The Home Know-It-All

Favorite Salt Uses

With winter upon us, we in the midwest can expect plenty of icy roadways covered in salt. And in that form, salt is a mixed blessing—great for de-icing and traction, but bad for the metal on our vehicles. When it comes to household applications, however, salt is pretty much always a handy mineral. Here are a few of our favorite uses for salt. 

Sink De-Clogger
A strong salt-water solution can reduce odors, eliminate minor clogs, and cut down on grease buildup. 

Flower Freshener
Blending a little salt and baking soda with the water in your flower vase can help to extend the longevity of your bouquet. 

Coffee Pot Cleaner
Mixing salt, water, lemon and ice together makes a powerful, all-natural cleaning agent that won't distort the flavor of your coffee after cleaning and doesn't leave soap residue. 

Brass, Copper, and Pewter Polish
Dissolve one teaspoon of salt in a cup of distilled white vinegar and stir until it becomes a paste. Apply to the metal and let sit for 15 minutes. Rinse with warm water. 

Do you have a great way of using salt around your home? Be sure to visit Morton® Salt’s website to share your favorite "salt secret." You may win a $1,000 AMEX gift card!

Until next time, 
The Home Know-It-All

Finding New Closet Space In An Older Home

Though the word "renovation" inspires thoughts of colossal expense and time, it doesn't need to be such a dramatic undertaking. A renovation can be as simple as converting an unused space into something more useful. One of our editors here at The Home Know-It-All recently undertook the goal of creating more closet space in her home by finishing an otherwise unutilized under-eaves crawlspace. 

Above: Though the space is completely unfinished and poorly lit, it's structurally ideal for a large closet. 

Above: With the simple addition of an under-cabinet light, a plywood subfloor, and birch-veneered plywood on the walls and ceiling, the room is already visibly transformed. 

Above: Simple decorative trim, an attractive cedar panel, carpeting, paint, and hardware (such as eye-hooks and a closet rod) ready the space for easy-access storage. 

Remember, you could do this, too. By looking at unused space through a creative lens, you can convert it to a pivotal part of your home.

Until next time, 
The Home Know-It-All

 

 

Keep Your Refrigerator Smelling New

My wife and I just moved out of our apartment, which brought with it the necessity to venture into the long-neglected recesses of our refrigerator. It quickly became clear that we had not been especially diligent in keeping our refrigerator at its cleanest or best-smelling. 

It's easy to lose track of how long food has been refrigerated, and it doesn't take long before the resulting smells seem ingrained in the very composition of the refrigerator. Here are a few easy tips for getting rid of those unwanted odors without replacing your fridge or using harsh chemicals. 

Conduct a thorough cleaning. 

Empty your refrigerator and scrub the interior with a mixture of water and baking soda. This should remove any trace of forgotten spills or food bits that have slipped through the cracks and gone unnoticed. Though it's a difficult space to reach, cleaning underneath your fridge will have a significant effect on smell too—fans under the fridge can bring outside odors in. 

Freshen the air. 

There are several ways to try freshening your fridge's air. One is to place activated charcoal in a small bowl at the back of your refrigerator to start pulling residual smells out. The traditional open container of baking soda is a tried-and-true method that works well too. Though unorthodox, you may even consider putting a small amount of clean, unscented kitty litter in the fridge as a means to absorb smells. Vanilla extract and fresh coffee grounds can also absorb unwanted scents when placed in the fridge. 

Toss the old food. 

Though it's difficult to remember the expiration dates on everything that enters your fridge, it's worthwhile to try. If something has gone bad or you suspect it has passed its prime—pitch it! The unpleasant odors in the fridge come from decomposing food—not something you want to keep alongside your future meals. 

Find out how long your food stays safe when the power goes out.

Until next time, 

The Home Know-It-All

After the Holiday

All good times come to an end. Unfortunately, that includes the end of the holidays and enjoyment of your tree. Your tree has most likely started to have a brown tint to it and the fragrance isn't as noticeable as it was when you first set it up. You begin wondering if there might be more needles on the floor than on the tree.

Well, it is time to take off the lights and decorations.

But what to do with the tree?

Many communities have disposal programs. Some offer curbside pick for a short period. Other communities have drop-off locations for disposal or recycling. Recycling programs will involve 'chipping' the trees for use as mulch or compost.

If you just don't want to part with the tree, you can set it up in your yard as a combination feeder/shelter for birds and other wildlife. Eventually you are going to have to let go and dispose of it, though.

Until later...
The Home Know-It-All

Green Cleaning Tool Kit

If I had to bet, I'd guess you have multiple cleaners, several scrub brushes, and at least one roll of paper towels lurking underneath your kitchen or bathroom sink. Am I right? If so, you're definitely not alone, but you're also wasting precious money on needless products and hurting the environment in the process. But don't worry, there's an easy solution to this problem.  

Add these ingredients to your grocery list and replace those toxic chemicals and tree-hogging brushes and paper towels today: 

1. baking soda
2. white vinegar 
3. salt 
4. liquid soap 
5. spray bottles 
6. microfiber towels 
7. toilet bowl brush 
8. newspaper 
9. bucket 
10. broom and dustpan  

Believe it or not, that's typically all you need to clean your bathroom or kitchen. With these ingredients at the ready, you can concoct one of the green cleaning recipes available here or on The Daily Green. You can also prevent poisonings, protect the environment, and free up a little space under your sink. 

Until next time, 

The Home Know-It-All 

Spruce Up Your Siding

The exterior siding of your home is both a great first impression and a tasteful declaration of your personal style. Because of exposure to the elements, however, siding can lose its sheen rather quickly. If your siding is starting to look run-down and dingy, you can take steps to clean it and repair it—no matter if it’s aluminum, vinyl, or stucco—without having to drop dough on a full-blown replacement.  

Cleaning Your Aluminum Siding
Aluminum siding can dull over time because it gathers mildew. Wash your siding with a low-pressure power washer to restore its former glory, but be careful: When the pressure gets too high, water can seep beneath your siding and rot underlying wood. If mildew is already growing on your siding, mix a little bit of bleach with your water in a bucket. If the mildew covers a large area, spray it down with a pressure washer, but if it’s in a small area give it some attention with a scrub brush. For a step-by-step process of how to give your aluminum siding some luster, check out How to Clean Stuff.

Washing and Repairing Vinyl
Vinyl siding is almost maintenance-free, making it an attractive option for most homeowners. However, it’s still a good idea to give it a wash every once in a while. You can either go the pressure washer route or do it the old-fashioned (and eco-friendly) way with a hose and buckets. The latter approach requires a little elbow grease, but it’ll save water and prevent any possible rotting underneath your siding. It also makes it easier to focus on areas where there may be mildew or other mold problems. Check out this tutorial on how to patch it up yourself without having to hire a pricey professional.        

Stucco Siding
Stucco is one of the most durable siding options available (it typically lasts anywhere from 50 to 100 years!), and many older neighborhoods prominently feature homes adorned with it. Because of its bumpy and uneven surface, dirt tends to get lodged in stucco’s nooks and crannies. Experts recommend taking steps to wash stucco exteriors at least once a year. Make sure not to get too close to the surface when you’re hosing it down, as it can chip under high pressure. Stucco is also difficult to repair, so you may want to hire a professional. But for the intrepid DIYer, here’s a how-to-repair guide courtesy of This Old House. 

Until next time,
The Home Know-It-All 

Clean Your Dryer Ducts

Go green, save money, and prevent fires in one fell swoop by vacuuming out your dryer ducts at least twice a year. Clogged dryer ducts reduce airflow, causing your clothes to take longer to dry, gobbling energy, and raising the temperature inside your dryer. But that’s not the worst of it—lint-filled ducts can also cause fires. In 1998, the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission estimated that clothes dryers were associated with 15,600 fires, 20 deaths, and 370 injuries.

Keep your family safe and go green by vacuuming your dryer ducts regularly. Start with the lint trap inside your dyer. Using a wet/dry vacuum with a hose, suck out any visible lint inside the trap. Then disconnect the duct from behind the dryer. Insert the vacuum’s wand into the hose and remove as much lint as possible.

While you’re cleaning your dryer, it’s also a good idea to inspect the exhaust hood on the exterior of your home. To make sure everything is working properly, inspect it while you have clothes in the dryer. The flaps should be moving smoothly, without any restrictions.

Spot a problem? Have a qualified service technician come take a look at it. Or for a more thorough inspection, have the technician clean the dryer ducts and the inside of the dryer for you.

Until next time,
The Home Know-It-All

Closet Organizing Tips from the Pros

To kick off spring-cleaning season last year, we dished out all sorts of closet organization ideas. And now that it’s that time again this year (I admit it, I’m playing catch-up on my spring cleaning), we have even more ideas to help you whip your closets into shape. I called up Tim Woollen, owner of Closet Tailors in Madison, Wisconsin, for expert advice. Here’s what he had to say:

Q: What’s an inexpensive idea for corralling all those clothes and accessories that tend to pile up in the closet (and sometimes on the floor)?

A: Use lots of storage bins and baskets to contain out-of-season clothing. Clear plastic bins—which you can buy for a very low cost—are really effective, and you can use them year-round to rotate your clothes and accessories. They protect your clothes until you’re ready to use them again. Plus, you can easily see what’s in them and can label them for quick identification.

Q: What’s an easy clothes organization technique that people might not know about?

A: I like this neat little trick: Rather than hanging clothes with the hanger going forward, hang them with the hook facing behind the rod (so that the open end of the hanger faces you). As you wear clothes and eventually put them back in the closet, hang them forward as you normally would. This allows you to determine which items you don’t wear, so it’s much easier to de-clutter your closet.

Q: What must-have closet organization products do you recommend investing in?

A: A valet rod is a tried-and-true item that’s really helpful. It pulls out, allowing you to conveniently hang dry-cleaned clothes or tomorrow’s outfit. Also purchase belt racks and tie racks. I see so many closets where these items are strewn all over the place, and custom racks are a good way to keep these items at arm’s reach. These items are often overlooked, but they really help a lot of my customers on a daily basis.

Q: What’s the best way to improve accessibility and function within your closet?

A: Consider the space you’re working with. When organizing their closets, people often tend to overlook how they’ll feel when they’re actually using the space on a daily basis. For example, if you’ve got a walk-in closet, consider where you’re hanging items. It’s a good idea to situate clothes and accessories toward the back of the closet so your shoulders don’t brush against them when you’re in there. This creates a more open space so you don’t feel cluttered and stressed.

Also, rather than stacking clothes in tall piles, stack them 2-3 items high at most so you can easily reach them and so they don’t topple over.

Q: What’s the best way to make the most of a non-walk-in closet with little space to spare?

A: If you have a single pole and shelf that extends left to right and don’t intend to change it, you can use a cascading hanger (right) that allows you to hang your items, and then unhook one side to minimize the space needed on a regular basis.

If you want to get the most out of your closet, I recommend taking out the existing shelf and pole and replacing them with as much double hang space and shelving as you need to best meet your needs. For about $200-$400, you can typically get a new and improved closet for yourself. See the illustrations (below) for reference—you gain 11 more feet of shelf space plus two additional feet of hanging space with the closet system.
 

Q: Any other pointers to share?

A: More people are incorporating small chests of drawers into their closets. It keeps items easily accessible, and it’s a great way to gain additional floor space in the bedroom.

Thanks for sharing your closet organization tips and tricks with readers, Tim. I can’t wait to try these ideas in my own closet (I’m finally making the switch from winter to warm-weather clothes).

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Community Cleanup Day

Who says spring cleaning has to focus exclusively on the indoors? With Earth Day less than a month away, now is the perfect time to round up family, friends, and coworkers, and take your cleaning skills outside. Whether you pick up litter or plant a community garden, Mother Nature will benefit from enhanced beautification efforts. Look for these kinds of community cleanup opportunities in your areas:

Free recycling. To safely dispose of spent appliances, electronics, compost, hazardous household waste, and other hard-to-recycle items, take advantage of complimentary garbage and recycling services offered in several communities this time of year. Some programs pick recyclables up from your curb; with others, you drop the items off at specified sites.

River/stream cleanup. Grab a trash bag and don your work gloves and grubbiest clothes to corral debris that’s collected in a nearby stream or river. Want to take part in an organized event? Check to see if the National River Cleanup, sponsored by American Rivers, has planned a cleanup in your area. Don’t see any? Here’s what you need to know to get one started in your neck of the woods.

Great American Cleanup. Take part in Keep America Beautiful’s Great American Cleanup, which is the nation’s largest community improvement program. The program takes place each year from March 1 through May 31 all across the country. Last year, participants collected 86 million pounds of litter and debris and cleaned 144,000 miles of roads, streets, and highways—talk about making a difference! To find a local affiliate, click here. Or start one yourself.

And don’t forget to check out all the Earth Day events in your area. After all, what’s a better way to honor this eco-friendly holiday than by picking up litter along your local trail or even planting a new tree in your yard? For more information, check out the Earth Day Take Home Kit from the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Organize It: Pantry

A well-stocked pantry is like heaven to any foodie. It’s where you find all the treasures for whipping up a great last-minute meal: olive oil, legumes, rice, a random can of pineapple, dark chocolate (my favorite, of course), you name it.

