish and not marring the freshly painted walls. I started by using a plastic hand-masker tool to protect the walls, but the paint tended to seep underneath and onto the wall so I quickly abandoned that approach. Since a week had passed since I had painted the walls, I decided to tape them with painters tape. This technique gave me a crisp edge between the trimwork and the wall.

Check in on Monday to learn how to install vinyl floor tiles. We’re almost done—and then it will be time to see the great $200 bathroom makeover results!

Until Monday,
The Home Know-It-All

Related post:
The Ultimate $200 DIY Bathroom Makeover
DIY Bathroom Makeover: $200 and 2 Weekends
$200 DIY Bathroom Makeover: Wallpaper and Carpet Removal

$200 DIY Bathroom Makeover: Wallpaper and Carpet Removal

Yesterday I shared the product picks for my budget bathroom makeover (check out Tuesday’s post for details about my self-imposed bathroom renovation challenge). Today I’ll cover the least glamorous aspects of the room makeover: wallpaper and carpet removal.

Removing Wallpaper
I started by tackling the wallpaper. Since I was planning to ditch the carpeting I didn’t bother to protect the floor during the messy, tedious and lengthy process of removing the wallpaper. While some sources recommend using a scoring tool to enable a remover solution to penetrate the wallpaper, I’ve had bad luck with that approach in the past. In my first house, I scored right through the wallpaper into the drywall, leaving ugly marks across the entire wall—marks that multiple coats of paint couldn’t disguise.

So for this project I skipped scoring the paper. First I tested a small section of wallpaper and found that I could peel away the outer layer by hand without wetting the wall. I made my way around the room tearing off all the wallpaper, while the backing remained adhered to the wall.

This is where remover solution came in handy. I had great luck with DIF from Zinsser and, when my local home improvement store was out of DIF, Roman’s Piranha. Following manufacturer’s instructions, I combined a bit of the concentrated solution with hot water. Though the manufacturers suggest applying the solution with a sprayer, I don’t have one (and didn’t want to blow the budget buying one) so I simply wiped the solution on using an old rag. I slowly made my way around the room, saturating the entire wall with solution, then waited about 15 minutes for the solution to loosen the adhesive. Then, working in approximately 3x3-foot sections, I reapplied the solution and, using a scraper, scraped off the backing.

Since I was dipping the rag into the solution frequently, the remover quickly became gummy from adhesive, so I had the best luck by frequently discarding old solution and mixing new. The hotter the water I used, the better.

If you’re tackling a similar project, allow plenty of time for wallpaper removal. I spent more than half of the first weekend scraping every last shred of paper and adhesive from the walls. Once the walls were clear of wallpaper and adhesive, I wiped down the walls with a clean batch of solution followed by a rinse with clear water.

Tackling the Carpet
While the walls were drying, I shifted gears to the carpeting. Compared to wallpaper removal, carpet removal is quick and easy—though I felt it for days in muscles I hadn’t used in years. I checked each corner of the bathroom to find the easiest spot for me to pull up a bit of the carpet. Carpet is typically secured by carpet tack strips—thin pieces of wood with small, sharp tacks—nailed around the perimeter of a room. Removing carpet is first a matter of pulling it away from the tack strips. No skill or tools needed; just get a good grip on the carpet and tug. Since my bathroom is very small I didn’t worry about cutting the carpet into manageable strips. If you have a larger room, though, it’s easiest to handle the carpet this way. I did have to cut the carpet at the door between the bathroom and bedroom. I used a metal straightedge as a guide and a utility knife to cut through the backing.

Once the carpet was up I put on safety goggles and gloves before pulling up the padding. The padding was stapled to the subfloor and when I pulled the occasional staple would spring up. Most of the staples stayed in the floor until I pulled them out with a needle nose pliers. The few that wouldn’t budge I hammered flush into the subfloor.

With the padding and staples gone I went to work on removing the tack strips. Using a hammer and pry bar, I eased the strips away from the subfloor.

Now I was almost ready for the fun stuff. First though, I did have to patch a few nail holes and re-tape some drywall that hadn’t been properly taped the first time. For basic instructions for repairing a crack or retaping a drywall joint, watch this short, simple video from Easy2DIY.com. To patch nail holes, check out these easy steps from eHow or check out Home Know-It-All Katie’s pointers.

Stop back tomorrow to see the room starting to take shape with wall, cabinetry, and trimwork painting.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

DIY Bathroom Makeover: $200 and 2 Weekends

Armed with $200 and the motivation to upgrade my little bathroom, I hit the home improvement stores on a mission. I had a few basic goals I really hoped to achieve: remove the wallpaper and paint the walls, spruce up the dingy vanity, and replace the carpeting with a more suitable bathroom flooring material. If I managed to have any money left, a new window treatment would round out the makeover.

Wall color
I started with the walls, as that seemed the simplest place to begin and would inform the rest of my choices. Since the bathroom is accessed from the master bedroom, I needed a wall color that worked in the bedroom as well (which also suffers from a hideous circa 1960s wallcovering). I love our bed linens—a rich yet subtle combination of spicy browns, creams and golds—so I looked to them for inspiration.

My first trip to the store resulted in a pile of at least 30 paint chips in variations of creamy beiges and vanilla shades. What in the store seemed a jumble of similar hues became a fairly simple choice once I was home and spread the swatches on the bedding. Pale Sand 2 was the one. ($27.48/gal.)

Trimwork color
With the wall color chosen, I spread the paler color swatches around the wall color chip to choose the tint for the cabinetry and trimwork. I had high expectations for this color. In addition to coordinating with the wall color and the master bedroom bedding, the bathroom trim color was a test run for my kitchen cabinets, which I am also considering painting. Alabaster seemed the best bet for a warm, soft hue. ($31.98/gal.)

Cabinet hardware
Paint colors selected, I headed back to the store to peruse the selection of door hardware. Though there’s only one fairly small vanity in the bathroom, it requires seven pulls. I had to be careful so I wouldn’t blow my budget before I made it to the flooring department.

I’ve written and read enough home decorating articles to know that hardware is considered the jewelry of a room. But with two little boys in our family, even jewelry needs to be fairly basic to withstand their rough and tumble activities. As a counterpoint to the buttery color I picked for the cabinetry, I went with these (above) simple brushed nickel knobs. I like that in their simplicity they have a timeless appeal. At $2.57 per knob, definitely workable with my budget.

Flooring
I had always pictured my remodeled bathroom with a heated tile floor. Check out this information from the US Department of Energy to learn about the options for radiant floor heat. Unfortunately with my $200 budget, radiant heating wasn’t a consideration for this project. Still I was leaning toward ceramic tile as my floor covering of choice. It’s a natural pick for bathrooms. (Learn more about the top 7 bathroom floor picks here.)

I found several basic ceramic floor tiles for only $0.88 per square foot. I was almost sold … until I considered the total cost. My project would have required purchasing backerboard, tile nippers, snap cutter, thin-set mortar, spacers, grout, and a grout float. There goes the budget!

Instead, I made my way to the vinyl flooring aisle to check out vinyl tiles. Impressive! I went with these thicker tiles (above) that have a bit of texture and a more natural look. No one entering the room will mistake them for the real thing, but a pleasing look nonetheless. And still a bargain at $1.08 per square foot.

Window Treatments
Thanks to savvy choices for the walls, floor, and cabinets, I had enough money left in my budget to shop for a window treatment. I considered making one myself, but I’m not the best with a sewing machine and don’t really have the space to spread out all of the fabric anyway. So I prepped myself to be satisfied with a basic roller shade, but I soon discovered my window was too wide to find many off-the-shelf options.

I started an online search which resulted in lots of choices, but not many that fit my budget. Finally I found this Spencer double Roman Shade with a subtle scroll pattern that would add much needed texture and pattern to the room. Even better, it was on sale—almost a steal at $59.00 and no shipping.

Miscellaneous necessities: primer, $14.98; drywall tape, $5.96; filler, $2.98.

Project total: $198.17

Now that I had all the goods, the next step: room prep. Check back tomorrow for the lowdown on removing wallpaper and carpeting.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

The Ultimate $200 DIY Bathroom Makeover

In the nine years since I purchased my house I’ve dreamed and schemed about the ideal way to completely overhaul my tiny, carpeted (ugh!) master bathroom. I longed for a bigger space: One with a walk-in shower, deep soaking tub, heated tile floor, and two sinks so my husband and I wouldn’t vie for elbow room. A bathroom sans dingy carpeting, dusty blue floral wallpaper, and coordinating floral cabinet hardware.

(Unfortunately I ripped all the wallpaper out and threw it away before thinking to snap a picture. But here are the door pulls, a snippet of wallpaper from the adjoining bedroom, and the carpet, right.) Coordinated? Yes. My style? Definitely not. Practical? No way! Despite having a family bathroom almost to themselves, my two little boys frequently find their way into my bathroom. (Bathroom carpet + little boys = disgusting.)