At the same time, an unorganized pantry can be a nightmare for a cook, self-professed foodie or not.

Pantry is, of course, a loose term. I don’t have a specific cabinet or a separate closet that’s called the pantry in my kitchen. I do have plenty of cupboards filled with foodstuffs though. So whether you have a designated pantry or just a bunch of messy cupboards, these tips can help whip your main food storage area into shape in no time—so you can focus on cooking, rather than an avalanche of chip bags and macaroni boxes that inevitably tumble on you every time you reach for the sugar.

Take a hard look.
What is long past date and should be tossed? What has been sitting there so long there’s no way you’ll ever actually use it? Donate what you don’t need (boxed mashed potatoes? the sixth can of pinto beans when you don’t even like pinto beans?) and sort the rest into tidy piles by food type.

Clean.
Once you’ve removed everything from your shelves, give your storage area a good scrubbing. Odds are, dust, dirt, and random spills have made your shelves messy. Now’s the time to change that so you can start with a clean slate.

Get rid of excess packaging.
Once you’re finished cleaning, go back to that pile of food on the floor or table or wherever you put it. Remove items that are packaged unnecessarily from bulky boxes, bags, and the like so they aren’t hogging space. From now on, plan to do that right away when you come home with something you purchase in bulk.

Get the right containers.
I love the square and rectangular clear plastic containers with the snap-on lids that I use to store cereal and baking supplies. They keep things fresh, help me avoid unwanted spills, and make it easy to spot what I need at a glance. Plus, transferring things to reusable containers helps you stack and organize easily. See the magic the right containers can work over at Curbly. Another lovely idea: store your grains in glass jars—although then you probably won’t want to hide them away where no one can see them!

Consolidate.
Now that you have those containers in place, what can you combine? Those three boxes of almost-gone pasta can all be dumped into one container. (Will anyone really mind if they get a few shells in their rotini?)

Find the right organizers.
Basics like chip clips and baskets may be all you need to whip your pantry into shape. I use baskets all over the place in my kitchen—a big one for bread items, a smaller one to corral all my spices, another for tea bags and such. However, sometimes it’s worth it to invest in more serious organizational tools (particularly in a big pantry). Whether you have the cash to spend or simply want to dream, I love what’s available for pantry organization from Williams Sonoma. Of course, all you really need are the myriad organizational tools available from The Container Store. And I’m also impressed with the selection at places like Target.

Group like items.
If you have room, designate certain shelves for certain items. You might have a shelf for snacks, another for baking, one for beverages, one for breakfast. Which items get used the most? Place them at or near eye level. Or if you aren’t dealing with floor-to-ceiling shelves, at least group similar items in the same area. Then get even more specific. Within your area for breakfast, for instance, place all the boxes of cereal together, the oatmeal options next to one another, and so on. Easy easy easy.

Make sure you can see everything.
“Out of sight, out of mind” may be cliché, but it’s also true. Position pantry items so they are easily visible, otherwise you’ll forget all about them.

Label!

I don’t own a label maker but have often contemplated investing in one. If you have one (or have been thinking about buying one too), put it to good use by labeling your pantry shelves. That way, if certain members of the family forget where things go, they’ll have an easy-to-spot reminder.

Take inventory.
If you really want to get organized, you can’t beat this free, downloadable pantry inventory sheet from Organized Home. Once you download it, be sure to check out the article on pantry organizing on the site—it’s loaded with great info on building a functional pantry.

Learn more.
If you’re interesting in getting more great pointers on pantry organization, I have a few more links for you. Check out the great tips at About.com and from professional organizer Lea Schneider. While you’re at it, be sure to take a peek at a great real-life pantry reorganization from I’m an Organizing Junkie. It shows how easy it can be to get things in order, even if you don’t have the cash to spend on tons of nifty organizers.

Looking for more ways to get organized in the kitchen? Next stop: your recipes.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

P.S. Don’t forget there’s still time to win in our first-ever giveaway! All we ask in return? A great cleaning tip or two.

My Apartment: Before and After

As I mentioned in a couple of other posts, I just moved to a new apartment—and I love it. It took a few coats of gray, yellow, and teal paint and a couple inexpensive decorating tweaks, but the space is exactly what I wanted: light, sun-filled, hip, and relaxing.

Want to see it? Below are before and after photos to give you a glimpse of all the work that went into making it my home. We’ll post a few projects and design ideas used in my apartment in later posts, so if you’re curious how it was accomplished, keep an eye out for those!

Living Room


Dining Room

Kitchen

Bedroom

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Moving Big Furniture

I spent this past weekend moving to a new apartment, and boy, oh boy, was it hard work. By Sunday night I could barely lift my arms, let alone my eyelids. And I had help! Lots of it, thanks to some very loving family members!

It’s a good thing, too. I know I couldn’t have moved some of my more bulky furniture by myself, and it was a struggle to move a few pieces even with a pair of us lugging them. To make things a little easier on you when you move—and so I remember the lessons I learned this weekend—I’ve compiled a few tips on moving heavy furniture. 

1. Prepare. Take time to remove items from drawers, and, if possible, remove the drawers themselves before lifting dressers or nightstands. Remove cushions from chairs and sofas, and wrap delicate items like TVs in furniture pads, which can be rented from a local moving company.

2. Disassemble. If your desk, dresser, or nightstand can be taken apart to reduce the load, I’d recommend doing it—although I hope you don’t have to break out the saw like the folks mentioned in this article.

3. Measure. Don’t get stuck in a hallway or doorway because you didn’t check sizes. Measure the length, width, and depth of your items, as well as hallways, doorways, and elevators, to see if the furniture pieces fit in and through all necessary spaces.

4. Maneuver. Before lifting any items, decide your method of moving. With measurements in hand, determine which side of the item should enter a doorway first. For example, many couches can’t fit through a door upright. It’s often easier to place the couch on end and curl it around the entrance by sliding it at angles. If there will be more than one person moving an item, it’s also a good idea to discuss who will be leading, who will be following, and where breaks will be taken.

Moving up or down stairs? Discuss how you’ll position the furniture between flights and around corners. You may want to take more measurements of those areas.

5. Lift properly. Prevent back injuries and pulled muscles by lifting heavy furniture properly. FamilyDoctor.org can tell you how.

6. Thank the Lord for freight elevators. If you’re moving into an apartment that’s not on the first floor and you don’t have a freight elevator, I pity your poor, poor soul.

7. Purchase the Bigslider. Jeri Masterson invented this handy device when she was forced to move heavy items herself because her husband was away at work. Made of tough, durable plastic, the Bigslider ($24.95–$75.95) allows you to stack heavy items on top and slide them across concrete, carpet, wood, grass—you name it. If you plan on moving any furniture piece by yourself, this is the tool for you. Check out this video to see it in action.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

How to Clean a Humidifier

If static is my enemy in colder months—and believe me, it is—then my humidifier is my best friend. Not only does it prevent my hair from frizzing out and my skin from flaking, but it also keeps my nose, throat, and lungs nice and moist.

Lou Manfredini, Ace Hardware’s Helpful Hardware Man, recommended a great sonic humidifier in this previous post, and it comes with a built-in filter to keep the vapor clean.

Even with a filter, humidifiers can collect mineral deposits without proper maintenance, causing more harm than good. They quickly breed bacteria and mold, which can be especially problematic for folks with allergies and asthma. They can also cause flu-like symptoms and even lung infections in healthy people if not cleaned regularly.

If you run your humidifier frequently, it’s wise to replace the water every day and clean it weekly. Both are fairly easy and quick to do. Plus, they can save you serious grief down the road.

Before cleaning, remember to unplug the unit—we’re not big fans of electrical shocks here at The Home Know-It-All. For cool-mist humidifiers, you’ll only need to remove the filter to get started, but if you run a warm-mist one, you’ll need to remove the filter and clean the heating element before disinfecting the container. To clean the heating element, pour undiluted white vinegar over it and let it sit for at least a half hour. Empty the vinegar and rinse the container with water. Then use a soft-bristled brush to scrub away in minerals that have deposited on it.

To disinfect the container and misting chamber, you can pour a mixture of bleach and water or three-percent hydrogen peroxide and water into the base and let it sit for at least a half hour. Follow that with pure water until the odor of bleach or peroxide has gone away. Then you should be good to go!

Remember to change your filter as often as the manufacturer recommends, if not sooner, and use only distilled, de-mineralized water. (Tap water has more minerals that can appear as white dust when vaporized, which can be harmful to your lungs.)

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Pet Hair Removal

I grew up with a toy poodle for a family pet, so shedding was never an issue—I could cuddle him without getting white fur all over my clothes. But that all changed when my honey adopted two adorable stray kittens—a brother and a sister. Suddenly I found pet hair everywhere—on the sofa, on the carpet, on our clothes, you name it. Heck, even though I don’t live with the cats, I still find stray black-and-white-striped hairs on my clothes at random moments.

I realize a few stray cat hairs every now and then is nothing compared to the piles of pet hair some of you with frequently-shedding pets face. It’s just a natural part of pet ownership. Luckily, you don’t have to live in a mountain of hair—there are easy ways to keep Fluffy and Fido’s shedding in check.

All you really need is a rubber glove—simply wet the glove and wipe it across your furniture to collect fur. A damp sponge or clothes-dryer fabric-softener sheet also do the trick. See these and other quick solutions here.

Proper grooming helps prevent shedding—brush your furry friends a few times each week for the best results. This routine is especially important for cats—regular brushing decreases hair-related health problems such as … you guessed it, hairballs. When the weather warms up, brush pets outside.

And vacuum regularly, doing a thorough job each time—don’t forget corners, crevices, and baseboards, where hair sneakily collects. That’s just one of the tips that Erin from Unclutterer recommends for tackling pet hair—which she endearingly calls “tumbleweeds.” See the rest here.

If you can’t leave the house without spotting hair on your clothes, keep a lint roller on hand. But if the problem persists even after you wash your clothes, consider using an animal-specific detergent, which breaks down hair and lint. Learn more about clothes care here.

What specific products do you use to tame pet hair?

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-Al

Car Cleaning 101

Forgive me for a second while I proudly proclaim that it’s supposed to reach a balmy 52 degrees today where I live. Heat wave! And you know what that means: It’s the perfect time for a car wash. My car could definitely use it, seeing that it’s been below freezing for what feels like 10 years and my car hasn’t been cleaned for just as long.

I’m so excited that I’ve already mapped out my car-cleaning routine. And even though my wash won’t be perfect—there’s only so much sunlight left when I get off work, people—I encourage you to follow these I-can-see-my-reflection-in-the-hood pointers:

Give it a wash. This is the easiest part because you can just zip right through a carwash. Now if you’re a stickler for washing by hand with a hose, by all means, you’re more than welcome to do that, but unless you own a pressure washer, it’s not likely you’re getting your car as clean as possible. And to prevent rust and corrosion, you need to get all that grime off there. When your car is clean, moisture slips right off the shiny paint, but when dirt’s covering the surface, moisture gets trapped, causing corrosion.

My suggestion? Head to a coin-operated carwash and choose the basic wash. You can use the soap the carwash provides, or you can bring your own. (But never use dishwashing liquid or other household soaps on your car. Look for products specifically designed for cleaning vehicles.) Spray from the top down, being mindful to get places where dirt and salt could have accumulated—moldings, wheel arches, bumpers, and wipers.

As soon as you’re finished, get the plush towels and chamois out to dry.  (The Cobra Super Plus Deluxe 600 MicroFiber Towel, three for $29.99, is my first choice.) And don’t think for a second that you can just let your car air-dry. Water contains trace amounts of calcium and iron, which eat away at your paint job. Not to mention, water spots are pretty unsightly.

Wax on—Wax off. If you’re in a hurry, there’s nothing wrong with a quick wax at the car wash, but for the best coverage and shine, you should do it yourself at least twice a year. Start by applying a small amount of wax on your car in circular, overlapping motions; let it dry to a haze; and wipe it off with a soft terry-cloth towel. When you’re finished with your entire car, go back over it one more time, wiping in both clockwise and counterclockwise motions. To see how it’s done, watch this video.

Get at the interior. No car wash is complete without giving the interior a good scrub. Start by throwing away any fast-food wrappers, paper cups, or other trash that’s accumulated in your car. Remove your floor mats, give them a good shake, and set them aside. Next, break out the vacuum. (You may need to go to a carwash for a coin-operated vacuum if you don’t have one that reaches outdoors.) Suck up all that dirt, rock, and salt that’s accumulated inside since the last time you vacuumed—whenever that was. Then give your floor mats a sweep.

You can use lint-free towels and water to clean your dash and controls, or you can use cleaners specifically designed for a car’s interior. (Read the labels carefully to make sure it’s safe on all interior types.) I usually keep a container of Armor All’s Cleaning Wipes in my car to wipe up dust as I see it.

For cleaning windows, most car-care experts recommend avoiding any cleaners that contain ammonia. Although you may not know it, it’s likely your windows have a tinted film over them, and the ammonia can damage it. You can use water or a window cleaner made just for vehicles—like this one from Armor All.

Wheel wash. Most of the time you can get your tires pretty clean with just soap and water, but if you think they need it, you can spray them with a tire cleaner like Armor All’s Extreme Tire Shine Spray. To keep them looking nice, you can also cover them with a tire protectant.

Well, I’m off to bask in the glorious sunlight—and pray the cold weather is gone forever.

Oh, and thanks to Teresa, one of our dedicated readers, for recommending that we cover this topic!

Until Monday,
The Home Know-It-All

Caring for Furniture Part 4: Fabric Furniture

It’s time for the last edition in our “Caring for Furniture” series. (I know—it’s very sad. But what other type of furniture is there? If you think of one, let us know. We’ll be sure to cover it, too.)

These days most upholstered furniture comes with a stain- or soil-repellent finish, which gives you time to grab a rag and blot up your spilled soda or melted chocolate. What’s that you say? Your stinkin’ sofa didn’t come with a repellent? No problem. You can apply one yourself. Try Custom-Gard or Scotchgard, but be sure to read the label carefully to make sure it’s compatible with your fabric.

Even with a repellent, however, stains still happen. When they do, use stain removers with caution. As this article points out, bleach is never an option for fabric furniture even if you think it’s white, and fancy oxygen cleaners like Oxy Clean may not be a good idea either. (Although they’re great for other household stains, they’re often so potent they’ll remove your fabric’s color as well.)

The next time you spot a stain, take water to it first. Using a white rag, blot it and cover when finished so it doesn’t attract dust and dirt. Most of the time that’ll do the trick, but if you have a particularly stubborn stain, spray a small amount of Spray ’N Wash on the area, and then go at it with water.

To keep your fabric furniture in mint condition, vacuum it weekly using the fabric attachments. If you have pets, use a lint roller to keep hair in check.

Notice a rip or tear while cleaning? Fix it as soon as possible with advice from this article.

For more reading and additional care suggestions, check out this article.

Until Monday,
The Home Know-It-All

Quick Cabinet Upgrades

My cabinets are not in good shape. We’re talking drawers that don’t close all the way and cabinet faces that are peeling off in places. Not to mention the fact they’re dated as all get out. But I like the layout of my kitchen and the configuration of most of the cabinets. And I don’t have the cash to spend on redoing our kitchen right now anyway (really, who does?).

So I’m looking for ways to make do with what I have. Depending on the type of cabinets in your kitchen, these quick fixes might work for you too.

Deep-clean your cabinets. If your cabinets are in good shape and the style suits your taste, perhaps all they need is a good scrubbing. With some soap, water, and elbow grease you can chase away years of grease and grime and have your cabinets looking good as new in no time.

Replace cabinet hardware. This is one we’ve discussed before because it’s one of the easiest, least expensive ways to update your cabinetry. Learn about cabinet hardware options, then place an order!

Refinish ’em. Refinishing won’t work for me since the top layer of my cabinets is peeling away in places, but if your cabinets are in good shape, painting or staining them (after you clean them, of course) may be all that’s needed. And it can be done in a long weekend.

Reface ’em. One of my best bets for whipping my kitchen into shape without gutting it involves refacing my current cabinets with veneer. That means pulling away all that ugly veneer that’s peeling off now and replacing it with new stuff. My neighbors recently refaced their cabinets—which were a lot like mine—and added new wood cabinet doors. The transformation was amazing—and cost much less than a complete cabinet replacement. Learn how you can tackle refacing yourself from Rockler Woodworking and Hardware.

Have a BLAST. Cabinet BLAST, a new St. Louis-based company, offers an easy DIY alternative to refacing. The company’s custom-made decorative panels are easy to install and can be removed without damaging the cabinets, so even renters can spiff up their kitchens. Unfortunately, this option won’t work for me either. But if you had the right cabinets for it, I recommend checking out the copper inserts. Some of them are pretty cool. (And you can request free samples!)

Dream away. If temporary solutions won’t cut it, grin and bear those ugly cabinets for a while longer. And in the meantime, start saving your money and gathering ideas from books, magazines, friends’ homes, and more. Learning about the differences between stock, semi-custom, and custom cabinetry is a great place to start.

Until Monday,
The Home Know-It-All

Caring for Furniture Part 3: Leather Furniture

It’s time for another edition of Caring for Furniture. On the agenda for this week: Leather. It’s one of the most durable materials you can choose for your furniture, but it’s also one of the pickiest when it comes to products used to clean it. Use these do’s and don’ts to keep your leather furniture looking snazzy right into the next century. 

Do wipe down your furniture with a damp, white cloth once a month or even once a week. Leather needs to be re-hydrated regularly to prevent cracks and lessen the likelihood of scratches. Always dry immediately.

Don’t use leather conditioners with oils, waxes, or silicones. Modern tanning techniques no longer require the replenishing of these substances.

Do use a good-quality, water-based foam cleaner once a year to remove any dust or grime that’s built up. Try LTT Leather Care’s shampoo.

Don’t place your leather furniture in direct sunlight or heat to prevent premature fading. 

Do apply a leather protectant after cleaning with shampoo to stop the transfer of dyes from clothing and prevent body oils from soaking into the material. Try Leather Master Protection Cream.

Don’t use baby wipes or other cleaning wipes on the leather because they’ll eventually eat away at it. 

Do test out all shampoos and protectants on an unseen location before applying to the entire surface.

Don’t try everything yourself. Sometimes a professional is the only one who can tackle a particular stain, and if your couch suffers from dog- or cat-scratch fever, it’s best if an expert fixes it.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Caring for Furniture Part 2: Metal Furniture

Back for more tips on furniture care? This week we’re covering the metal variety, and just like with wood furniture, care depends on the specific material. Read on to learn how to maintain chrome, aluminum, bronze, wrought-iron, and stainless-steel furniture.

Chrome
Don’t even think about getting close to your chrome bar seat with a toxic cleaner. It’ll spot, and scratch and look even worse than when you started. Instead, use a commercial product designed to clean chrome—like Blue-Job or Mothers Chrome Polish if the job calls for it. But if you’re just in the mood to give it a nice shine, clean it with a little soap and water, and dry it with a soft cloth immediately to prevent water damage.

Aluminum
Aluminum furniture is often found outside, and that’s because it’s a durable and long-lasting material. Drag your hose over and give it a good spray once a year to knock off any grime that’s accumulated. If dirt and dust still remain, you may need to use mild dish soap as well. To prevent damage from the elements, keep your aluminum furniture in the garage during winter months. If that’s not possible, purchase a cover like one of these from The Cover Store. It’s also a good idea to cover aluminum furniture in oil when the temperatures drop. Motor oil works fine, but cooking oil is better for the environment.

Bronze
Although it’s unlikely you have an entire piece of furniture made from bronze, there may be accents of it on your favorite coffee or dining room table. Keep it dust-free by gently rubbing it with a lint-free cloth, and apply a wax yearly to protect the patina. Certain waxes should only be used on certain patinas because it can lighten dark patinas and darken light patinas. Try Clear Trewax Brand Paste Wax for indoor furniture and Sculpt Nouveau for outdoor furniture. Avoid polishing to keep the wax in place, and understand that green spotting and streaking will occur. It’s a natural occurrence with anything bronze, so embrace it!

Wrought Iron
When it comes to wrought-iron furniture, your biggest opponent is rust. Keep an eye out for any bubbling in the paint, as that’s a sure sign of corrosion. Rub the area lightly with a steel pad and kerosene, being careful to avoid damaging the paint when possible. If needed, apply a coat of enamel paint. When that’s dry, cover it with liquid wax or furniture spray designed specifically for wrought iron to prevent rust in the future.

Stainless Steel
Stainless steel is highly durable, so you can use just about any cleaner, though there are cleaners made specifically for stainless steel. My favorite? Method Stainless Steel Cleaner & Polish Duo. And if you notice any scratches, give your piece of furniture a good rub with a Scotch-Brite Scouring Pad.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Crazy-Busy Cleaning Shortcuts with Donna Smallin

Today I’m pleased to welcome a very special expert guest to The Home Know-It-All. Donna Smallin is an organizing and cleaning expert and the author of eight books on—you guessed it, cleaning and organizing—including her most recent release, The One-Minute Organizer: A to Z Storage Solutions (Storey Publishing, 2008). And she’s here to share her expert shortcuts for cleaning when life gets crazy.

I know I’m excited to hear what Donna has to say because I never seem to have enough time to clean. So let’s get started!

Q: What’s the key to keeping your home clean when you’re time-crunched?

A: I always say it’s a lot easier to keep up than to catch up. It may seem crazy, but the more often you clean the less time you’ll spend overall. If you wipe down the bathroom sink and counters every day, it only takes about 60 seconds every wipe. Then you won’t spend forever scraping dried-on toothpaste when you do clean.

Stash cleaning supplies in spaces around your home so you can clean on the fly. During a television commercial, you can dust in the living room. Cleaning supplies can be hidden behind the TV, behind books on bookshelves, in a drawer, even in a little container underneath your sofa.

Q: What are your favorite speed-cleaning tools?

A: The tools you use can make a really big difference.

I am really hot on microfiber cloths for a lot of reasons. They pick up dirt like nobody’s business. You don’t need to have any cleaning supplies either; you just have the cloth itself. All you do is wet the cloth and squeeze it really dry, then use it to wipe up. Even if it’s dry it does a great job picking up dust. And they’re not disposable—you can actually throw them in the wash.

Oxo makes an extendable microfiber duster. It is the coolest thing. It’s just this long pole with a microfiber mop head at the end. You can extend it and tilt it at a 90-degree angle so you can reach up and dust the fan blades or top shelves without having to get on a ladder. You can also just have it extend straight up to clean cobwebs. I love it. (Oxo Good Grips Microfiber Extendable Duster with Pivoting Head, $17.99, Oxo.com, right)

The other thing I love is the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser foaming cleaner sponge. You have to try this. They’re white sponges, you wet them, you squeeze them dry, and you can wipe off fingerprints around the doorknob, scuffmarks on the molding. It’s amazing what these things clean up. The foaming one is great for cleaning inside the microwave oven and refrigerator or on the stovetop. I have no idea how it works. I usually get it out for a particular job and keep going.

Most people have a professional carpet cleaner come in once a year or every 12 to 18 months depending on how much traffic they have. But you can keep the carpet clean in between professional cleanings. I recently tried the Bissell ProDry carpet cleaner—it’s almost easier than vacuuming. And it leaves the carpets dry in less than 30 minutes. So that’s a pretty cool thing because normally when you clean carpets they can be wet for up to 8 hours. This does a really great job of doing those in-between cleanings.

One other thing I always use: a squeegee. Oxo makes one with a little suction cup so it hangs in the shower. Every time you use the shower, if you use the squeegee on the glass doors and walls, you won’t have spots and it prevents soap scum and mildew on the walls. People always come in and say, how do you keep your glass doors so clean? It’s the squeegee.(Oxo Good Grips All-Purpose Squeegee, $5.99, Oxo.com, right)

Q: How do you get motivated to tackle your least favorite tasks?

A: Time how long it takes to complete cleaning chores you dread. I hate emptying the dishwasher because you have to do it over and over and over. So time yourself. When you realize it only takes 60 seconds to make your bed or 2 minutes to empty the dishwasher, it’s not such a big deal anymore. You just get it done.

Q: Any other time-savers you swear by?

A: Clean your toilets while you sleep. Pour cleaner into your bowl before you go to bed, then in the morning just brush and flush. That way you’re letting the cleaning product do the job for you. That’s true of other things too—when you spray down the shower, if you let it sit and do something else, when you come back to it it’s a lot easier to clean.

Think prevention. Putting mats inside and outside your entryway doors is always a good idea because we track in so much stuff. If you have a lot of carpet and it begins right in the entryway, leave a basket by the door for shoes.

If you sweep the kitchen floor, it’s going to stay cleaner longer. If you get just a little water on your floor and it’s already kind of dirty you really notice the dirt. But if you sweep each night and spill water on the floor it just dries rather than accentuating the dirt.

You may be cooking dinner and waiting for water to boil. Use those few minutes to run some vinegar and water through your coffee maker, unclutter drawers, wipe kitchen cabinets. Even 15 minutes a day ends up being 7 hours a month.

The other thing is that an uncluttered home looks a lot cleaner. Just getting rid of clutter and picking things up will make it look better. And then when you’re ready to clean it’s a lot easier. Just grab a trash bag or box and go through your home looking for things that are taking up space. You don’t use them, you don’t love them. If you really think about it they are just taking up valuable space.

Q: What can we get away with not doing?

A: Don’t clean where you don’t have to. If there’s a spot on the wall, clean the spot, don’t clean the whole wall.

If the job seems too big, just take a piece of the job, whatever that might be. Just spend 15 minutes doing it and see where you get.

Thanks for all the great advice, Donna. I can’t wait to try it out in my house! Come back and visit us soon.