The adjoining bedroom isn’t big, so expanding the bathroom would be tricky. Years spent studying small-space bathrooms and the configuration of the second floor of our house finally resulted in the perfect plan. It involved moving two walls—one between the master bath and a family bathroom, and another between the master bath and a hallway linen closet—resulting in a larger master bath and a slightly smaller adjacent family bath that would still provide plenty of space for our two boys. The smaller linen closet wouldn’t be a problem either—fortunately, the house has plenty of closet space. In the process, plumbing lines would have been moved.

Enter the current economic slump. My grand bathroom scheme would have cost tens of thousands of dollars. Not feasible right now … nor in the foreseeable future.

But I couldn’t stand the thought of living with a cramped, carpeted, dingy bathroom for another moment. Enter the new plan: a $200 DIY room makeover. Why $200? It was low enough to work with my recession-era budget yet ample enough that I figured with careful shopping I could make a real difference in the look of the room. And the two weekends? For the sake of family harmony, I determined that my husband and our little boys could entertain themselves for that length of time; any longer without Mom involved in weekend activities and we’d all be in trouble.

Interested in how my little remodeling project came together? Check back each day this week as I walk through my $200, 2-weekend DIY bathroom makeover challenge.

Need some inspiration for your own bathroom makeover? I love this one from Kohler and this one from HGTV. And when you get into the planning stage of your project, definitely be sure to check out the National Kitchen & Bath Association for helpful planning info.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Oven Buying Guide

If it were up to me, I’d have one of these stunning gas ranges from Viking. But it’s not up to me. My landlord and wallet make that decision, and they’re screaming “NO” so loudly you can probably hear it. 

So it’ll be awhile before I’m in the market for a new oven, but if you’re ready to buy one, be prepared: There are a number of decisions to make before you fork over the cash. To guarantee your oven fits your needs, ask yourself these five questions:

1. How much room do I have to work with?
If your kitchen is short on space, consider purchasing a wall oven that’s separate from the burners. Splitting the two features can give you more flexibility in layout and often make the workflow of your kitchen a little smoother.

Once you’ve narrowed down where the new oven will sit, it’s important that you measure the space as exactly as possible. Depending on the measurements, this could narrow down your options significantly.

2. How much interior space do I need?
Do you have a large family? Or do you often cook for a bigger group? Although ovens are available in only 24-, 27-, and 30-inch varieties, the interior cavity space of each may surprise you. So if you’re worried about fitting that 20-pound turkey in there, you better open it up and take a look for yourself.
Before heading to the store, measure your largest baking sheets. You’d hate to buy an expensive oven only to discover you also have to buy new bake ware because they don’t fit.

3. What type of baking/cooking do I do the most often?
Are you a big baker? Pay special attention to the multi-loop element in the bottom of your stove. A longer one with more loops will cook your cheesecakes, pies, and breads more evenly. And that can make the difference between good cinnamon rolls and out-of-this-world cinnamon rolls!

If you cook odd-size foods—like hams, turkeys, and roasts—check out how many rack levels there are. Many ovens only come with four levels, but you should look for an oven with five if you cook taller foods often.

Folks that spend a majority of their time in the kitchen should also consider purchasing a convection oven, which comes equipped with a fan to circulate heat more efficiently. This means you can cook multiple dishes without worrying about their place in the oven.

4. What features do I need?
Ovens can come with a variety of bells and whistles. Everything from a self-cleaning feature to electronic touchpad controls and a frameless glass door are available. Narrow down your must-haves before heading to the store.

5. Is the oven energy efficient?
You’ll get the most bang for your buck if you purchase an oven that uses the least amount of energy. The American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy can help you choose the greenest option.

With these questions answered, it should be a breeze picking out your new oven. Good luck!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Creating a Kid-Safe Bath

We’ve been ranting and raving about universal design ever since we started this blog.  That’s because—as this post points out—universal design is good for each and every person that enters your home. It’s an investment, but it’ll keep your home beautiful, functional, and accessible for years to come. So why haven’t you made the changes?

If you think you’re too young to start integrating design-for-all concepts into your home, think again. These elements not only keep you safe as you grow older, but they also keep your children out of harm’s way. So it’s smart to begin incorporating these ideas into your home today.

Although it’s likely your entire home will need a universally designed facelift, try starting in the bathroom, where children are more likely to take nasty spills and the return on investment is high. Here are a few changes—some minor and some major—that’ll make your bathroom safe for your littlest ones.

• Store a step stool under the sink or in the linen closet to make it easy for your tyke to reach the faucet and other items stored on the countertop.
• Install handlebars and grab bars on the bathtub and shower wall. Bars should be installed on the shower wall so your child can grab them while seated, and bars on the bathtub ledge should be placed so they’re easy to grab without making it difficult to get out of the tub. Try this handle from KidSafe ($11.99), which makes it easy to reposition the device as needed. If buying a new bathtub is within your budget, look for one with build-in handlebars, ledges, or a transfer bench.
• Keep soggy towels off the floor and remove tripping hazards by placing hooks within your child’s grasp.
• Replace two-lever faucets with single-lever versions. Single-lever faucets are easier for children to use because they can control water temperature and strength with one hand.
• Place a basket close to the tub to house bath toys and collect clutter.
• Lower the thermostat setting on your water heater to at least 120-degrees Fahrenheit to prevent burns.
• Store blow dryers, electric razors, and other electric devices away from water sources and your child’s reach.
• Medicine and cleaning products should all be kept in a locked cabinet. Look for medicine cabinets with lock boxes, like Robern’s C Series
  
• Place a non-slip mat inside the tub.
  
• Keep your floors rug-free to thwart slipping and tripping.
  
• Mount a tilt mirror above your sink, so your munchkins can adjust it to their heights.

And this is just for the bathroom! There are a bevy of other updates you can make to improve the design of your entire home. If you’re looking to renovate the kitchen, be sure to check out this post. And don’t forget to brush up on the entire universal design movement on AARP’s site.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Bathroom Ventilation 101

My apartment complex is reaching 100 years old. Do you know what that means? Concrete walls, steam heat, and no bathroom fan.

While I can live with—and even enjoy—the first two features, the last one kind of irks me. In the top left corner of my bathroom, there’s a small vent—connected to all the other bathrooms above and below me, mind you—that’s supposed to suck moisture out, but it just doesn’t seem sufficient. Plus, it’s open to everyone else’s bathroom, so plenty of unappreciated odors and sounds loft up from below.

It’s not likely—or even possible—that my landlord will install a ventilation system in our bathrooms, but most homebuilders would recommend it. If you’re lucky enough to have control over your bathroom amenities, here are a few ventilation tips:

• Most bathrooms in modern homes NEED a ventilation system. Today’s homes are built to be airtight, so forgoing a bathroom fan will only leave you with stagnant air and foggy mirrors. Over time, that built-up moisture will cause mold, mildew, and even health problems.


• Before purchasing a fan, you must know your bathroom’s measurements. Ventilation systems are rated in cubic feet per minute (CFM). The basic standard for a bathroom ventilation fan is that it must be able to change the room air eight times in an hour. In a typical bathroom with eight-foot ceilings, this means you’ll need one CFM per one square foot of bathroom space. If your bathroom measures 100 square feet, you’ll need a fan rated 100 CFM.


• Bathroom fans are also rate in sones for their noise level. The lower the number, the quieter they sound. And trust me, in order to get the most from your fan and use it as often as necessary, you should pay for the quieter model. Anything above a two is likely too noisy for the typical bathroom.


• A bathroom fan doesn’t have to be an eyesore! This article from Apartment Therapy proves it.


• Ready to install a fan? This article from This Old House can show you how to do it yourself.

If you’re like me—stuck with no fan and no chance of installing one—you’re not completely out of luck. There are still precautions you can take to prevent mold and mildew and keep your bathroom smelling fresh.

Leave the door open while showering and open any nearby windows if possible. Place an oscillation fan in the doorway facing outward to suck that moisture out of the bathroom and through the rest of your home or apartment. And clean your bathroom regularly to tackle any mold or mildew before it gets out of hand.

Until Monday,
The Home Know-It-All

Easy Ways to Increase Accessibility

The benefits of creating a universally designed home are many. Children; women who are pregnant; individuals who use wheelchairs or canes; and anyone who might have arthritis, limited vision or hearing, or temporary injuries such as broken bones can easily visit or live in a home that has been universally designed.

To make your home truly accessible to everyone, you might widen doorways and hallways, lower countertop heights, and tear out all of the carpet in your rooms. But creating a warm, welcoming home that’s designed to accommodate anyone who lives there or visits doesn’t have to involve gutting your house or starting from scratch.

Consider these easy, relatively inexpensive ways of improving accessibility—most of which enhance the appearance of your home in the process.

• Get rid of unnecessary rugs—they can be tripping hazards.
• Rearrange furniture in your living spaces so it is easy to move around and through furniture groupings. While you’re at it, de-clutter your rooms so unnecessary “junk” doesn’t get in anyone’s way.
• Use contrasting colors to distinguish doorways from walls and furnishings from floorings. If you’re thinking about repainting, consider making trimwork pop by painting the walls a dark hue and the trimwork white. If it’s time for new furnishings, opt for colorful hues that contrast with light-colored flooring or vice versa.
• Enhance the lighting (and therefore the visibility) in each room by using a variety of lighting styles—including overhead lights and task lighting such as lamps. Want to learn more? Bone up on kitchen and bathroom lighting basics, and don’t forget the necessity of safely lighting challenging areas such as closets and entryways too.
• Install paddle switches in place of traditional light switches—they’re easier to turn on and off. Or, better yet, install motion-sensor light switches so you don’t have to do a thing to turn on the lights when you enter a room or turn them off when you leave.
• Replace doorknobs with lever handles, which are easier to open.
• Install pulls in place of small knobs, which can be difficult to grasp, on cabinet doors and drawers with pulls.
• Swap out double-handle faucets in kitchens and baths with single-handle models that can be turned on or off even if your hands are messy or if you have limited hand strength.
• Find space for a rolling cart, moveable island, or even a basic table that’s lower or higher than your kitchen countertops to accommodate height differences in your family. If there’s room, include a stool for sitting when you’re tackling cookie decorating or other time-consuming tasks.
• Place towel hooks or bars in the bathroom so they’re easy to reach from the sink and in the shower.
• Turn down the water heater to 120 degrees Fahrenheit—it prevents the risk of scalding from too-hot water (and saves energy too!).
• Install small, low-voltage lights along the walkway leading to your front door so guests know where to step.

These ideas barely scratch the surface of what you can do to make your home accessible for everyone. Looking for more great ideas? Check out these general pointers or these kitchen-specific ideas.

And while you’re at it, don’t forget to take a peek at the book the team behind The Home Know-It-All produced on this very topic. It’s called Universal Design Ideas for Style, Comfort & Safety and you can buy it here. (It’s not shameless self-promotion—we don’t get a penny from the sale! We just promise the book contains plenty of helpful information for creating a stylish, comfortable, and safe home. And you can’t beat that!)

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Battling Backsplash Blues

If you read The Home Know-It-All very often, you’ve probably heard about my lovely salmon-hued backsplash tiles. They’re ugly. But I don’t have the cash to rip those babies out and redo the walls, so I’m stuck with them for now.

Or am I?

I was reading dispatches from the International Builders’ Show on the Consumer Reports Home & Garden Blog and came across mention of ACP’s Aspect Metal Tiles. So I decided to check them out.

It turns out that all you have to do to apply the 3x6-inch tiles is prime your wall (even if it’s tile!), then peel the tiles off their backing and stick them in place. The tiles are available in three colors: brushed stainless, brushed copper, and brushed bronze. According to the manufacturer, they’re made from a solid-polymer core covered with two-sided aluminum sheets—and they’re made from 60 percent recycled material, which earns them bonus points in my book.

As you’ll see if you visit the product website, you can also use the tiles all over the place—on a fireplace surround, on cabinets, you name it.

The tiles are available directly from the manufacturer and will be sold nationwide at Lowe’s by this summer.

By the way, if you’re looking for more backsplash ideas, how about installing your own tile backsplash like my parents did? Or bone up on backsplash basics.

Another great idea I was reminded of this weekend: If your backsplash is bare (read: not covered in tile like mine) why not add a coat or two of magnetic paint and adorn it with magnetic picture frames, spice jars, and the like? Functional, fun, and sure to cure the backsplash blues!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Quick Cabinet Upgrades

My cabinets are not in good shape. We’re talking drawers that don’t close all the way and cabinet faces that are peeling off in places. Not to mention the fact they’re dated as all get out. But I like the layout of my kitchen and the configuration of most of the cabinets. And I don’t have the cash to spend on redoing our kitchen right now anyway (really, who does?).

So I’m looking for ways to make do with what I have. Depending on the type of cabinets in your kitchen, these quick fixes might work for you too.

Deep-clean your cabinets. If your cabinets are in good shape and the style suits your taste, perhaps all they need is a good scrubbing. With some soap, water, and elbow grease you can chase away years of grease and grime and have your cabinets looking good as new in no time.

Replace cabinet hardware. This is one we’ve discussed before because it’s one of the easiest, least expensive ways to update your cabinetry. Learn about cabinet hardware options, then place an order!

Refinish ’em. Refinishing won’t work for me since the top layer of my cabinets is peeling away in places, but if your cabinets are in good shape, painting or staining them (after you clean them, of course) may be all that’s needed. And it can be done in a long weekend.

Reface ’em. One of my best bets for whipping my kitchen into shape without gutting it involves refacing my current cabinets with veneer. That means pulling away all that ugly veneer that’s peeling off now and replacing it with new stuff. My neighbors recently refaced their cabinets—which were a lot like mine—and added new wood cabinet doors. The transformation was amazing—and cost much less than a complete cabinet replacement. Learn how you can tackle refacing yourself from Rockler Woodworking and Hardware.

Have a BLAST. Cabinet BLAST, a new St. Louis-based company, offers an easy DIY alternative to refacing. The company’s custom-made decorative panels are easy to install and can be removed without damaging the cabinets, so even renters can spiff up their kitchens. Unfortunately, this option won’t work for me either. But if you had the right cabinets for it, I recommend checking out the copper inserts. Some of them are pretty cool. (And you can request free samples!)

Dream away. If temporary solutions won’t cut it, grin and bear those ugly cabinets for a while longer. And in the meantime, start saving your money and gathering ideas from books, magazines, friends’ homes, and more. Learning about the differences between stock, semi-custom, and custom cabinetry is a great place to start.

Until Monday,
The Home Know-It-All

Loft-Style Living

When my friend Katie first told me she was moving into a one-bedroom loft rather than the townhouse she had been considering, I thought she had gone crazy. Ever the traditionalist, I like my living quarters to have distinct rooms, and I prefer classic style over modern.

But my skeptical views toward loft-style living vanished the minute I entered Katie’s new place for the first time. Yes, it’s essentially still one large, open space, but it’s filled with function and flair. As you can see, Katie’s loft is a prime example of how cutting-edge contemporary style can be comfortable. Here’s how she did it:

Warm hues. Katie’s loft has concrete walls and floors. And although expanses of solid concrete have the potential to look bland, stark, and super-industrial, Katie’s loft is anything but. That’s because one wall is painted a warm, sandy brown color and large pieces of artwork adorn many of her other walls. Plus, her living room furniture—a black futon, olive green sofas, a soft area rug, and plenty of accent pillows—add character.

Flexible furnishings. The key to making the most of undefined space is to strategically arrange your furnishings, and to opt for portable furnishings whenever possible.

• When Katie desires a bit more privacy—or doesn’t want people staring at her closet/bedroom area, she uses a large, painted folding screen (a work of art in itself) to close off the space.
• A moveable stainless-steel kitchen island with a flat top for food prep and space underneath for storage rests in the center of Katie’s kitchen. When Katie needs more space, all she has to do is roll the island against the wall.
• Katie’s closet and living room lacked lighting fixtures when she moved in. So she purchased several floor and table lamps, which she can move about as needed.

Smart storage. Kitchen cabinet space is limited, so Katie relies on tall metal shelves to corral her dishes, cooking gear, and bar ware. Because all these items are exposed, artful arrangement is key—rather than randomly placing items on the shelves, Katie created an appealing display. And she took the same approach in the living room. Though her two massive bookshelves are filled with DVDs and books (this is one avid reader, folks), she incorporates decorative items throughout so nothing appears cluttered. Also in the living room: A pretty trunk and compact black filing system, which keeps papers and other small items out of sight. And in the loft’s only closet—a large space with only one long clothes bar, Katie customized the area with lots of open, stacked storage cubes to house shoes, accessories, and T-shirts, making her morning routine more of a breeze.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Preparing for Overnight Guests

Whether you’re hosting out-of-town family—or the occasional party guest who imbibed too much—get your home guest-ready with these tips and tricks:

• Clean and organize: Vacuum, dust, mop, clean the refrigerator and corral clutter as much as possible.
• Stay calm and collected. Forgot to clean under the bed in the guest room? Worry not. Chances are, your guests won’t even look under the bed. While it’s essential to clean before guests arrive, your family members aren’t there to criticize you. They’re there to spend quality time with you. Period.
• Stock your spare bedroom with clean sheets and blankets, plump pillows (cover them with a pillow protector) a stack of magazines or books, a snack tray, mirror, reading light, tissues, and alarm clock. Make the room even more home-y with framed pictures (especially of you and your guests) and a vase of fresh flowers, which you can buy inexpensively at the grocery store.
• Tidy up the bathroom—this is one room that should be spotless. Also make sure to have extra towels, washcloths, shampoo, soap, body lotion, disposable razors, and other toiletries on hand. HGTV dishes on the top 5 elements of a guest-friendly bathroom.
• Faced with a shortage of beds? Invest in good-quality inflatable air mattresses, or check out Real Simple’s top bed choices for overnight guests.
• Provide space for guests’ clothes by clearing out a couple of drawers or putting a luggage rack, bench, or clothes butler in the guest room (accompanied by hangers, of course).
• Download this houseguest worksheet, courtesy of Real Simple. It allows you to fill out emergency contact information and other vital information guests might need. Distribute one to each guest.

For other ways to make your home even more warm and welcoming, try these tips from Simple Mom.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

How to Build a Window Seat

Have I mentioned that both my kid sisters’ rooms have beautiful bay windows with cozy window seats? Oh, I have? Well, did I tell you I had no such thing growing up? Oh, I did?