Readers, if you want to learn more cleaning tips and tricks from expert Donna Smallin, be sure to visit her website and check out her books!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-Al

Caring for Furniture Part 1: Wood Furniture

We’re kicking off a new series here at The Home Know-It-All, aimed at keeping your furniture in tip-top shape. This week we’re diving into wood furniture maintenance, and if you know what’s good for your furniture, you’ll come back soon to learn how to care for the rest of it.

Wood furniture can have a few different finishes—namely oil, wax, varnish, and paint. Care regimens vary for each, so follow these guidelines for the best results.

Oil
Oil finish is rubbed directly into the wood furniture with no other type of sealer applied over it. The grain is left exposed, and it lacks sheen. Although oil-finished wood furniture is easily damaged by water, it’s also easy to care for. Simply reapply a layer of oil. Try Danish oil, a mix of polymerized linseed oil, or Watco Stain Oil.  Tung oil also works nicely. Because the oil soaks into the wood, you can apply as many layers as necessary.

Wax
Usually put over an oil finish, wax makes your wood furniture shine and improves durability by taking the brunt of water spots. If the wax layer is damaged, you can easily remove it and apply another coat. Don’t know how? Visit Real Simple to see how it’s done. Even if there’s no water spots or scratches it’s often good to apply a new coat of wax once a year to remove the dirt and dust of daily life. Use a buffing cloth to give your furniture a good shine in the meantime. 

Varnish
A varnished piece of wood furniture is the most waterproof and often the most resilient. But it’s also the hardest to repair. If after a few dents and dings your piece of furniture needs repaired, strip and reapply the varnish, sanding between coats. For a complete tutorial, check out this site.

Paint 
Thoroughly clean your painted wood furniture with soap and water on a regular basis. If the paint begins to chip significantly, you can sand it and repaint. Be sure to apply one or two layers of primer before painting.

Want more information on how to care for your wood furniture? Check out what Lowe’s has to say. And be sure to visit Better Homes & Gardens for advice on dusting and cleaning.

Until Monday,
The Home Know-It-All

Photo Storage Strategies

While looking for batteries in a desk drawer the other day, I came across a stack of photos from my good ol’ college days. And while it was a nice trip down memory lane, it made me wonder where else I’ve randomly stashed photos.

The discovery inspired me to kick off my new year’s resolution of honing my organization skills by sorting and storing all my photos, starting with the fabulous holiday photos I took this year. After all, I want to preserve my memories. If you also need to whip your scads of photos into shape, here’s how:

Digital photos. Perhaps just as alarming as finding random photos in my desk drawer is discovering pictures from 2006 on my digital camera—pictures that were never uploaded onto my computer. Eek! What was I waiting for?

So this past weekend I finally got down to business by uploading most of those images into easy-to-find folders that make logical sense—but not before I replaced the numbered filename with a specific name that’s easy to remember. Then I placed distinct groups of images into clearly labeled folders and subfolders. (To further protect your images, back them up or burn them to a CD—that will be my next step.)

If you want to share your memories with family members in different locations, upload your pics into an online photo album, which eliminates the hassle of emailing. Try Shutterfly or Snapfish. I printed some of my favorite images on my super-cool new photo printer. If you don’t have a photo printer, simply take a memory card, CD, or USB port with your pictures to a photo kiosk at your local retail store and print them there.

Prints. Staring at my piles of photo prints was a bit overwhelming—until I started sorting away. Just like I did with my digital pictures, I arranged my prints into specific categories: Freshman Year, NYC Trip 2007, New Year’s Eve 2008, etc. (It may help to jot down the date of the event on the back of each photo, too. If you label photos, do so with a photo-safe acid-free pen or soft-lead pencil (found at crafts stores) and write with a light touch.) And anytime I came across a particularly cringe-worthy or blurry snapshot, I ditched it so that it didn’t take up valuable space.

Once you’ve got your photos organized, place them in acid-free, lignin-free plastic sleeves that fit into a three-ring binder, photo album, or protective photo storage box such as the Archival Photo Storage Box from The Container Store ($17.99 each), see right. Store your photo albums or containers in a cool, dry area away from moisture.

Negatives. Because the chemical residue on photos can damage negatives, it’s best to store them separately. Use extra precaution when handling negatives: hold them by the edges, as oils from your fingers can harm negatives. Keep negatives in PVC-free plastic negative sleeves inserted in a three-ring binder, and get rid of the paper envelopes they came in—chances are, these envelopes aren’t acid-free. Store your negative sleeves in a cool, dry place with good air circulation. Learn more about safely storing negatives here.

Until tomorrow,
The Home-Know-It-All

Post-Holiday Recycling

Whew—you made it through another whirlwind Christmas. How did it go? Gauging by the mound of garbage at my door, I’d say things went pretty well here. But this year instead of chucking it all in the trash, I’m going to recycle. And you should too. Everything from your cardboard boxes to your Christmas tree can be reused. So gather it up and get ready to save the planet.

Boxes
If you’re lucky enough to have curbside recycling, it’s likely the program will accept both flat and corrugated cardboard. Break down all those boxes from your new electronics and toys and send them to the curb. No curbside recycling? Visit The Recycling Center’s website to find a center in your town, or check with local grocery stores to see if they accept boxes. And don’t forget egg nog and other cardboard food containers—just give them a good scrub before dropping them in the recycling box.

Batteries
Because of all the toxic metals in rechargeable batteries—think mercury, lead acid, nickel cadmium, alkaline, and nickel metal hydride—it’s important that you dispose of them properly. And thanks to the Battery Act of 1996, recycling rechargeable NiCard, NiMH, Lithium-Ion, and sealed lead-acid batteries is easier than ever. The next time you’re out and about swing by a local retail store like Home Depot, Wal-Mart, or Target to drop off your dead rechargeable batteries to be recycled. The best part? It’s free! 

Wrapping Paper
Not all wrapping paper is recyclable. If it has metallic specks or is very thin, you can’t send it to the recycle center. Rather than throw it away, pass it through the shredder and use it as filler for other presents. Or if you’re feeling mighty crafty, try your hand at paper beads. For more ideas on how to recycle gift wrap, head on over to Craft Stew.

Christmas Tree
And finally, you can’t forget the tree. We filled you in last year on how to recycle it, but just in case you’ve forgotten how, read all about it here.

So what else are you recycling this year?

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Preparing for Overnight Guests

Whether you’re hosting out-of-town family—or the occasional party guest who imbibed too much—get your home guest-ready with these tips and tricks:

• Clean and organize: Vacuum, dust, mop, clean the refrigerator and corral clutter as much as possible.
• Stay calm and collected. Forgot to clean under the bed in the guest room? Worry not. Chances are, your guests won’t even look under the bed. While it’s essential to clean before guests arrive, your family members aren’t there to criticize you. They’re there to spend quality time with you. Period.
• Stock your spare bedroom with clean sheets and blankets, plump pillows (cover them with a pillow protector) a stack of magazines or books, a snack tray, mirror, reading light, tissues, and alarm clock. Make the room even more home-y with framed pictures (especially of you and your guests) and a vase of fresh flowers, which you can buy inexpensively at the grocery store.
• Tidy up the bathroom—this is one room that should be spotless. Also make sure to have extra towels, washcloths, shampoo, soap, body lotion, disposable razors, and other toiletries on hand. HGTV dishes on the top 5 elements of a guest-friendly bathroom.
• Faced with a shortage of beds? Invest in good-quality inflatable air mattresses, or check out Real Simple’s top bed choices for overnight guests.
• Provide space for guests’ clothes by clearing out a couple of drawers or putting a luggage rack, bench, or clothes butler in the guest room (accompanied by hangers, of course).
• Download this houseguest worksheet, courtesy of Real Simple. It allows you to fill out emergency contact information and other vital information guests might need. Distribute one to each guest.

For other ways to make your home even more warm and welcoming, try these tips from Simple Mom.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

10 Budget-Friendly Cleaning Ideas

Okay, I’m a clean freak—I’ll admit it. I like my floors swept, shower scrubbed, and carpet vacuumed. But I’m also on a tight budget, which means I can’t buy every new cleaning gadget out there or every sparkly—but costly—green cleaner I ooh and ahh over. I can still keep my little apartment immaculate, though. Here’s how I do it:  

1. Make the most of dish soap. I have a slight obsession with Method’s French lavender dish soap and use it for almost everything. By pouring a few drops in a bucket of water, I get my kitchen floors so clean I could practically eat off of  ’em, and I avoid buying expensive and harmful floor cleaners. And to my delight, Method’s soap is so potent a few drops will do me. I also use it to remove stains and clean glass.

2. Stock up on the store brand. Don’t think for one second that the store brand is any less qualified to clean than the name brand. I use my local grocery store’s brand of sponges, mops, brooms, bleach, and whatever else I can get my hands on. But keep an eye on the ingredients. If the store brand is lacking a crucial component, I usually stick with the name brand.

3. Reuse, reuse, reuse. Forget tossing old towels and t-shirts—cut them into smaller pieces to use as dust and cleaning rags. By doing this, I save the landfill from more trash and myself the cost of paper towels.

4. Borax. This little wonder can do just about everything under the sun. And—even better—it’s a naturally occurring substance, making it quite environmentally friendly. I use it to scrub the bathroom and kitchen. And though I’ve never tried it, you can also make laundry soap out of it as well. Check out all the low-cost Borax recipes here. But even though it’s a natural product, it can be toxic if ingested, so use with care and store away from children.

5. Concoct my own. We’ve pointed you toward this site before for green-cleaner recipes, but a little reminder never hurt anyone. Rhonda Jean’s concoctions are some of the best out there, and her other frugal advice is worth taking. I’m especially fond of her sink cleaner recipe.

6. Follow directions. I’m always tempted to pour a little extra laundry detergent in a load or spray the shower cleaner a few more times, but if I keep my urges in check, my cleaners last a lot longer. So check the directions and only use the amount specified. I’m not saying it’s going to be easy, but you’ll thank me when you see how much you save.

7. Line dry. At my apartment building, it costs a buck for every load I dry, so I often skip the dryer all together. My clothes take less wear and tear and hold their shape for longer. Plus, I save money. And even if you have full access to your own dryer, your energy bill will drop if you avoid it as often as possible.

8. Muster some elbow grease. Stains and that sticky goop at the bottom of the fridge have nothing on these guns. Although it’s easy to reach for the cleaner, sometimes it just takes a little extra scrubbing. So before I break out anything toxic, I try my hand at a little soap and water and a lot of elbow grease. 

9. Hold out for a full load. I wait until the dishwasher or laundry basket is stuffed to the brim before I run another load. It may test my patience—sometimes I really want to wear that dirty pair of jeans—but it saves me serious dough. 

10. Maintain. I try to stay on top of my cleaning duties. A little extra time spent now prevents me from spending more money on tougher cleaners and pest control down the road.  Try giving your home a good clean about once a week.

So that’s what I do. Now tell me—what’s your secret?

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Gas Fireplace Maintenance

We wrote about wood-burning fireplace maintenance quite a while ago, and we taught you how to build a better fire even longer ago. So if you go au naturel in your hearth, you’ve been doing it safely and brilliantly ever since. 

But we haven’t forgotten those gas fireplace devotees out there. We’re with you on that whole I-hate-chopping-firewood thing, and we want you to be safe too. Here’s the scoop on gas fireplace maintenance. 

As with any gas appliance, you should get your gas fireplace inspected annually by a licensed gas technician to maintain low-energy costs and ensure well-being. (Ask the Plumbing-Heating-Cooling Contractors Association for a list of professionals in your area.) When the technician shows up at your door, he or she should be ready to: 

• Adjust and clean the gas pilot safety system
• Check the venting system
• Inspect the combustion chamber, chimney draw, and primary air shutter to ensure proper air feed to flame
• Clean and inspect glass, firebox, and heat exchanger
• Repaint firebox if needed
• Verify overall tightness of electrical connections to prevent carbon dioxide leaks
• Ensure proper log position
• Replace ember bed material
• Test and clean blower if applicable

What can you be doing in the meantime? Clean the glass front of your fireplace often—but never when it’s warm. (The pores in the glass enlarge, letting cleaner seep in and causing cloudiness over time.) Wash gas logs once a month during heavy use with a soft bristle brush, never leave the fire unattended, and call a technician promptly if you notice anything fishy.

And make it snappy—it’s starting to get pretty cold ’round these parts.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Personal Paper Shredders

Identity thieves beware: I’ve got a paper shredder and I know how to use it. Ever since I got mine last winter, I’ve put it to very good use, shredding anything and everything with personal information (and even papers that don’t—including that stack of annoying junk mail that tends to quickly accumulate on my desk).

If you don’t own a personal paper shredder, I highly recommend investing in one. You can find them in many prices and sizes (some fit neatly under your desk, while others, as you’ll soon see, even fit in a drawer). Here are a few of the ones worth checking out:

Heavy Duty. If you work from home, you might need a more hardworking machine. And that’s where models like The Staples 30-Sheet Strip Cut Shredder ($169.99) come in. As its name says, it has a 30-sheet capacity and it can withstand constant use—up to 100 daily. The shredder’s blades cut your papers to ¼” strips, while its 8.14-gallon bin stores a lot of paper. In addition to shredding credit cards and staples, you can also shred CDs and DVDs too. Another bonus: This model comes with a warranty.