I guess that’s the problem with being the oldest. My mother doesn’t feel a bit sorry for me—and I suppose you shouldn’t either. But you should know how fantastic window seats are. Not only do they let you take in beautiful sunsets and catch events happening in the yard, they also provide a spot for storage and perhaps even a bed for overnight guests. If I wasn’t so jealous of my sisters’ little nooks, I’d probably use them every second I was back home.

To cure my envy, I plan to have one of those snazzy seats someday when I no longer live in an apartment. And lucky for me, they’re pretty easy to build if a bay or picture window is already in place or if the window rests on a wall short enough that the seat can stretch its entire length without looking clunky. Unfortunately, without a suitable window, I’ll likely have to extend the exterior of the home to create a true window seat, and unless I turn into Bob Vila soon, I’ll probably have to hire a professional. But in case I do buy a home with the right window, I’ve dug up information on how to construct one myself.

Begin by measuring the window seat area and selecting size-appropriate, ready-made cabinets. Remove the shoe molding, build a frame pedestal with a center support for more stability, and secure the frame to the wall. Then, center the cabinets and drill them into the frame. Next, cut a piece of trim to create a toe kick and fasten it to the bottom edge of the cabinets. Cut a piece of shelving material and secure it with finishing nails. Finally, replace the shelving doors.

For a more in-depth explanation, Ron Hazelton tells you how to build a window seat with a hinged top for storage. Mother Earth News shows you how to create one with bookshelves on each side, and HGTV has a video of how to make one if you’re more of a visual learner like myself.
And, of course, if you don’t do the whole tool thing, there are ways to construct a window seat sans hammer and nails. Simply purchase a storage bench—like this one from Ikea or this one from Overstock.com—and place two large bookcases on each side. You’ll get the look of built-in furniture without the hassle of creating it.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

What We’re Loving: KitchenAid Artisan Series Stand Mixers

Photo courtesy of KitchenAid

This summer, my mother surprised me with an early birthday present: my very own KitchenAid Artisan Stand Mixer. And what a fabulous birthday present it was!

Some people covet fancy ranges, furniturelike islands, or custom cabinetry for their kitchens. Not me. For as long as I can remember, a KitchenAid Stand Mixer has always topped my kitchen wish list. Why? So that I could whip up brownies, cookies, cakes, and other tasty treats just like my amazing great-grandmother who instilled in me a love of baking from an early age. (Our specialty? A tried-and-true classic: Chocolate chip cookies.) She was a chef extraordinaire who used her KitchenAid mixer so often that she went through three of them in her 103-year-lifetime.

But that’s not the only reason I harbor a slight obsession over this timeless appliance. I love its functionality, too. The mixer’s tilt-head design makes it easy to access the beater and bowl. (I’ve found this especially comes in handy when you’re pouring a messy can of Hershey’s syrup into the bowl.) Mine also has 10 mixing speeds, a multipurpose attachment hub, and 9-cup Flour Power, meaning it can produce 9 dozen cookies (though I haven’t needed to use its full capacity yet).

Photo courtesy of KitchenAid

I also can’t resist its dazzling array of eye-catching colors, from classic white or black to modern tangerine and reef blue. My mother opted for basic white, knowing that it would match any kitchen of mine in the future. But if you’re sold on red, there’s a mixer to meet your fancy.

I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the extras, too. The mixer comes with a flat beater, a ‘C’ dough hook, a 5-quart stainless-steel bowl, and a wire whip, but you can also purchase all sorts of attachments and accessories to increase its versatility. The options? A ravioli maker, an ice cream maker, a can opener, a citrus juicer, a sausage stuffer kit, and much, much more. But don’t just take my word for it. See for yourself here. I’d love to be able to churn out my own ice cream and sorbet at home (in case you haven’t guessed, I’ve got quite the sweet tooth), so the ice cream maker would be perfect for me.

Chances are, I won’t wear out three mixers in my lifetime. But I do plan to squeeze every ounce of use out of my machine as possible. So as I leave you for the day, you can bet I’ll be thinking about what to make next.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Wine Racks Galore!

My roommate is somewhat of a wine connoisseur, so when we moved to our new apartment, you can guess the first piece of furniture she bought. Yep, a wine rack. And all in all it makes a pretty nice addition to our humble abode, storing our bottles at the optimal horizontal angle (it keeps the corks moist to prevent air from entering the bottle and spoiling the wine) and positioning our glasses at arm’s reach.

Vintage Wine Rack
Photo courtesy of
Howard Miller

Ours is wrought iron with a glass top, but wine racks come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and materials. For example, this console from Howard Miller ($1,500) is wood with a black coffee finish. The top even slides apart to expose a granite prep-surface, and two cabinets on each end offer abundant storage.

If you don’t have the floor space for a furniture-style rack, opt for one that mounts on the wall. This rack ($52) found at A+R Global Design is cleverly designed to suspend six wine bottles of virtually any shape and size. The best part: It goes up with just two screws. I think I could even handle that!

Wall-Mounted Wine Rack
Photo courtesy of
A+R Global Design

But if you need your wall-mount rack to hold more than just six bottles, I’d go for one of Vintage View’s holders ($61.95). They’re simple, but hung side-by-side they look pretty snazzy. In fact, my mind is already racing with possibilities in my apartment. (However, I think I need more than one bottle of wine to really put them to good use.)

To keep a chilled bottle of wine at your beck and call, consider a refrigerated console. This one from Franklin Chef is a bit pricey at $2,030.95, but it’s well worth it if you like playing host. Not only does it keep your wine nice and cold, it also makes room for cans of soda and bottled water—a sure hit at any party!

And, of course, no Home Know-It-All post is complete without a do-it-yourself option. Try this one from ReadyMade and fashion your rack from a box spring mattress.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Water-Saving Showerheads

Evolve Roadrunner.
Photo courtesy of Evolve.

As much as I enjoy saving energy, I enjoy saving water even more. And wouldn’t you know it? By saving hot water, you save energy as well, which makes water-saving showerheads the be-all and end-all of my happiness. (Okay, that’s not necessarily true, but I love doing my part to save our planet.)
    So you can only imagine my excitement when I happened upon this showerhead (pictured right). Evolve’s Roadrunner eco-friendly showerhead uses 1.59 gallons per minute. (The typical showerhead wastes as much as twice the amount of H2O as that, spewing nearly four gallons of water per minute.) And guess what? The Roadrunner comes with Showerstart technology, which senses when water is warm and pauses the flow. No longer do you waste water waiting for your shower to warm up! With this showerhead, you save nearly eight gallons of water for every five minutes of shower time.

Delta Water-Efficient Showerhead
Photo courtesy of James A. Stepp,
Lexicon Multimedia

Because showers account for nearly 17 percent of your daily water usage, according to the American Water Works Association, low-flow showerheads are a great way to decrease water consumption.
Check your showerhead for a rated flow imprinted on the side. If the number is not below 2.5 gpm, you’re in need of a replacement. And don’t think for a second that you’ll be sacrificing water pressure. For example, this water-efficient showerhead from Delta (pictured left) comes with H2Okinetic Technology, increasing the size of water droplets to maintain water pressure but using only 1.6 gpm. Others, called aerating showerheads, mix air in with the water to maintain pressure, and another variety is designed to pulse, creating a massage-like effect.

Low-flow showerheads are available in a variety of styles for as little as $10 for a basic model to more than $200 for a luxury version, but over time, they all pay for themselves because of reduced water bills.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

How long is food safe when the power goes out?

Recently, a reader asked this very important question: How long can food stay in the refrigerator when the power goes out?

It’s one I wondered about myself last winter when our power was out for almost 24 hours because of a particularly bad snow and ice storm.

Whether you lose electricity because of bad weather, a utility company error, or something else altogether, the thought of losing an entire refrigerator’s worth of perishable food is none too pleasant.

First and foremost, when your power goes out do not open the fridge or freezer if you can help it. The temperature in an unopened refrigerator will stay cold enough that your foods will be OK for a couple of hours. And a freezer that is full can—if it’s not opened—stay cold for as long as 48 hours. (And even if it’s only half full, everything should stay frozen for up to a day.)

(By the way, in order to have something to eat when the power is out, it’s a good idea to always make sure you have food in the pantry that doesn’t require refrigeration and that can be eaten cold or grilled.)

According to The American Red Cross, perishable food should not be held above 40 degrees for more than 2 hours. If the power outage is short, your food is probably fine. But if it’s out for longer than 2 hours, you’ll need to take action.

If you can obtain ice, pack your food away in coolers until the power is back on. If that’s not an option, you’ll have to hope the power comes back on soon enough that your food is safe—or fire up the grill when you find out it’s going to be a while and start cooking!

Once the power does come back on, if it hasn’t been longer than 4 hours, use a quick-response thermometer to check the internal temperature of food such as milk, meat, and leftovers—if it’s above 40 degrees, you better toss it. Some items are safe at temperatures over 40 degrees, including fruit, butter, peanut butter, raw vegetables, cheeses, and catsup. For a list of other items that are probably OK after a power outage, visit MissouriFamilies.org.

If the power comes back on within 24–48 hours it’s likely your frozen food is safe. But it’s a good idea to double-check, because if items near the door have started to thaw out you may need to throw them out. When examining food, MissouriFamilies.org recommends checking for ice crystals. If the food (aside from seafood) still contains ice crystals, refreeze it as quickly as possible and write “refrozen” on it so you know to eat those items as soon as possible.

If the food has thawed and you don’t see any ice crystals, it’s time to throw it away.

The American Red Cross offers some terrific, specific information about what to do with perishable items, including a detailed chart broken down by food type. So be sure to visit their website.

And remember: When in doubt, throw it out.

Until Monday,
The Home Know-It-All

Cool Coffeemakers

There’s nothing wrong with my current coffeemaker. In fact, I kind of like it. It’s bright red to match my toaster and tile floor, and it makes a pretty fine cup of coffee. But all in all, it’s just a normal machine, and right now, I’m in the mood for something bigger and better. I’ve got my eye on a few other—slightly more elaborate—varieties. What do you think? Which one would you choose?

Aerobie
Photo courtesy Aerobie

Aeropress ($25.95)
This crazy-looking contraption brews coffee in only 30 seconds, fully immersing the coffee grounds to get the best flavor. Soaking the grounds thoroughly ensures a less bitter, less acidic cup of joe, and the strong air pressure shortens the brew time.

Bodum Santos
Stovetop Vacuum
Coffeemaker
Photo courtesy Bodum

Bodum Santos Stovetop Vacuum Coffeemaker ($69.95)
This one boggles my mind. Placed on a stovetop, the Santos coffeemaker brews coffee backward. The water boils in the lower pot and rises through a filter to the upper pot, which is filled with coffee grounds. Once the water is nearly all in the top one, it’s removed from heat, and the water flows back through the filter again. How cool is that?

Le Cube D180
Photo courtesy Nespresso

Nespresso
Okay, I know this is a brand and not a specific coffeemaker, but I just can’t choose—they’re all fantastic. I’m particularly fond of the Le Cube D180, though it’s slightly more expensive at $299. But it would accent the red features in my apartment almost as superbly as my current one. Plus, it has a milk-frothing device, so I’d never have to go to an expensive coffee shop again. And did you know that Nespresso also makes a few machines specifically for the office?  Check out the Nespresso Business Solutions. Print out a few copies of the plan, and maybe leave a few “subtle hints” around the office for your boss.

Until Thursday*,
The Home Know-It-All

*Note: The Home Know-It-All is cutting back on posting through the end of September to spend some time whipping her home into shape. But check back for another post soon!

Movable Kitchen Islands

By now, dear readers, you’re probably used to me complaining about my tiny kitchen. Today, though, I’m actually going to mention one of its positive aspects (gasp!): A mobile cart. A hand-me-down from my grandmother, the cart is not the most stylish thing (it’s just got a basic wood finish), but I don’t know what I’d do without it! It’s compact, so it fits right against the back wall without eating up much floor space. And it holds my microwave, cookbooks, and array of cereal boxes, freeing up much-needed space in my cabinets.

Providing a blend of open and closed storage (and helpful countertop space too), mobile carts and islands make even the smallest kitchens more functional. And because they’re on wheels, you can position them wherever you prefer. Plus, they come in a variety of styles and sizes to suit your needs and decor. Another bonus: They’re much more friendly on your wallet than a full-scale island.

If you’re thinking about buying a portable island for your kitchen, arm yourself with these about.com considerations before shopping. Here is a sampling of carts and islands to launch your search:

No frills. Sometimes simple is better. Take the sleek IKEA UDDEN cart, for instance. With its understated profile, it’s about as basic as carts get—yet it’s still big on storage, featuring a countertop and two stationary shelves that are perfect for storing pots and pans. Plus, it’s ultra-sturdy and easy to clean—so if you accidentally dribble tomato sauce on it, you can simply wipe it up. At $79.00, it’s practically a steal.

Photo courtesy Totally Bamboo,
Bar Car item 20-3620

Life of the party. Like to entertain? The circular Totally Bamboo Bar Cart ($1,000.00) is the perfect party essential. This compact, storage-packed bamboo cart features a wine cubby (which holds as many as 18 bottles!), a hanging stemware rack, and side shelves for corralling even more bottles and glasses. A little utility drawer up front is just the right size for holding coasters and corkscrews.

Under cover. If you prefer to stash kitchen items behind closed doors, islands such as The Kitchen Cart from Target ($429.99) are perfect for you, because they blend well with your existing cabinetry. This particular model features a durable stainless-steel top and cottage oak sealed finish (it also comes in a black finish too, if that’s more your style). Decorative molding and chrome metal pulls lend a decorative touch. 

Do it yourself. Feeling handy? You can build your own movable island with these instructions à la Popular Mechanics. This petite, counter-height island features drop leaves and a mix of open and closed storage. And you can paint it to match your decor.

Of course, this merely skims the surface of all the portable kitchen carts and islands out there. For more options, check out sites such as kitchensource.com or choppingblocks.com. What styles do you prefer?

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Green Shower Cleaning

There are lots of reasons for my anal nature—at least if I thought awhile I could come up with something. But for my obsession with keeping the shower clean, I blame that entirely on my mother.

As far back as I can remember, Mom insisted that my sisters and I keep the bathroom clean. Her biggest pet peeve? Streaky showers. And you know what she made me do every time I got out of the shower? Wipe it down with a washcloth and a dry towel. That’s a lot of work for busy girl, and truthfully—sorry, Mom—I just didn’t see the point in it.

Since getting my own place and having my own shower to clean, however, I’ve realized its benefits. (Yes, Mom, you were right.) I’ve learned that wiping the shower down with a towel every time you exit it is the first step in green shower cleaning and virtually eliminates the need for those toxic after-shower cleaners. Just keep an extra towel and washcloth on your towel holder and grab them after you’ve tried yourself off. A little time here will save you tons of time later.

When it comes time for the big clean once a week—or eek, once a month—start by concocting your own shower cleaner. Learn how by visiting this clean, green site. Not only does it offer recipes for shower cleaners, it also shows recipes for oven cleaners, shoe cleaners, and much more.

Most homemade shower cleaners are made of three basic ingredients: vinegar, salt, and baking soda. Vinegar helps break down fatty acids, clearing your drains of the gunk that causes back ups, and salt is great at removing tough stains. (Sprinkle half of a grapefruit with salt and rub it around the tub’s edge to remove rings, and you’ll see what I mean!). Baking soda is a natural deodorizer and will make your shower shine after cleaning.

If you don’t have time to make your own, purchase a non-toxic cleaner like one of the ones mentioned on this previous blog post. And to read reviews on most available green cleaners, go here.

Once you’ve got your cleaner, you’ll need to grab your supplies—and this could be the most important step in green shower cleaning. With the right supplies, you can eliminate the need for harmful chemicals. You’ll need a rag—no paper towels here, please—and a white sponge like this one from 3M. You may also need a microfiber cloth for polishing and a corner brush for grout.

Work top to bottom, left to right, spraying your homemade or non-toxic chemical and scrubbing with your sponge. If you have shower doors, read this article from Real Simple to learn how to clean those. After scrubbing everything with your sponge, dry it all off with your rag. And voilà, that’s one happy, clean—and of course, green—shower!

Do you have any green cleaning tips? Go ahead, share!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Wet Bars

Brinx Entertainment Sink;
Carafe filtered water faucet.
Photo courtesy of Kohler Co.

Every time you host a party your guests end up in the kitchen. And that’s fine and good—except when it’s not. With limited seating, a layout that’s not conducive to mingling, and few entertainment options, the kitchen isn’t always the best gathering spot—despite its proximity to food and drink. So what’s a host to do? Move the food and drinks outward by installing an entertaining hub like a wet bar, of course!

A wet bar is an area, separate from the kitchen, with a sink and oftentimes a refrigerator and storage area as well. It allows your guests to help themselves without forcing them to crowd the kitchen. Plus, it lets you designate the party area and eliminates the hassle of running back and forth refilling drinks all night.

Cordial Cast Iron Entertainment Sink;
Simplice Secondary Faucet.
Photo courtesy of Kohler Co.

With a wide range of wet bars available, you can install yours virtually anywhere in your home—as long as it has access to plumbing. Whether you want one in the basement, living room, or even the bedroom, there’s one for you. And if you choose a custom built model, you can design it anyway you see fit.

Much like a kitchen, you can choose the cabinetry, finishes, and countertop to match your style. Though the sink is typically smaller, it often comes with a higher neck to make filling glasses easier. Take a look at Kohler’s entertainment sinks to get some ideas. 

If custom cabinetry is out of your price range, consider buying a finished bar. Great Home Bars offers a wide variety, still allowing you to match your design style. And if you’re particularly handy, try making one yourself. Ask the Builder offers a great explanation to get you started.