Stylish and Safe. The Powershred DS-1 from Fellowes ($209.98) allows you to feed 11 sheets at a time. This lean, mean shredding machine has the power to shred as many as 130 sheets per minute—as well as credit cards, staples, and small paper clips—with its cross-cutting steel blades. Another feature I like? The step-can wastebasket. And even though this paper shredder will slice ‘n’ dice all of your confidential paperwork, you can rest assured it won’t harm you. There’s an important safety feature that stops the shredder when your hands get too close to the paper opening. Another thing this model has going for it: It got a good rating from the Good Housekeeping Research Institute.

Pint-Size Pick. Short on space? The handheld Personal Shredder from InnoDesk ($14.99) fits perfectly in a desk drawer—or you can also easily bring it with you on a business trip. This petite, battery-operated model boasts a 3-sheet capacity that’s ideal for receipts and envelopes.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Under-Bed Organization

Be forewarned—I’m on an organization kick again. This time around I’m dead set on cleaning up underneath my bed. And it’s not only because it’ll make spotting the boogey man a little easier. (Though I do like to peek under my bed every time I get home to check for him.)

Mainly, I want a spot for more storage. My apartment doesn’t have much of it, so I like to squeeze every inch of usable space out of it. Underneath my bed is an ideal spot, but cramming too much under there can make locating items difficult. With a few select tools, however, I’ve developed an under-bed organization system that suits my knack—some would say, obsession—with order. Give it a try. I bet you’ll sing with glee as well.

First, I cleared everything out from under my bed and bought these bed risers ($9.99) from Target. They hold up to 300 pounds each and lift the bed five inches to make room for larger boxes.

Then I bought a couple of these rolling under-bed baskets ($37.83) from Amazon.com to hold smaller items that I regularly use, like art supplies, scarves, and mittens. Because the baskets roll, I no longer have to shimmy myself under my bed to locate that missing pad of paper or long-lost sweater.

Once those were filled to the brim, I grabbed all the items I use less often and placed them in colorful storage boxes, similar to these from the Container Store. Their bright colors make it a little cheerier under my bed, and the label cards on the front make locating specific items a snap. Plus, having everything in containers automatically makes the space more organized, causing my heart to go pitter-patter.

But if all this still doesn’t get you organized, consider buying a bed with built-in storage, like one of these featured on Apartment Therapy or one of these shown on Jeri’s Organizing & Decluttering News.

Still not able to wrangle in the clutter? Check out Miller Organizing’s tips and tricks for tidying a small space.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Silencing Squeaky Stairs

It’s almost Halloween, so perhaps, you want to leave that squeaky stair alone until after the holiday—just to add a little extra spook to your house. But once the trick-or-treaters have all gone home, give yourself some peace and quiet by fixing the squeak.

Before breaking out the tool belt and peeling away risers, first familiarize yourself with the anatomy of stairs. This Old House has a great explanation.

It’s possible that your creaky step need only a squirt of liquid graphite or a dusting of talcum powder, so give that a try before diving in too deep. If that doesn’t work, dig out your hammer, screwdriver, and nailset, and determine your plan of attack. Depending on where the stairs are located in your home, it may make the most sense to repair the staircase from below or at stair level. For example, if your stairs are left exposed on the underside, it’s easiest and most effective to fix the squeak from below, but if your steps have been encased, you’ll need to make repairs from above.

After examining the lay of the land, follow these instructions on Old House Web. The friendly folks over there have even ranked their advice from easy to hard, so you can figure out which method is most appropriate for your skill level.

Better Homes and Gardens also features easy-to-follow directions. And if your stairs are carpeted, This Old House has good advice.

When you’re finished, walk up and down the stairs a few times to enjoy the silence. Ah, beautiful, huh? No need to thank me the next time your midnight snack run goes unnoticed!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Cool Bookcases

If you’re a bookworm like me, chances are you’ve got more books than you know what to do with (and stacks of magazines, of course). The lone bookshelf in my apartment is absolutely overflowing, and I’m thinking I need another one.

I had no idea there were so many cool options out there! Maybe that’s because I’m ever the traditionalist and adore classic bookcases like the Dolce Dark Walnut Bookcase from Target ($149.99) and the Graham Desk and Hutch combo from Pottery Barn ($599-$1,598), which combines bookshelf space with a desk in a very refined package.

Intrigued, I did a little searching around on the Internet for some sweet bookcases. Here are just a few of my favorites:

Graphic pop bookcase
Photo courtesy of PBteen

Think pink. True, the Graphic Pop Bookcase from Pottery Barn Teen ($499) wouldn’t go with my décor now, but I definitely wish I would have had this in my bedroom when I was a teenager—it’s the perfect blend of girly and edgy, thanks to its pink interior and circular cutouts. The unit comes with five deep shelves; three are fixed and two are adjustable. You’ll also find a cord cutout and mouse hole cutouts on every shelf—perfect for storing electronics.

Photo courtesy of
Peter Pepper Products, Inc.

Sleek statement. I asked my honey for his input on bookcases, and he picked this Peter Pepper-Envision Floor Standing model ($1,431; price varies with options) because of its clean, contemporary styling. And I love it too, because its four glass shelves (you can choose from two widths) provide ample room for storing all your novels, yet the unit itself doesn’t consume lots of floor space. Another benefit: You can choose a black, cool grey, or natural maple background panel finish.

Soho Bookcase
Photo courtesy of World Market

For a different, equally contemporary option, check out the ebony-finish Soho Bookcase from World Market ($269). It’s got a simple, four-tier design, but it makes a big statement.

Wall art. Seeking a small-space option? I always am, as you very well know by now. And that’s why I was drawn to the functional Corner Space Saver Bookcase from Stacks and Stacks ($45.99). As its name points out, this awesome unit fits neatly in any corner. And it’s got a stylish shape to boot. I’m sold.

Corner Space Saver Bookcase
Photo courtesy of
stacksandstacks.com

Multitasker. The Exotic Retreat Bookcase/Room Divider from Target ($299.99) is one hardworking bookcase. Not only does it meet the standard requirements of a bookcase—to hold books and provide display space (obviously), it also functions as a room divider. And thanks to its unique shape and rich dark finish, it looks darn good doing it. Also check out the customizable Puzzle Bookcase from Crate & Barrel ($99.95-$379).

Want to see some really creative bookshelves? Then you have to hop on over to Freshome. My favorite? Definitely the Equation Bookcase. But the Quad Bookcase is pretty nifty too. Whatever your style, you’ll find oodles of cool bookshelves on this site.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

What We're Loving: Itso Modular Storage

Just the other day I was walking through Target (Best. Store. Ever.), when I came across an eye-catching display of stacked storage cubes that I couldn't helping staring at. That was my introduction to Itso modular storage, the creative brainchild of a collaboration between Target and design firm Ideo.

The best part? It's completely customizable—you can buy individual storage cubes in different sizes (they come in white plastic or wood laminate finish)—and stack 'em or line 'em up to your heart's content. If you crave closed storage, you can purchase coordinating storage bins made from fabric, plastic, or paperboard (bonus: they come in seven bright hues). Use the pieces in a dorm room to stash papers and books (trust me, they're a trendy alternative to those plastic crates) or in a crafts room to corral all your supplies. Or why not create your own media center with the perfect amount of storage for your family room? I'm thinking of snapping up a few cubes myself to tame my beast of a closet.

To see how the Itso storage system can work for you, try the Itso Builder tool here.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Schooltime Organization

If you have kids in your house, odds are that every afternoon when they get home from school an explosion occurs: book bags litter the floor, homework piles up on the kitchen counter or dining room table, and permission slips disappear into the same abyss that steals stray socks from the dryer.

Come to think of it, despite the fact I don’t have kids, since I started graduate school I’m experiencing the same problem myself (sans permission slips, of course). Which got me thinking: What can we do to get all this schooltime mess under control?

There are a number of solutions, depending on your organization style, your home, your kids’ willingness to help out, I could go on …

If you have a large entryway or a mudroom, why not start right there? Add a few functional storage elements—a bench that you can store things in or under, some hooks on the wall or some shelves—and you’ll have everything you need to compel the kids to put their things away right when they walk in the door. (And they’ll know where to find things when it’s time to leave the next morning.) See exactly what I mean by checking out our Artful Entries post. Organizing queen Cynthia Townley Ewer takes the concept a step further by suggesting that you create a launch pad—be sure to check out her tips.

Beyond the entryway, think about where things get used the most. If your kids tend to tackle homework in the family room after dinner, designate an out-of-the-way spot as a school zone. Give each child a shelf for storing school-related stuff, and if you want to hide school supplies from view, simply hang a pretty curtain in front of the bookshelf. Or stick plastic bins, tubs, or carts in a corner where they’re easily accessible but out of the way.

Is the kitchen table your homework domain? Commandeer a kitchen cabinet or two nearby for putting items away so they don’t clutter the table at mealtimes.

When crayons, markers, paper, and other school supply must-haves are cluttering your living spaces, there are plenty of options for creatively—and attractively—corralling the items your kids need most. Have some old shoeboxes lying around? Cover them with wallpaper or wrapping paper and voila—you have an attractive way to stash supplies in plain sight on shelves.

Of course, you can also purchase plenty of attractive organization products to help keep things under control. Some of my favorites? You’ll find fabulous products from See Jane Work, The Container Store, and Ikea to fit organization needs big and small—whether you’re organizing in the office or the living room.

Speaking of schooltime organization, if getting ready in the morning is always a challenge because no one ever knows what to wear, Unclutterer presents a great option: a six-day closet organizer with a cubby for your child’s clothes for each day of the week. Wait, come to think of it, I wouldn’t mind using one …

What tricks do you use to keep schooltime clutter under control? Share here!

Until Wednesday,
The Home Know-It-All

Vertical Storage Solutions for Small Spaces

The other evening, I was wrestling with ways to make my bathroom more attractive (it was a rainy day, and I was bored). Namely, I wanted a place where I could display candles and other decorative items. And with the way my tiny bathroom is configured, the only place for those things was on top of the toilet tank. But right as I was about to give up and move onto more productive things, it hit me: why not put the back wall to good use? The only thing on the ugly beige wall was a towel bar, so I hung a little white shelf above it and added my favorite candles.

You see, that’s the beauty of vertical storage solutions, whether they are simple wall shelves, a desk hutch, or tall, narrow shelving units. When done right, vertical shelving adds interest and function to any room without consuming precious floor space or looking too bulky.

So how can you squeeze vertical storage into your living quarters to maximize every inch of space? Lots of ways! For example, install a few shelves above your desk for magazine files and notebooks. Or consider purchasing a matching hutch to top your desk. In the bathroom, try an over-the-toilet space saver cabinet such as this one from Bed, Bath Beyond. And if you’ve used up most of the space in your medicine cabinet, Home Organizing Ideas recommends using an over-the-door shoe rack to corral small items such as band-aids, cotton balls, you name it, in the bathroom. Plus, you’ll find all sorts of clever small-space storage solutions for every room. For even more pointers, check out this helpful Homescape story too.

If you have a home, consider creating between-the-studs built-in bookshelves. Can’t mess with your walls? Try this tip using a pair of tall, sturdy freestanding bookshelves instead.

There’s no doubt that vertical storage units are hardworking. But they can be sneaky too. Case in point: the IKEA PS clock. Not only is it one heckuva cute clock, it opens up to reveal just enough space for small knick-knacks. Love it!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Food-Freezing Tips

When you’re constantly preparing meals for one like I am—I know, I live a sad and lonely life—you’re bound to end up with leftovers once and awhile. And preserving that extra food for later is not an easy task. Even though you may be pretty handy with a blender and a sauté pan, the freezer is an entirely different appliance—one that requires skill and wit to truly master.

Okay, maybe it’s not that difficult, but to be completely honest with you, freezing food scares me a little bit. I’m always second-guessing myself. Did I get that leftover chicken into the freezer fast enough? Did I get all the air out of that freezer bag? How long ago did I put this ground hamburger in here?

So to ease my worries a little bit, I’ve compiled some food-freezing tips. Now I just need to tackle that underline problem: Why is it that I’m always cooking for only myself?