Once you’ve got your wet bar in place, you only need to keep it well stocked and—with any luck—well used.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Cool Microwaves

Whether I’m heating up yesterday’s Pad Thai or melting chocolate bars to use in a batch of homemade brownies, my microwave gets a lot of use. A lot. And I don’t really consider my affinity for microwave cooking to be a sign of laziness, either. Because microwave cooking is speedy, it helps retains more vitamins and minerals in my favorite foods. Plus it’s energy efficient. But my personal favorite reason for sticking food in the microwave? Whenever I use the oven on a hot summer day, the heat overwhelms my tiny kitchen—it’s a problem that can be avoided with the microwave.

Without a doubt, microwaves are a mainstream appliance. But today’s microwave ovens are cooler—and more varied—than ever. See for yourself:

All in one. If you want a microwave that multitasks, look no further than Sharp’s R-55TS Specialty Microwave Oven, which toasts, bakes, grills, and microwaves.

Mean cuisine. Lukewarm food is a thing of the past, thanks to the Panasonic NN-SN657S, which comes with Panasonic Inverter Technology. Special features such as a pulsing delivery of low microwave power keeps food temps at a consistent level without overcooking it (it also means that if your gravy is done before your turkey, it won’t get cold before you serve it). And its One-Touch Sensor Cooking automatically calculates cooking times.

Meals on wheels. Don’t have time to prepare your instant oatmeal before you leave for work? Just do it in the car. Yes, I’m serious. The 12V In-Car Microwave takes the concept of meals on the go to a new level. This compact, mobile model is powered by a 12V cigarette lighter socket, but you can also hook it up directly to your car battery. It’s currently sold in the UK, but you can have it shipped overseas.

Living large. Consider larger models, such as this Siemens’ 30-Inch Built-in Microwave, which has 2.1 cubic feet capacity so that you can cook larger foods (a plus if you’re serving a crowd). Another bonus: If you don’t want your microwave to stand out, you can purchase an easy-clean Integrated LiftDoor, which allows your microwave to blend in with other appliances.

Roll with it. Microwaves used to come in two basic forms: countertop and built-in models. But now you can also heat your food in a microwave drawer, so that you don’t need to remove the food when you want to turn or stir it, thanks to the drawers’ convenient reach-in access. Check out a few of these Sharp Insight Pro Microwave Drawer Oven models. Best of all, microwave drawers integrate neatly into your countertops or kitchen islands for a seamless appearance.

Custom cooking. Finally—a microwave that takes the guesswork out of food prep. The Salton Beyond microwave comes equipped with 4,000 barcodes so all you have to do is scan the barcode and voila—the oven cooks your meal to perfection. What if your favorite treat isn’t pre-programmed? The microwaves “Learn” function allows you to store your own barcodes too.

What cool new microwaves have you been eyeing recently? Share here.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Common Kitchen Hazards

I know, I know—you’re well aware of the hazards lurking in your kitchen. Even if you do your darnedest to prevent anything from happening though, a refresher course on kitchen safety never hurt anyone. Heck, it could even help you—maybe there’s a peril you’ve never heard before. So here’s a list of common kitchen dangers to keep your eyes peeled for.

Slicing and Dicing
Perhaps I’m particularly clumsy, but knives pose a big threat to my wellbeing. I just always seem to slip and slice my finger. Try preventing this mishap by keeping your knives sharp. A sharp knife will cut through your veggies or meat in one clean motion, while a dull knife takes more effort and increases the chance you’ll cut your fingers. And if you drop your knife, never, ever, ever try to catch it. Speaking from experience, every bone in your body will urge you to catch the falling object, but resisting that urge can save your appendages. For more knife safety tips, check out this article form the Chef’s Corner.

If You Can’t Stand the Heat
Ever since I set the toaster on fire in first grade, I’m terrified of starting a blaze in the kitchen. Needless to say, I take fire safety pretty seriously. First, never leave a toaster unattended because the latch might not work, igniting the Pop-Tart stuck in the hot burner. It’s also a good idea to get your gas appliances professionally checked for gas leaks and to always keep a fire extinguisher handy. If you’re heating oil or fat, pay careful attention to temperature. Grease fires are known to start fast and spread quickly. And if you’re a Nervous Nancy like myself, consider purchasing an automatic fire suppression system, like this one from Integrated Fire & Life Safety Solutions.

Poison Control
It’s best to leave the chemicals outside of the kitchen, but if that’s not possible, be sure to place them on the lowest shelf, beneath any food you plan to eat. That way if a chemical drips, it won’t be into the potatoes you plan to make for dinner next week. Not sure how safe a certain chemical is? The Home-Air-Purifier will help you figure it out. And of course, if anyone in your family happens to ingest a chemical, dial Poison Control immediately.

Non-Stick Negatives
The Environmental Protection Agency’s Science Advisory Board considers Teflon—the coating on pans that keeps your eggs from sticking—a likely carcinogen. Though experts aren’t sure the amount of toxins received from a sturdy Teflon pan can hurt a human, they can kill your pet bird. And I say if it’s not safe for Tweety, it’s not safe for me. Might as well switch to stainless steel or cast iron pans instead—especially if that Teflon on your pan is flaking off.

It’s a Wrap
That plastic wrap isn’t as innocent as it looks. A chemical plasticizer called diethylhexyl adipate—commonly found in plastic wrap and plastic storage containers—soaks into your food every time you heat a dish covered or stored in the stuff.  Studies done on animals link the chemical to hormonal abnormalities, but—like Teflon—experts aren’t convinced humans consume enough of it to be harmed. Once again, I’d rather be on the safe side—if you would too, look for green plastic wrap instead. Or reheat food in reusable glass containers to avoid plastic altogether.

If you have any other kitchen safety tips I should be aware of, send them my way or leave a comment here to share them with readers.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Growing Houseplants in the Bathroom

With all that running water and steam, the bathroom is notorious for being one of the most humid spots in the house. And usually, this humidity gets a bad rap, ’cause it can breed mold, mildew, and other nasty problems if you’re not careful.

But it can also be a good thing—especially if you’ve got a bit of a green thumb. Yep, that’s right—many houseplants thrive in humid conditions, making them perfect for the bathroom. (Hmm. I never dreamed that my apartment’s lack of a ventilation fan could be a plus.) Pair the humidity with good light, and you’ve got yourself prime growing conditions.

Try these varieties:

African violets. In our old home, my mother gave one bathroom a violet theme—simple violet-print wallpaper accented by lavender towels and a pot of African violets, of course. Want that pretty purple hue in your bathroom? Here are a few pointers: Hydrate the violets with room-temperature water—African violets are not fans of cold water. And when watering, don’t let them sit in draining water for too long, or root rot might occur. If your bathroom lacks natural light, opt for fluorescent lighting instead. Learn more.

Cast-iron plant. I don’t normally think of houseplants as being tough. Hardy, yes; durable, yes; tough, no. That was until I learned about cast-iron plants, which are much appreciated for the fact that they can survive in disagreeable conditions (i.e. low light, irregular water, temperature extremes, you name it). “Tolerant” might be another word to describe cast-iron plants. So whether you have a brown thumb or travel frequently (or are a bit forgetful, like yours truly), this may be the plant for you. See for yourself.

Peace lily. Talk about pretty and practical: The peace lily’s abundant white flowers are sure to brighten any bathroom (their glossy dark green foliage adds interesting texture too), and they’re also low-maintenance. Even though they prefer brighter conditions, they can adapt to a bathroom with low light—and they’ll literally provide a breath of fresh air. That’s because these purifying plants remove carbon monoxide and formaldehyde from the air. You’ll find more pointers on peace lily care here.

These plants also grow well in the bathroom:

• Aloe vera
• Bamboo
• Boston fern
• Flamingo flower
• Nerve plant
• Pothos
• Spider plant

When selecting a plant for your bathroom, you’ll want to consider light and water requirements. To ensure a successful match, consult these tips from the University of Illinois Extension. Want to know more about bringing houseplants into your bathroom in general? Browse this Atlanta Journal-Constitution article.

(Oh, and I’d be remiss not to remind you: If you’ve got curious youngsters or pets around the house, you’ll want to make sure you don’t pick poisonous plant varieties.)

Happy houseplant growing!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Stock, Semicustom, and Custom Cabinetry

If you’re in the market for some new cabinetry for your kitchen or bath, you’ll have to make a number of important decisions about style, materials, price, and more. One of the first choices you’ll likely make? Determining whether you want stock, semicustom, or custom cabinetry.

What’s the difference?

Stock cabinetry is a budget-friendly option that offers cabinet units in standard sizes and styles. When stock units arrive at your home, they are either fully assembled or ready to assemble, which makes DIY installation easier (and makes professional installation pretty darn speedy too, of course). You can find great cabinet finishes and quality materials with stock cabinetry, but you won’t find the special sizes, features, and styles that are available with custom cabinets.

Semicustom cabinetry offers more design flexibility and is often built with better materials than its stock counterpart. You can modify available cabinet sizes to fit your needs, and additional features allow you to create the storage components that you want. You will pay more for semicustom cabinets than stock models, however.

Hunting for some terrific stock or semicustom cabinetry? Check out the selection available from KraftMaid, Merillat, Thomasville, and Schrock. And remember you can find some great options from IKEA, Lowe’s, or Home Depot too.