• Your freezer should stay at a steady 0˚ Fahrenheit. Fluctuating temperatures will turn that casserole to mush.
• Get foods into the freezer as fast as possible. Don’t let your leftovers sit out for longer than 30 minutes. But don’t just trust me, Helpwithcooking.com says: “When fresh food is quick frozen, the cold penetrates rapidly, freezing the water and forming a large amount of small ice crystals. The smaller the ice crystals, the better the food quality after defrosting.”
• Freeze foods so there’s as little air as possible in the packaging. Find the best fitting container for the portion of food. If there’s still a gap between the top of your lasagna and the lid, pack it with crumpled wax paper. And if you use a freezer bag, squeeze the daylight out of it, making sure all the air is out. To prevent moisture from escaping, choose tight fitting lids and securely squeeze baggies shut.
• Only freeze foods that are in good condition. Don’t even think about throwing that 3-day-old package of ground turkey into the freezer. Though it’s a time saver, a freezer is not a miracle worker, and it won’t rescue rancid meat.
• Store food in small portions. Divide your leftovers into personal servings, so you don’t reheat food that you won’t eat. Freezing and reheating food too many times will ruin flavor and increase your chance of freezer burn.
• New packages should be stored on the bottom of the freezer away from other food. The lowest level of your freezer is the coldest, and if air has room to circulate, it’s the spot that’ll freeze your foods the fastest.
• Label containers. Clearly mark the recipe name and date on the outside of the packaging.
• Leave seasonings out of foods that’ll go directly into the freezer. Time in the freezer will intensify the seasoning in your meatloaf, so leave the salt and pepper or other spices out of the recipe until after it thaws.
• You can’t freeze everything. In general, you’ll want to stay away from anything that contains milk, but for a complete list, check out what Real Simple has to say.

But do tell me, is it my cooking that drives everyone away? Or perhaps it’s the three flights up to my apartment? Either way, at least I’ve got my freezing techniques down pat—that’ll show ’em!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Green Shower Cleaning

There are lots of reasons for my anal nature—at least if I thought awhile I could come up with something. But for my obsession with keeping the shower clean, I blame that entirely on my mother.

As far back as I can remember, Mom insisted that my sisters and I keep the bathroom clean. Her biggest pet peeve? Streaky showers. And you know what she made me do every time I got out of the shower? Wipe it down with a washcloth and a dry towel. That’s a lot of work for busy girl, and truthfully—sorry, Mom—I just didn’t see the point in it.

Since getting my own place and having my own shower to clean, however, I’ve realized its benefits. (Yes, Mom, you were right.) I’ve learned that wiping the shower down with a towel every time you exit it is the first step in green shower cleaning and virtually eliminates the need for those toxic after-shower cleaners. Just keep an extra towel and washcloth on your towel holder and grab them after you’ve tried yourself off. A little time here will save you tons of time later.

When it comes time for the big clean once a week—or eek, once a month—start by concocting your own shower cleaner. Learn how by visiting this clean, green site. Not only does it offer recipes for shower cleaners, it also shows recipes for oven cleaners, shoe cleaners, and much more.

Most homemade shower cleaners are made of three basic ingredients: vinegar, salt, and baking soda. Vinegar helps break down fatty acids, clearing your drains of the gunk that causes back ups, and salt is great at removing tough stains. (Sprinkle half of a grapefruit with salt and rub it around the tub’s edge to remove rings, and you’ll see what I mean!). Baking soda is a natural deodorizer and will make your shower shine after cleaning.

If you don’t have time to make your own, purchase a non-toxic cleaner like one of the ones mentioned on this previous blog post. And to read reviews on most available green cleaners, go here.

Once you’ve got your cleaner, you’ll need to grab your supplies—and this could be the most important step in green shower cleaning. With the right supplies, you can eliminate the need for harmful chemicals. You’ll need a rag—no paper towels here, please—and a white sponge like this one from 3M. You may also need a microfiber cloth for polishing and a corner brush for grout.

Work top to bottom, left to right, spraying your homemade or non-toxic chemical and scrubbing with your sponge. If you have shower doors, read this article from Real Simple to learn how to clean those. After scrubbing everything with your sponge, dry it all off with your rag. And voilà, that’s one happy, clean—and of course, green—shower!

Do you have any green cleaning tips? Go ahead, share!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Fight Those Funky Smells (Deodorizing Pointers)

Though I don’t think I’m as picky about smells as the lady mentioned in this article, I’m admittedly still pretty picky. I’ve tried to overcome my aversion through the years, but try as I might I haven’t succeeded. So what do I do to make sure my apartment smells fresh and clean? Here’s a few—all natural, of course—examples I’ve stumbled upon:

Kitchen
As the main culprit of household smells, you’ll need to put on your game face to tackle unpleasant aromas here. All that baking, and frying, and microwaving sure does whip up some ugly odors. The next time you fill your kitchen with the ripe smell of fish or garlic try sautéing a pan of citrus peels—any type will work. And if your sink needs some freshening, stick some of those peels down the drain for your garbage disposal to enjoy. You should also clean your fridge out regularly. Need some tips? Check out this; previous blog post. If it still smells even after cleaning, wipe the fridge’s walls down with a cotton pad soaked in pure vanilla extract. That should do the trick!

Carpet
Good ol’ baking soda will help eliminate the odors in your carpet. Liberally sprinkle the stuff, let it sit for about an hour, and then vacuum it up. If you have the time, consider concocting this odor-eliminating recipe for your rugs from Low Impact Living.

Pets
For pet odors, try Wee Cleaner—and I’m not just suggesting it because the name makes me chuckle. It’s all natural and boasts a 99-percent success rate.

Basement
Does your basement smell like—well—a basement? Take Real Simple’s advice and place a sliced onion down there. After that initial onion odor subsides, your basement will smell fresh again.

Bedroom
This may seem kind of obvious, but the best way to beat bad smells in the bedroom is to do your laundry. Wash your sheets at least once a week—and no, I’m not exaggerating. Think about it, you spend almost eight hours in them a night. You spend about that in your daily outfit, and you wash that after just one day!

Don’t have time to do that much laundry? Do as the Happy Slob Housekeeper suggests and light your lampe berger. This fancy schmancy lamp eliminates odors starting at their molecular level. Cool, huh?

Happy deodorizing! And as you probably already know, I’m always looking for a new way to fight smells, so let me know what works for you.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Painting Cleanup

Summer is a great time to tackle painting projects around the house. But once the fun is done, you’re likely left with a mess. Before you can enjoy the new hues on your walls, furniture, or siding, take some cues from these painting pointers.

Think smart before you start. You’ll save time and prevent messes by taking measures to stay tidy before you even crack open that first gallon of paint. The DIY Network recommends gluing a plastic or paper plate to the bottom of your paint can to catch drips (you can just peel it off and toss it away when you’re done). Another good idea? Line your paint tray with a disposal cover or plastic wrap so all you have to do is throw away the paint-covered liner rather than scrubbing the tray.

While you’re at it, be sure to move furniture out of the room (or cover it all in the center of the room) for painting walls or ceilings. Lay down drop cloths, have rags on hand for quickly wiping up spills as they happen, and you’re ready to go.

After the job. Don’t have time to clean the brush? Place it in a resealable plastic bag in the fridge or freezer until you can clean it. (And if your painting job is to be continued until tomorrow, this is a great way to ensure your brush is ready to go when you start again.)

If you ended up with more paint on your hands than on the wall, the folks at HGTV recommend washing them with cooking oil followed by a good scrubbing with glycerine-based soap.

DoItYourself.com offers a whole slew of stories related to paint cleanup. Check out their website to learn how to remove paint specks from the floor, clean up with drop cloths and rags, and get rid of paint without chemical strippers.

Behr offers even more pointers for cleaning up, depending on whether you used water-base or oil-base paint. With water-base paint, if you gather a couple of large buckets and some soap and water, you’ll be set. With oil-base paint, the buckets come in handy too, but you may need a chemical-based solvent to tackle cleanup.

Got paint gunk on your windows? Once it dries, use a straight razor blade to remove it from glass.

If you’re dealing with dried paint on the brush, try soaking it in vinegar to soften the paint. This works on paint spills as well.

What about the paint can? Smudge a bit of the paint color on the lid so you know exactly what’s inside once you close it up. Also mark how much paint is left on the outside of the can. Ready to store? Seal the can tightly, then turn it upside down to form an even tighter seal.

What paint cleanup tricks work wonders for you? Share here!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Refrigerator Organization

As I’ve mentioned in previous posts, nothing makes me happier than good old organized living. (Haven’t we already established I’m a dork?) And nothing makes me more upset than when I can’t find something, especially in the fridge. Just ask my roommate. She’s heard many a rant about how I swear it was right there and now it’s vanished. (And it always turns out that whatever I needed was right behind the pickle jar or huge tub of salsa my mom thought I needed.)

So in an attempt to end all that frustration, I’ve adopted a few refrigerator organization rules. And by golly I swear I’ll never lose the ketchup again.

1. Clean the fridge once a week. And, yes, this means taking everything out of the fridge and tossing items that have expired or will expire soon. If you don’t live in an apartment and have the luxury of a dumpster sitting outside your building, you should do this the night before your trash is picked up. (You don’t want leftovers smelling up the garbage for a week!) While everything is out of the fridge, you should also take the time to wipe everything down with warm, soapy water. And don’t use chemicals—they’ll leech into your food and cause myriad health problems down the road.
2. Place everything in its designated compartment. Fridge manufacturers have made this pretty easy on you. Put the veggies in the veggie crisper, the meat in the meat tray, and the cheese in the cheese compartment. Now’s the time to designate areas for all the other varieties of foods, too. Give your milk a place—preferably not on the warmer door where it’ll spoil faster—and your leftovers a shelf. HGTV can tell you the best places to store other foods.
3. Set boundaries. If all your leftovers don’t fit on the designated shelf, force yourself to get rid of something. You probably won’t eat that two-week-old meatloaf anyway. Some organizational experts even suggest placing specific food types—like salad dressings or taco supplies—in their own plastic container. If the containers get full, toss something.
4. Use clear glass containers. I hate opening a tub of food only to find moldy, smelly leftovers. Rather than hope and pray that what you’re about to open is the mac and cheese from last night and not the Chinese food from a month ago, put everything in see-through containers. Know what else I hate? Scrubbing and scrubbing and scrubbing a plastic dish in an attempt to make it stop smelling like last week’s spaghetti. Use glass containers that won’t soak up the smell, like these snazzy ones from Pyrex.
5. Organize by perishability (that’s not a word, but you get the idea). Take a cue from professional chefs and physicists. Place the most perishable items—think poultry, fish, raw meat, and dairy products—on the bottom of the refrigerator. It’s the coldest spot because—as you learned in your high-school physics class—heat rises. Stack less perishable foods on top. And even though a chef or physics teacher may not suggest this, I’d recommend keeping items like nail polish, exposed film, or eye masks in the fridge’s warmest locales—like the butter compartment, door, or top shelf.

Whew. How’s that fridge look now? I must admit, every time I open my well-organized fridge I get a little giddy.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Cool Pet Beds

Pet Murphy Bed
Photo courtesy Midnight Pass

I used to think pet beds were pretty basic—a long, plump cushion, for example. Maybe that’s because that’s what my friends’ pets sleep on. Plus, my parents’ toy poodle prefers napping on people’s laps or on a blanket when no one’s around.

But boy, was I wrong. After looking at websites filled with canopy beds, chaise lounges—you name it (I even saw a bunk bed at one point)—I’m sitting at my computer in a state of awe. With the abundance of options available, there’s a bed for every pet personality. Seriously.

Here’s a quick sampling of what I found:

Dreaming in Green. That’s right—even pet beds are going eco-friendly now. Just check out the Hemp Striped Beds  ($120.00–$160.00; price varies based on size) from Harry Barker. The traditional-style beds are covered in vibrant striped fabric (choose from green, orange, brown, blue, and red), which contains natural dyes. Even better, these cozy beds are filled with fiber made from recycled post consumer plastic bottles. Also check out the SmartyKat LoveBucket cat bed, made with a recycled fiber blend (each bed uses roughly 11 recycled 1-liter soda bottles). I’m sold. Now if only I could sneak a pet into my apartment…

Furniture Fashion. When I was in college, I adored my best friend’s giant papasan chair. Never mind that it consumed most of her room; it was the most comfortable seat ever. And now you can let your feline friends experience the same comfort, thanks to the Atmosphere Cat Bed ($99.99) from Felinerina. This furniture-like bed features an overstuffed cushion and ergonomically designed spherical shape—perfect for any catnap. But perhaps best of all, it won’t stick out like a sore thumb in your house. And what’s not to love about that?

Pet Murphy Bed
Photo courtesy Midnight Pass

The Great Outdoors. Does Bowser snooze outdoors? If so, you want to choose a bed that can stand up to the elements—after all, who wants to sleep on a mildew-ridden bed? That’s why the Molly B. Outdoor Bed ($90.00 to $150.00, depending on size) from DogBedWorks comes in handy. Made of Crypton Outdoor Fabric, this bed resists stains, odors, and moisture. Plus, it’s easy to clean and comfy to boot. I especially love the fresh green patterned fabric, which makes it just as pretty as it is practical.

Beauty Sleep. Gone are the days when traditional cushion-style pet beds solely reigned. If you think Bowser and Squeakers deserve true beds, there are myriad miniature beds out there made specifically for pets. And I think these luxurious beds put my modest double bed to shame. In fact, I know they do.

Take the Spring Pillow-Top Pet Bed and Iron Frame Set from Target ($119.99-$199.99), for example. Or there’s the Sand Chenille Mahogany Sleigh Bed ($319.95) and the ever-so-luxe Black Chenille Canopy Bed ($249.95), both from Glamour Dog. Oh, and if you’re looking for a chic, space-saving option, you have to check out the Pet Murphy Bed ($279.95) from Midnight Pass. By day, it’s a normal piece of furniture. But at night it folds down so Fido can snooze.

What cool/outrageous/practical/fun pet beds have you spotted recently?

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Vacuum Buying Guide

Who’d have thought buying a vacuum would be so complicated? I recently set out on a vacuum-buying adventure, and man was it frustrating. There are just so many decisions! Hoover, Bissel, Eureka, Dyson, Oreck, Kenmore, or Kirby? Upright, canister, or central? And it doesn’t help that vacuums range in price from $40 to more than $800. How’s a girl supposed to know what’s best?

To save you the same hassle, I took notes when I went shopping. Here’s hoping when you go to the store, you’ll know exactly what you want!

Upright
After a long search, I eventually decided on an upright. They’re the most common and often the easiest to store. But they can get heavy—some weigh as much as 20 pounds. This means they’re not necessarily the best choice if your home is riddled with staircases. Lucky for me, my apartment is just one level.

Most upright models come with a cleaning path of 12 to 15 inches wide. They also have carpet-height adjustments, headlights, and standard attachments. If you’re willing to spend a little more money, you can get a HEPA system filter, reducing the amount of dirt recycled by the vacuum. If you have allergies or just like breathing clean air, I’d strongly recommend a HEPA filtered vacuum cleaner. Don’t trust me? Read this article.

You can also opt for a bagless vacuum cleaner. Though some models have more of a tendency to clog than a vacuum cleaner with a bag, if you purchase a model that really works, you’ll save money on purchasing bags.

For the most bang for your buck, I’d suggest the Eureka Boss SmartVac 4870HZ ($150). It comes with a HEPA filter, wide cleaning path, and an extra-long cord, but it isn’t bagless. If you’d rather have a bagless vacuum, you’re better off with the Kenmore Progressive 36932, though it’s slightly more pricey at $350.

I chose the Eureka 431BX ($60) because it’s the perfect size for an apartment—with its telescope handle, it’s easy to squeeze into tight spaces. Plus, it’s sparkly green, and who doesn’t love that?

Canister
Canister vacuum cleaners are great for homes that have a combination of hardwood and carpet. They’re also handy for floor-to-ceiling cleaning and reaching beneath furniture. Because the vacuum is separated from the canister, they’re easier to maneuver and often quieter than upright vacuums.

If you’re in the market for a lightweight, easy-to-carry vacuum, I’d consider the Miele Capricorn 5980 ($1,199). Yes, it’s pretty expensive, but it comes with multiple tools and nozzles, a HEPA filter, and a 29.5-foot operating radius. If that’s too costly (trust me, I understand!), go with the Bosch Premium Electro Duo instead. It also comes with a HEPA filter and several tools, but it only costs $799. 

Central
Now, if you’re sick of all this vacuum cleaner talk, maybe it’s time you installed a central vacuum cleaning system. With this system, you can vacuum the entire house but never have to lift a clunky vacuum cleaner again. Small receptors that look similar to an outlet are placed in convenient locations throughout the home. By plugging in a hose to those receptors, you can vacuum anywhere in your house. Though you’ll probably have to hire a professional to install the system, it can save you time and money in the end. Read a complete overview of central vacuums at Howstuffworks.com.

Anymore vacuum questions? Don’t be afraid to ask!

Until Tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Inspiring Organization Blogs

On tap for the inspirational blog list du jour? Organization blogs. That’s right. Spend some time checking out the links below, and I bet you’ll be itching to tackle some decluttering and rearranging around your own home. But don’t take my word for it. Spend some time perusing the posts yourself. And be sure to fill me in on what great organization blogs I missed—I know there are plenty more out there!

Unclutterer
Simply Stated by Real Simple
Organized Home
Organized with Style
Get Organized!
Orderly Manor

Looking for more? Check out Organize magazine’s blogroll for a whole list of great blogs worth visiting. And while you’re at it, why not take a peek at some of my favorite gardening, bath design, and kitchen design blogs too?

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Help Me Find A Good Desk!

The only thing I really wanted for my 13th birthday was a great desk—one with lots of drawers, tons of surface space, and a stylish design to boot. I know my mom ravaged every furniture store, office supply store, and garage sale to find me one, but to my dismay, what she found never did live up to my dreams.
Still today, I’ve yet to find a truly amazing desk. Sure, I’ve found some pretty awesome ones that cost six trillion dollars—like this cleverly designed one. Unless I win the lottery soon, I’ll never be able to afford it.

Maybe you can help, though. Here’s what I think every desk is incomplete without—now can you point me toward more great options?

• Storage. Organization is a must, so a good desk should have plenty of storage opportunities. This desk from Pottery Barn is full of drawers, slots, and cubbies, and its L-shaped design makes it space friendly. Filing cabinets—like these from The Container Store—can easily be slipped under the desk for added storage, or you can add shelves above the desk.
• Surface Space. I like lots of elbowroom, so a desk that lacks room to move about is a no-go. This desk from West Elm has ample surface space. And CB2 offers a nice desk as well.
• Style. It doesn’t seem fair to skimp on style just to get the right features. Industrial-type desks are everywhere, but they often look clunky in a home or apartment. For style, I especially like Legare Furniture’s smooth lines and no-tools philosophy.

Now, I know you’ve got some other ideas, so please, fill me in. A girl can only search for so long without assistance!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Organize It: Linen Closet

I’m ashamed to admit it, but I actually like to clean. This may make me a huge dork, but you have to agree—being in an organized room is uplifting, relaxing, and encouraging. Don’t just take my word for it, though. Ariane Benefit, an organizing coach from Bloomfield, NJ, lists 10 reasons how clutter badly affects your life on her blog. Trust me, you don’t want any of those things happening to you, so you better start cleaning now.

Here are five easy steps to tackle that messy linen closet you’ve been meaning to get to for quite sometime.

1. Get it outta there. Don’t try to cheat by just pulling out a couple of items at one time. By removing everything from your closet, you can actually take stock of your full inventory—and you may find a few things you’ve been missing.
2. Give it a scrub. It makes no sense to put your clean linens in a dirty closet, so give it a good washing. Dust every shelf and even vacuum the floor. If your shelves are unstained, lay contact paper over them—unfinished wood can color linens.
3. Divide and separate. Make piles for all your linen types, throwing away or donating all unnecessary items. As a general rule, keep two sets of sheets for every bed in your house (maybe one extra to serve as a drop cloth) and two sets of towels per person per week. If you’ve inherited antique linens, get them out of the closet by reusing them in a way that won’t harm them. For a few tips, check out this article.
4. Origami. Folding linens is a true art form. By arranging them in just the right fashion, you save space and make your closet look a little tidier. Try folding towels in thirds lengthwise and then folding them in a square. Consider hanging your tablecloths on the back of the door to save space and keep them wrinkle-free. I especially like this rack from The Container Store. And organize your sheets by slipping the set into a coordinating pillowcase to make sure nothing gets lost. If you want more tips on how to fold everything from a dress shirt to a fitted sheet, check out Real Simple’s tutorials or the step-by-step instructions for folding sheets on our blog.
5. Putting it all away. Now here comes the tricky part. Storing towers of bath towels and rolls of toilet paper is not the easiest task. Using shelf dividers like this one keeps your towels from toppling over, and organizing toilet paper and cleaning rags in crunch cans puts them at easy reach. Stack towels with the folded edge out, so they’re easier to grab, and limit the number of items you stack on one shelf. Cramming too many towels or tablecloths on a shelf will make it harder for you to grab them.

When it’s all said and done, stand back and admire your hard work. Now, every time you reach for a washcloth you’ll not only find it, you’ll also feel a little more peaceful.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Secrets to Garage Sale Success

Photo courtesy of James A. Stepp,
Lexicon Media
I love a good garage sale as much as the next girl—my grandma gave me that gene—but there’s nothing I adore more than clearing out items I don’t need anymore. If you’re ready to get rid of belongings that are gathering dust, you’re in luck: It’s garage sale season. Ready for some secrets to make certain your sale is a success? Here we go.

Get Ready
Give yourself plenty of time to get organized by planning a couple weeks in advance. When it comes to figuring out what to hold onto and what to get rid of, try these tricks.

Photo courtesy of James A. Stepp,
Lexicon Media

Besides getting your belongings together, also make sure you have the supplies you need to set up and run the sale. This might include tables for displaying items, tags or stickers for marking prices on items, cash and change for making sales (and something secure to keep it in), and sign-making supplies.

Think Teamwork
Nothing entices garage-sale regulars like a group sale, so get together with your neighborhood or a few family friends. You’ll have a wider range of stuff to display, and when someone stops by for your friend’s toddler clothing, he or she might notice your CD collection too.

Organize
No one wants to dig through your junk to find the one item they might buy. Hang t-shirts, blouses, jackets, pants, and shorts from a clothesline and neatly fold all other clothing items. Display smaller objects—like jewelry, books, and toys—on a tablecloth-covered table. And try not to put anything on the ground—items will get noticed more if they are closer to eye level.

Price Correctly
Make it easy on yourself by pricing items in dime, quarter, and dollar increments. You don’t want to waste time counting change. And because you want to sell your clutter, don’t overprice it. Typically, it’s best to go with one-fifth the price you paid for it, but you can probably get away with one-third on children’s clothing.

Photo courtesy of James A. Stepp,
Lexicon Media

Advertise Place an ad in the newspaper and hang signs at high-traffic intersections, making sure your address is clearly displayed. Nothing irks me more than driving by a garage-sale sign that’s illegible.

Involve the Kids
Let your kids sell bottled water, pop, or lemonade at the sale, or if they’re old enough, let them make change for your customers. Who can resist the charms of cute kids?

Timing
Proper garage-sale etiquette says not to open a second before the time you advertise. You’ll tick a lot of people off by letting that early bird snatch up all the good deals before it’s time to open. And when you close, promptly take down all your signs.

Finally, have fun—just think of all the fabulous things you can do with that extra cash. Oh, and if everything doesn’t sell, rather than lugging it back into the house, take it to the curb and place a “free” sign on it. Give items away to friends or a charity. Or recycle. I don’t care what you do—just don’t let it clutter your house any longer!

Want to learn more? Check out the Queen of Yard Sales. She’s got a list of more than 30 tips, advice on how to avoid scams, and a few whacky yard sale stories.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Green Your Garage

You’re recycling water bottles and cans. You’ve switched to green cleaning supplies. And you’ve had a home energy audit. Perhaps you’re even harvesting rainwater. But what about greening the garage?

Yep, the garage. It’s an oft-overlooked area of the house when it comes to going green, but it’s also one of the most important, because it’s often loaded with hazardous household waste (HHW). In fact, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, the average home accumulates as much as 100 pounds of it in the garage each year. And besides being a big source of clutter, all that HHW can be dangerous too—particularly if items get spilled or if their fumes make their way into your house.

Fortunately, getting rid of all that HHW in your garage—and properly storing what you need to keep—is easier than you might think. Here’s where to start:

Paint. Leftover paint releases harmful gases—unless, of course, you look for no-VOC versions. Your best bet is to use up leftovers on projects around the house or donate leftover paint to a nonprofit that can use it right away (find out where these nonprofits are at Earth911.org). If you want to hold onto your paint for future uses, secure the lid by tapping it in place with a hammer until it’s sealed; turning it upside down so the paint forms a seal around the lid is a good idea too. Greenyour.com provides more handy pointers for properly disposing of paint if you want to learn more.

Garden gear. Conventional fertilizers and household pesticides are not friendly—unless, of course, you call fertilizer runoff damaging waterways and pesticide exposure causing asthma, cancer, and more friendly. Get rid of nasty yard-related chemicals by purchasing the exact amount you need for your yard. Or, better yet, opt for natural weed and pest control.

Car products. Rather than handling and disposing of motor oil and antifreeze yourself, take these items to a dealership or repair shop where they can be recycled (or just stop changing oil and such yourself and have a mechanic handle them for you). If you have used motor oil at your house that you need to recycle, pour it through a funnel into a specialized storage container from an auto parts store. While you’re at it, remember to recycle car batteries, oil filters, and brake fluids too. And if you green your lawnmower you can cut back on HHW even more—with solar-, electric-, or man-powered models, there’s no fuel required!

Now, before I leave you to tackle your garage clutter, also remember a few general safety pointers:

• Leave product labels intact and be sure to follow the storage instructions on the label
• Whatever you do, don’t mix products!
• Buy containers with childproof lids or store HHW containers in locked cabinets.
• Soak up spills on the garage floor with cat litter, sand, or sawdust.
• Keep flammable products well away from sources of heat (like electrical outlets).

Learn more on properly storing and disposing of HHW from Earth911.org.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Creative Small-Space Organizing

As I write this post, I’m mentally plotting my big evening project: Organizing the clothes in my bedroom—the ones stacked in multiple piles because they won’t fit in my already-overstuffed closet. Because, honestly, I’m sick of the mess (and digging around for my favorite jeans when I’m rushing to get ready).