Custom cabinetry allows you to get exactly what you want: a cabinetmaker builds the units in the size, shape, configuration, material, and finish you choose. With custom cabinetry, you can have cabinets built to fit your tastes—and every last pot, pan, and cookie sheet you own—to a T. Prepare to get out the checkbook though, because custom cabinets can get pricey. And you’ll have to be patient, as custom cabinet construction can take a couple of months to complete.

Think custom is the way to go? Check your local Yellow Pages or search online for custom cabinetmakers near you.

And remember—there aren’t any hard and fast rules that say you have to outfit an entire kitchen with only stock or only custom cabinets. So feel free to get creative. Mix and match custom pieces (or even freestanding furniture) with stock cabinets to create a kitchen or bath storage setup that best appeals to you.

Learn more about the stock versus custom debate from Hometips.com.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Quick and Easy Kitchen Makeovers

As an apartment-dweller, the closest I’ve come to a kitchen renovation is reading about them. But even if you are fortunate enough to have your own home, a full-scale kitchen renovation can be quite time-consuming and costly, even rendering the space unusable for quite a while (and of all the rooms in the house, not having a kitchen ranks high up there in terms of inconvenience). If you’re willing to go the route of a major kitchen renovation, fabulous—the results can add serious value to your home. But if you’re simply looking for a few quick ideas to breathe new life into a tired kitchen without much hassle, you’ve come to the right place.

Paint the walls. There’s no doubt about it: A fresh coat of paint goes a long way in reviving a room. Even just an accent color on one wall can make a huge difference—I know. I had the wall behind my sink painted a soft blue hue, and it instantly brightened the entire space, making it feel a little more like home and a little less like an apartment. If you’ve got kids—or are looking for a creative idea—consider chalkboard paint. Before you break out the paint cans, however, read up on interior painting basics. And because the kitchen can get a little messy with everyday wear and tear, you’ll also want to check out HGTV’s tips for painting the kitchen.

Are your walls currently covered in dingy old wallpaper? There’s no better time to remove it. Removing wallpaper can be tricky, though, so you’ll want to arm yourself with tips in this post.

Cabinet facelit. Deep-cleaning your kitchen cabinets can make them look as good as new—especially if they’ve been subjected to years of grease and grime. But if you want to take it up a notch, a fresh layer of paint or wood stain can rejuvenate spent cabinets too—and refinishing your cabinets is something that can be done in a weekend. Learn how to paint kitchen cabinets like the pros, a la HGTV. Or, if you’ve got the budget for it, you can replace the cabinet doors altogether.

Replace cabinet hardware. One of the most inexpensive ways to score a new style in the kitchen is to spruce up your cabinetry with decorative new pulls or knobs. Get the scoop on cool cabinet hardware.

Update your kitchen lighting scheme. A good, efficient lighting scheme can put the fun back in using your kitchen again. For example, consider undercabinet lighting to shed some light on food prep (and those killer countertops). Or add a decorative boost with some snazzy pendant lights. Learn more about kitchen lighting basics here.

Install a new backsplash. A new backsplash can make a big impact in a small space. But before getting down to business, make sure the wall can support the weight of your chosen tiles (or other materials). Installing a ceramic tile backsplash? Review these step-by-step instructions courtesy of Lowe’s. And if you haven’t already, see how Julie’s parents installed a mosaic tile backsplash in a weekend, all for less than $200. Pretty sweet, huh?

Have any ideas for quick and easy kitchen makeovers? You know what to do—share them here.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Dishwasher Buying Guide

Whirlpool GU300XTS. Photo courtesy of Whirlpool.

Have I got a dishwasher for you. Whether you need one to hold your daily dirty dishes, fit large baking bowls, or contain all the plates your large family racks up, there’s a dishwasher made just for you.

Besides checking for essential features—specifically, multiple spray arms, a high-temp cycle, an internal water-heating element, and built-in food disposal—you should match your dishwasher to your specific needs. Here are a few recommendations:

Washing for One
If you’re all by yourself or live with just one other person, you don’t want to waste water by running your dishwasher before it’s full. But you also don’t want to have to wait forever to get clean dishes. Consider Kenmore’s double-drawer dishwasher. You can wash each level separately, so you don’t have to wait forever to use that bowl again.

Baking Queen or Host with the Most
Sometimes loading the dishwasher is like playing Tetris—you have to get everything arranged just right to get it all to fit. If you regularly bake or entertain, you often use plenty of large bowls and platters. Getting those items to fit in the typical dishwasher can be tough, so you may want to purchase a dishwasher with adjustable racks or a large-capacity tub—like Whirlpool’s GU3000XTS. It has a space-saving horizontal motor and fold-down tines to maximize wash space.

Smeg Horizontal Washer.
Photo courtesy of Smeg.

Accessible Option
Reaching down into a dishwasher’s bottom shelf can be difficult if you have back problems or special needs. Opt for a horizontal dishwasher rather than a vertical one. Smeg recently introduced a model that measures 36 inches wide and 21 inches tall. It’s ideal for someone who loads the dishwasher while seated because it keeps everything at eyelevel.

GE PDW9280LSS.
Photo courtesy of GE.

Large Family If your home’s full of family members, you’ll gain the most from an oversize dishwasher. Fit all your dishes in with multiple levels, fold-down tines, and removable racks. Try GE’s PDW9280LSS, a family-friendly dishwasher that can wash up to 16 place settings at once.

GE Spacemaker.
Photo courtesy of GE.

Tight Space
Living in tight quarters? (Don’t feel bad—I am too!) If I were you, I’d choose an 18-inch wide washer instead of the usual 24-inch version to save some space. I especially like >Kenmore’s 14402 and GE’s Spacemaker.

Bang for Your Buck
If you’re looking to get the most for your money, choose a dishwasher that offers multiple amenities but skips the frills. Kenmore’s 13742 has a stylish exterior, a large tub, and several other features, but it doesn’t have a metal interior to save you some dough.

All About Quiet
After a big meal, it’s nice to sit back and relax. Do so without having to listen to a clunky dishwasher by choosing a model with heavy sound insulation. Check for quiet pumps, smaller wash arms that direct water away from the exterior, and insulation around the motor. Bosch seals its motor in the base and suspends it on a rubber hammock rather than bolting it to the tub. Check out the Integra model to see how it works.

Have any other needs you want your dishwasher to meet? Let me know, and I’ll do my best to find one for you!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Transitional Bath Design

Photo courtesy of Kohler Co.

There are those who love traditional bath design (myself included). And then there are those who swear by contemporary style. But what if you want to combine the two styles?

That’s where transitional bath design comes in. Transitional design blends the best elements of both styles—think classic meets contemporary. And when it comes to specifically describing the style, I think Design Basics, Inc. custom home designer Marshall Wallman says it best in this article: “In transitional design, you take the stuffiness out of traditional style and the coldness out of contemporary style and mix them together.”

In the bathroom, this translates into finding a happy medium between overly elaborate and ultra-sleek fixtures. When in doubt, think simple—excessive ornamentation looks stuffy and dated. Transitional style is timeless, incorporating an almost color-less color scheme with dark browns, vanillas, and taupes for a clean yet classic look. The absence of colors and ornamentation allows textures to stand out, giving your bath even more depth (which is a bonus if you’ve got a small bath). Unlike contemporary style, which relies on straight lines, transitional style blends curves and straight lines for visual appeal. Learn more about transitional style courtesy of HGTV.

But that doesn’t mean transitional bath design is limited to just a couple looks. It’s quite the opposite, actually. This bath takes a more elaborate approach with its Old-World mirror and sconces while this one has a bit more of a contemporary feel, thanks to it’s gorgeous blue glass vessel sink and simple faucet. I especially like the rich, furniture-style cabinetry and glimmering tile mosaic backsplash wall in this master bathroom. See other examples of how transitional bath design can make itself at home in your bath.

What kinds of bath design are you itching to learn more about? Let me know, so I can post about them soon!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Inspiring Bath Blogs

Recently I’ve posted about great kitchen design and gardening blogs. Now it’s time to move to another key part of the house: the bathroom.

If you’re looking for inspiration for your own bath design or hardworking information on bathroom repair, let these great blogs be your guides:

The Daily Tubber
Happy Shower
Bathroom Décor Tips

Now, I realize this list is short. And that’s where you come in. What great bath blogs did I miss? I know there are plenty out there, so share your favorites here!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Inspiring Kitchen Design Blogs

I recently wrote about some great gardening blogs, and now it’s time to move on to another one of my favorite home topics: the kitchen.