Armed with the clear plastic storage containers I bought this weekend, my plan of attack involves tapping into the unused space under my bed. It’s the perfect spot: Not only is my bed pushed up against a wall, but I have a long bed skirt to tastefully conceal the clutter. I wish I would’ve thought about this sooner!

Basically, I’m always on a mission to organize all my stuff in a way that’s visually appealing—which can be tricky, given my limited floor space. That’s why I’m a frequent visitor to this BHG photo gallery which is packed with ideas for apartment living, such as using a fabric panel to conceal bookshelves and buying storage ottomans (which is where I keep some of my magazines).

About a month ago, I tackled my desk clutter thanks to this hutch, which perfectly matches my desk. The cubbies aren’t huge, but they’re perfect for books, stationary, and loose odds and ends. Plus, they provide the right amount of display space.

If you’re short on storage space, consider spots where you normally wouldn’t think to stash storage bins—these are storage opportunities too good to pass up. For example, do you have space above your kitchen cabinets? Line it with stylish storage boxes filled with infrequently used kitchen essentials (you’ll want to keep the ones you use every day close at hand). And make the most of cabinet and closet doors: over-the-door hanging racks allow you to contain accessories, shoes, utensils, you name it in a very limited space.

Got an empty wall? Put it to good use by mounting shelves to corral all your stuff, a la Blueprint editor Sarah Humphreys’ stylish storage. And notice how she uses cool containers to corral loose odds and ends?

Before I head off to attend to my disaster of a bedroom, I’ll leave you with one last resource: Apartment Therapy. Simply search for “small-space organizing,” and you’ll find myriad storage/organization ideas to try out in your humble abode.

For all you apartment-dwellers and other readers dealing with small living spaces, what creative organization strategies do you use? I’m looking for more projects.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Natural Weed Control

When it comes to yard work, weeds are the bane of every homeowner’s existence—especially when you invest a lot of time and effort to get your yard in tip-top shape. And doesn’t it seem like they pop up when you least expect it?

Rather than dousing problem spots with herbicides (which can have adverse effects on human and pet health—not to mention they’re dangerous for the environment), take a natural approach toward weed control with these eco-friendly strategies:

Hand-weeding. Roll up your sleeves and grab your kneeling pad. If you’ve got a small lawn, a little elbow grease is the best way to wage war on weeds. The key is to get them when they’re young, before they flower. And make sure the soil is moist—it aids removal. If they’re invading cracks in your driveway, sidewalk, or patio, scrape them out with a screwdriver or putty knife. For weeds taking over your lawn, use a sharp spade or garden fork to pry weeds upward while pulling the weed up at the same time. Make sure you get the entire root, or else a new crop of weeds will sprout. And to maintain the appearance of your lawn, smooth the soil and patch the area with lawn seed. Read more about pulling weeds.

Photo courtesy of James A. Stepp,
Lexicon Media

Mulch. Aside from mulch’s other benefits, a good layer of organic mulch prevents light from reaching weed seeds—and it also provides moisture for your plants and soil. To really help the environment (and get rid of that stack of old papers taking up space indoors), use old newspapers as mulch. Yes, it really works!

Healthy lawn. A healthy lawn is one of your best defenses against weeds. That’s where fertilizing, aerating, and mowing come into play. Test the pH of your soil—a neutral pH benefits grass but isn’t good for weeds—and fertilize regularly (with a natural product, of course!).
If your soil is compacted, it’s time to aerate. Aerating your lawn helps water and nutrients reach grass. And while mowing, raise your mower blade (and make sure it’s sharp). Keeping the height of your lawn around 3-4 inches—shades weed seeds, preventing sunlight from reaching them and allowing them to germinate. Master gardener Paul James explains more about keeping your lawn in tip-top shape and controlling weeds.

Corn gluten meal. A byproduct of the corn milling process, corn gluten meal is a natural weed suppressant developed by Iowa State University researcher Dr. Nick Christians. How does it work? Whenever a weed seed opens to sprout, the corn gluten meal dries it out so it can’t germinate. Because it is an alternative to synthetic pre-emergence herbicides, know that it only works on seeds—not on existing weeds. Learn all about it here.

DIY remedies. Boil water and pour it over weeds (but make sure to do this in areas with no nearby grass or plants). Or, spray weeds with highly acidic liquids such as vinegar or lemon juice.

Soil solarization. This non-chemical strategy involves putting transparent plastic sheeting over tilled soil during the warmest, sunniest two months of the year. Solar solarization helps eliminate weeds (and improve overall soil quality) by trapping heat. Get ready to help your soil soak up the sun: Clemson Extension explains how to set up solarization.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

All About Mopping

I’ve never given mopping a whole lot of thought (beyond the few minutes I spend on the task weekly, if my floors are lucky). But after a friendly reader asked a mopping-related question and I started doing some digging looking for an answer, I discovered there’s more to mopping than meets the eye. Hence, the topic of this post. Here’s the rundown:

Mopping is likely a key component of your cleaning if you have hard-surface floors made of materials such as tile, stone, vinyl, laminate, and linoleum. First you sweep, then you mop.

Cleaning these floors may involve using a dry mop (for dust, pet hair, and dirt that sweeping or vacuuming missed), as well as a wet mop for scrubbing and more thorough cleaning.

Dry mops typically have a shaggy cloth head that’s removable (look for ones that can be washed and reused). You’ll likely spray them with cleaner made especially for attracting dust (mine came with my new laminate floor).

Wet mops may have heads made of a sponge, rags, or terry cloth. Sponge and terry cloth mops are handy for smooth surfaces that aren’t considerably large; string mops make covering a large floor easier and quicker.

Traditional mopping involves filling a bucket or the sink with warm water and a mopping solution, cleaning the floor, rinsing the mop once you’re finished, and allowing the floor to dry. If you opt for this technique, bone up on the steps at About.com.

Today, a variety of mopping options exist with the goal—or so say the marketers—of making our lives easier (because I guess mopping with water is really hard). One of the most popular is the Swiffer Wet Jet. The starter kit comes with a reusable Wet Jet Powermop, disposable cleaning pads, and a bottle of multipurpose floor cleaning solution. All you do is attach a fresh cleaning pad and you’re off. According to Swiffer, the super-absorbent pad is preferable to regular mopping because the pad picks up dirt rather than pushing it around.

The Swiffer isn’t the only option out there, however. Clorox offers a similar kit with its ReadyMop Mopping System.

Many of the mopping options on the market today aren’t exactly environmentally friendly. The disposable pads are wasteful, the chemicals in the cleaners aren’t good for your health or the health of the environment … I could go on. But I’ll spare you. (At least for today.)

That’s what makes the Bissell Steam Mop such a great options—it offers chemical-free cleaning and no disposable parts! Or, if you don’t want to fork over the cash for a steam mop and like the convenience of products such as the Swiffer Wet Jet, try the Method omop instead. It’s a nontoxic microfiber floor care kit that includes an ergonomic mop, compostable corn-based sweeping cloths, a reusable microfiber mop pad, and nontoxic and biodegradable floor cleaner. Even the packaging is environmentally friendly—the cleaning liquid is in a 100 percent recycled plastic bottle, and the whole kit is packaged in a box made of bamboo fiber and recycled paper that can be composted or recycled.

Or, better yet, purchase a reusable mop made of recycled content (you can find them made from plastic bottles, yarn, you name it) and use your own earth-friendly floor cleaner. Here’s an easy recipe: combine 1 cup white vinegar with 2 gallons warm water in a bucket. Mop away and rinse. Voilà! Clean floors and no chemicals!

But wait—I’m not quite done with this missive on mopping yet. I have a few more important points to make.

If your reusable mop is getting stinky, don’t toss it. Try this.

And if you’re unsure about what to do with that dirty mop water? I did some searching to try to uncover what the best option is. Some people pour it down the drain. Others say you should flush it down the toilet so you don’t pour dirty mop water in the sink. Sadly, I couldn’t come up with a definitive answer as to which is better. Except I’d say that if you use environmentally friendly cleaning products, the dilemma about what you’re dumping back into the waterways via the toilet or sink will be less disconcerting. (Oh, and if you use garden-friendly low-phosphate cleaners you might even be able to dump that water in your garden—which, come to think of it, may just be the best option, in my humble opinion.)

OK. Now I’m done. Happy mopping!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Outdoor Storage Ideas

Garages, basements, and attics can only hold so much stuff. And when it comes to storing outdoor essentials such as garden gear, patio furniture, and recreation equipment, who really wants to waste time digging around the basement? That’s where outdoor storage options come into play—they corral your stuff where you need it most. Try these storage ideas:

Storage shed. These tried-and-true units are the most common form of outdoor storage—and they come in many shapes and sizes to fit even the smallest of yards. They’re made from a variety of materials, such as wood, vinyl, and metal, and you have several installation options: you can purchase DIY kits, you can build one from scratch using mail-order plans, or you can hire someone to build it for you. Regardless of which route you choose, This Old House provides all the info you need to be storage-shed savvy.
Storage sheds—especially prefab ones—often get a bad rap for their not-so-attractive appearance. But today’s sheds blend function with flair. Want to build a cottage-like shed that’ll serve as the focal point of your yard (and wow your neighbors)? Check out the plans from Popular Mechanic. Or if you want to dress up an existing prefab shed, Southern Living shows how.

Under the deck. Have a multilevel deck? Don’t let the space underneath go to waste. With the right prep, you can transform that under-deck area into a storage unit. The key is to keep everything protected from the elements—there’s no point tossing a bunch of stuff under the deck if it’s going to get soggy. Install a vinyl covering or a waterproof membrane below the deck and deck lattice along the sides.

Garden bench. If you and your family spend a large chunk of time outdoors, or if you entertain frequently, chances are you can always use more seating. Benches with built-in storage allow you to get the best of both worlds. Storage benches come in a variety of finishes, so you can find one that matches your outdoor decor—just make sure it’s water resistant. I especially like this teak bench/trunk from Frontgate. Not only does it have an attractive finish, its slatted bottom lets fresh air circulate inside to deter icky mold or mildew growth.

Home exterior. Seeking a small-space storage solution? If you don’t want a storage shed, try transforming an unused exterior wall into a place for tools using just a few basic materials. HGTV Garden Expert Marianne Binetti explains how.

How else do your store your outdoor gear? Have a stylish shed you’re particularly proud of? Spill the details here!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Organize It: Clothes Closets

I don’t know about you, but I think it’s time to get out the spring clothes and banish my sweaters to the basement for another year. (Of course, the fact that there was a chance of snow last weekend should deter me, but it’s spring so I’m going to forge ahead anyway!)

While I’m swapping out my wardrobe, I figure it’s a great time to bone up on some closet-organizing pointers. Here are a few keys for keeping your clothes closet in shape:

Declutter first. Of course! I plan on removing everything from my closet, piling it all on my bed, and sorting everything into piles. It’s the save, toss, or donate approach I’m so fond of. One pile will go to the thrift store, another will get stored until next year, and a third will go back in the closet. The goal, according to Lowe’s, should be to leave about 15 percent of your closet space free. (Then you have an excuse to go shopping!)

Get rid of wire hangers. Before you put a single garment back in your closet, toss those crappy wire hangers you’re using. They’re free from the dry cleaner for a reason. Instead, invest in quality wood and padded hangers. What to do with the old wire ones? Unclutterer has the answer.

Store frequently used items at the right height. As you begin returning things to your closet, make certain the clothes, accessories, and shoes that see the most frequent use are stored between shoulder- and knee-height. That way it’s easy to spot things, get them out, and return them to their proper place.

Double up. Even if your closet is tiny, you can pack twice as many clothes in it if you install double rods. A common arrangement is to hang blouses and jackets on the top and skirts and pants on the bottom. Or forgo that second rod in favor of some portable drawers, shoe racks, open shelves, or other organization tools for taking advantage of that floor space.

Reach for it. Use hard-to-reach space at the top of the closet for storing out-of-season or infrequently worn items. It’s the perfect spot to stash scarves until next winter or that box containing your wedding dress until … well, until you feel the need to see if you can still fit in it.

Use tools. Hanging rods aren’t the only means of storing items in your closet. Stash purses, accessories, and such in small baskets or canvas storage bins. Those over-the-door shoe holders can be used for holding all sorts of smaller items—and shoes too, of course. Tie racks, belt hooks, and hanging shelves all come in handy too. Shop around at Spacesavers and The Container Store for ideas.

Think outside the closet. You can only fit so much in a closet, regardless of the organizational pointers you press into use. So take advantage of other available space—behind the door, underneath the bed, even outside the bedroom—for items that won’t fit in the closet. (And if you have a giant walk-in closet and still can’t fit everything? See the first pointer above—it’s time to downsize!)

Looking to learn more? You can’t beat all the closet organization pointers Real Simple offers. And Life Organizers provides a slew of articles on creating a happy, tidy closet. Although this Organized Home article was written for autumn, it applies just as nicely to spring too.

If your closet clutter is so overwhelming that you don’t think you’ll be able to tackle it on your own, Simply Stated provides info to help you figure out when it’s time to hire help.

Keep reading too—soon we’ll post on great products to help you keep everything in your closet in place.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All