There are a slew of blogs out there touching on everything from cool kitchen products to kitchen design advice from the pros. Here are some of my favorites:

Appliancist
Dwell Kitchen Blog
K+BB Green
The Kitchen Designer
Kitchen Design Notes
Kitchen Gadget Geeks
Kitchen Sync
Trendir Kitchens

What great kitchen blogs did I forget? Share some of your faves with me!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Working with Small Kitchens

Cooking and baking always seems like an adventure in my kitchen—and it’s not because I’m a wild chef. Rather, I have to make every square inch of space work as hard as possible. That’s because I have two tiny slabs of countertop to work with (and by tiny, I mean tiny—one slab is just wide enough to hold my jar of cooking utensils). Even my dining room table outside the kitchen gets in on the action, holding cookie sheets and pans as they cool.
Luckily, there are ways to maximize even the smallest of kitchens. It just requires a little more creativity—and patience. If you own a home, you could change your kitchen’s layout so it’s more accommodating. See how this outdated kitchen gained new life—and more space—with an altered floor plan. Or you could invest in smaller appliances. By tearing down a wall, you could open up a small, cramped kitchen to a living room, dining room, or other space, making the kitchen look even larger. If you have the freedom to remodel, read this Money magazine story first to see how you can enlarge your kitchen without putting a huge dent in your finances.
But if you’re an apartment-dweller like me, remodeling may not be an option, but you can still create a more efficient kitchen. Try these ideas:

• Organize the contents of your cabinets to squeeze the most function out of them—drawer organizers or over-the-door hooks can be a worthwhile investment. Read up on more space-saving storage ideas. While you’re at it, toss or donate items you’re not using.
• Use the space above your cabinets if they don’t stretch all the way to the ceiling (though you’ll want to make sure you have a good step stool around). And store belongings in stylish bins to conceal bulky or unattractive items.
• Make the most of unused wall space by mounting hooks on pegboard to hang pots and pans so they’re at arm’s reach. Or use wall-mount shelves to artfully display items.
• Invest in a small utility cart that functions as a small-scale island—this helps keep clutter off countertops so you can use what little space you do have for food prep.
• Corral cooking essentials in decorative containers.
• Decorate with light colors to create the illusion of space—and create even more impact with a few bold accents. Even though three of my kitchen walls are beige, my pale blue accent wall adds a much-needed burst of color. Learn more about using color in a small kitchen.
• Maximize light. If you have any say in material selection, opt for light-reflective surfaces such as stainless steel, which bounce light around the room.

For good space-saving ideas, try these suggestions from Oh My Apartment and Chris Casson Madden. And if you want to see some really innovative small-space kitchen options, check out Treehugger.

If you’ve also got a small kitchen, how do you make it work in your favor?

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Kitchen Lighting Basics

When my parents built a new home, I remember the constant back and forth with the lighting specialists to determine the best combination of lights for our house. With three types—ambient, task, and accent—to choose from, it can get more than just a little confusing (even if you’re not starting from scratch like my parents were). And lighting the kitchen—where the right lighting is key for cooking, cleanup, and more—can get downright frustrating. Here are some basics my parents wish they’d known before they tackled kitchen lighting.

First, examine the space itself. How does natural light affect it? What areas should be highly lit? And what’s your design style? Once you determine that, decide what type of lighting makes sense in your space—most likely, you’ll need a combination of ambient, task, and accent lighting.

Ambient lighting is used to illuminate the entire space without focusing on a specific area. Every room needs some type of this lighting, and it usually comes from the ceiling. Recessed lighting is the most common because it’s simple and easy to clean. It can also be updated by changing the trims for a new style or finish. This Old House offers a few DIY installation tips, but if your skill level isn’t advanced, it’s probably best to hire an electrician.

You can also provide ambient light through surface mounts—like pendants or chandeliers—or track lighting. Track lighting is a great way to meet all your lighting needs. It’s easy to add to, easy to aim, and it’s fairly uncomplicated to install (Lowe’s offers a great explanation). The variety of track lighting available makes it easy to match your design scheme. I love these brightly colored lights for a more modern look and these brass lights for a touch of vintage style—both are from CSN Lighting.

Though ambient lighting is vital, task lighting is just as important in a kitchen. (You want as much light as possible when dicing vegetables or stirring a steaming pot.) For safety, task lighting should eliminate distracting glares and provide extra light just where you need it. Surface mounts can also do this. Install pendant lights over a kitchen counter or a chandelier over a cooktop. Green Culture has a wide range of eco-friendly pendants and chandeliers, so you’ll not only save your fingers from the butcher’s knife, you’ll also save the environment.

To top it all off, use accent lighting to highlight a specific area of your kitchen. Draw attention to artwork by installing picture lights. (Be sure to choose ones with UV and heat protection if you’re concerned about paint damage.) Emphasize fine china with cabinet lights, or illuminate counterspace with under-cabinet lighting. With the wide range of accent lighting available, it’s easy to match your lighting needs with a fixture.

Before you purchase or install any lights, check with a builder or electrician to make sure ductwork, insulation, and ceiling height aren’t going to limit your options. And don’t forget the bulbs. Make sure you purchase the correct wattage, and splurge a little for the CFL bulbs. (You’ll thank me next month when you’re not climbing a ladder to replace a bulb in your ceiling lights.)

And once the kitchen is out of the way, it’s time to shed light on the rest of your house. For bathroom tips, check out Bathroom Lighting Basics.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Bathroom Fixtures: Repair or Replace It?

To fix or not to fix? That is the question when it comes to a leaky toilet, a cracked sink, or a stained tub. Bathroom fixtures can be pricey to replace, so it makes sense to research repair options before you rush out and buy a new one. Then again, sometimes those lavatory troubles aren’t worth fixing—only a new fixture will do. Here’s how to figure out the best option for you:

Toilet. If your toilet is clogged, running constantly, or leaking, opt for repairs before you look for a new model. Toilet repairs are often DIY friendly and can be taken care of in a relatively short period of time. Have a broken flush handle? Replacements are available for as little as $5.
Do It Yourself offers repair info for all of your needs. Or try Dixieline’s suggestions. If your toilet tank is cracked, however you’ll need to buy a new tank. And in some cases, a constant leak means the toilet base is cracked and needs replaced. In either instance, unless your toilet is relatively new, it’s probably smart to buy a new toilet—today’s models are much more efficient anyway, so you’ll likely end up saving in the long run on reduced water bills.

Sink and faucet. If your leaky sink originates from the plumbing beneath the sink or the faucet, you can likely tackle repairs depending on the severity of a problem. Learn how to repair a faucet or leaky pipes in no time. A clogged drain might be a problem too—in that case, here’s what to do . Or, when it’s time, you can replace the faucet yourself. If your sink is cracked (which can occur pretty easily with a porcelain sink), you won’t be able to fix it—but you can replace it yourself.

Tub. If your bathroom woes originate from your tub, first check out the pointers offered at Home Tips, which cover fast fixes for porcelain rust (hint: try lemon juice and salt!), faulty pop-up bathtub stoppers, fiberglass bathtub scratches, and more. If a leaky or damaged bathtub spout is the problem, get help from this Reader’s Digest article. Or if scratches or chips are a problem, before you buy a replacement you might want to consider bathtub refinishing, a project that can be done to a damaged porcelain, fiberglass, or cast-iron tub on your own or by a pro. It involves priming, sealing, and painting your tub with a durable, glossy top-coat.

What repair or replacement woes have you experienced? Any options you’d like to know more about? Let me know! And while you’re at it, check out the toilet repair woes faced by Shirin at Things That Go Thump In My Head—I’m faced with a leaky toilet now, and when things go wrong, it’s always nice to have someone to commiserate with!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Installing a Tub Surround

If your tub/shower enclosure has seen better days, why not give it an update? One of the easiest, cost-effective ways to replace your dingy enclosure is to purchase and install a shower/tub surround kit.

Why panels? These handy kits generally come with three or five pieces. If your enclosure is perfectly square, a three-piece kit (with a back panel and two side panels) is the way to go. But if you’re dealing with crooked walls or walls that aren’t plumb, the five-piece kit (with a back panel, two corner panels, and two end panels) offers more flexibility.

Not only are these panels water-resistant, they’re also easy to clean and will almost instantly revive your bathroom—what’s not to love about that? And they come in a variety of materials, from solid surfacing to pressed fiberglass. Though thicker panels are usually more expensive, they’re more stable and easier to work with.

Prep work. Before getting to work, protect the bottom of your tub from dings and scratches with a heavy cloth. If your current shower interior is solid, flat, and in good structural condition, you can install the panels over the existing material (just be sure to give it a good cleaning first, and scuff tile with sandpaper so it’ll better grip the adhesive). For drywall, cut out damp sections and replace it with a moisture-resistant version. If you’ve got a tile surround, simply stick loose tiles back in place with ceramic-tile adhesive. But if several tiles are loose, just remove them altogether and replace them with moisture-resistant drywall (learn how to remove tile here).

Now comes the tricky part: removing the showerhead, faucet, and spout—as well as other accessories such as wall-mounted shelves or soap dishes. Get started with this Popular Mechanics diagram.

Using a tall piece of cardboard, make a template of the side of the tub with the bath fixtures. Measure the exact locations of the faucet handles, showerhead, and tub spout. Cut holes in the cardboard, hold the cardboard up to the wall to make sure the holes align with the fixture placements, and mark the locations on the surround panels.

(Working around windows can be challenging. See what homebuilder/remodeler Odus Sweetin recommends for framing windows.)

Installation. Measure your walls and trim your panels accordingly. Following manufacturer’s instructions, apply the adhesive, then attach the panels to the walls and let them dry thoroughly. Replace the hardware, and seal joints with caulk. For more detailed instructions, check out Popular Mechanics and This Old House. Or watch this step-by-step video, courtesy of HGTV.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All