The Home Know-It-All

Keep Your Refrigerator Smelling New

My wife and I just moved out of our apartment, which brought with it the necessity to venture into the long-neglected recesses of our refrigerator. It quickly became clear that we had not been especially diligent in keeping our refrigerator at its cleanest or best-smelling. 

It's easy to lose track of how long food has been refrigerated, and it doesn't take long before the resulting smells seem ingrained in the very composition of the refrigerator. Here are a few easy tips for getting rid of those unwanted odors without replacing your fridge or using harsh chemicals. 

Conduct a thorough cleaning. 

Empty your refrigerator and scrub the interior with a mixture of water and baking soda. This should remove any trace of forgotten spills or food bits that have slipped through the cracks and gone unnoticed. Though it's a difficult space to reach, cleaning underneath your fridge will have a significant effect on smell too—fans under the fridge can bring outside odors in. 

Freshen the air. 

There are several ways to try freshening your fridge's air. One is to place activated charcoal in a small bowl at the back of your refrigerator to start pulling residual smells out. The traditional open container of baking soda is a tried-and-true method that works well too. Though unorthodox, you may even consider putting a small amount of clean, unscented kitty litter in the fridge as a means to absorb smells. Vanilla extract and fresh coffee grounds can also absorb unwanted scents when placed in the fridge. 

Toss the old food. 

Though it's difficult to remember the expiration dates on everything that enters your fridge, it's worthwhile to try. If something has gone bad or you suspect it has passed its prime—pitch it! The unpleasant odors in the fridge come from decomposing food—not something you want to keep alongside your future meals. 

Find out how long your food stays safe when the power goes out.

Until next time, 

The Home Know-It-All

Driveway Landscaping Techniques

Though your driveway may be far from your mind when you're thinking of home renovation, it remains one of the first things visitors or prospective buyers see. Add curb appeal and make your driveway the entrance your home deserves with the following techniques. 

Hit the pavement. 

Unfortunately, no amount of beautiful foliage is going to distract from a decrepit driveway. If you've been putting off having it repaired or re-paved, bite the bullet and have it done professionally. For gravel driveways, a fresh load of gravel will help fill in any rain-washed gullies or erosion, and you can cut professional costs by getting out the shovel and spreading it yourself. 

Feature fresh fauna.

Planting colorful, resilient flowers along each side of your driveway is an easy way to give it a fresh look. One possibility is planting Liriope—an inexpensive and quick-to-grow evergreen lily, which has a natural tendency to clump together and provide carpet-like coverage. They'll bloom in white or lavender. Be sure not to plant the creeping variant (Liriope spicata), which will spread uncontrollably. 

You can also freshen up your driveway by placing large, decorative terra cotta planters at its entrance and using them to display seasonal flowers.

Light up your landing. 

Solar post lights installed along your driveway and walkways provide an affordable and energy-efficient lighting option that will improve both safety and aesthetics. If you're concerned about contributing to light pollution in your neighborhood, consider landscape lighting options with "dark-sky friendly features," specifically designed to reduce scattered light and glare. For additional tips on landscape lighting, take a drive through the Home Know-It-All archives. 

Until next time, 

The Home Know-It-All

Starting Out With Septic Tanks

Those who live in the city and enjoy the comparative luxury of public water may be unfamiliar with the use or existence of septic tanks. For those that make the move to suburbia or the countryside, however, a working knowledge of septic tank systems is handy.

What it is:
A septic tank is an underground apparatus that breaks down and disposes of human wastewater. A home's toilets, showers, and sinks are piped into the tank, where bacteria digest any solids that enter. The remaining liquid passes through a leach field (a network of perforated pipes that disperse the liquid into the soil). Ideally, wastewater then percolates through the soil, becoming relatively pure before encountering groundwater.

Common problems:
One of the most common issues with septic tanks is wastewater backup. This stems from the soil surrounding the leach field becoming saturated or clogged, preventing the tank's wastewater from exiting. The traffic jam causes sewage to back up into the house's plumbing fixtures. Ugly.

Soggy, smelly earth and standing water around your tank are good indications that you have a septic problem. 

Maintenance: 
Experts recommend having your septic tank pumped every few years, but smaller systems will require more frequent pumping. It generally costs a few hundred dollars to have the tank professionally pumped. But you can extend the time between pumps and the overall life of your system if you avoid disposing of hazardous chemicals in your sink and toilet. Waste that doesn't break down naturally will clog your system, while some chemicals like bleach kill the bacteria your tank needs. 

Installing a new septic tank can cost several thousand dollars, so if you plan to purchase a home with a septic tank, verify your contract demands a septic inspection and pumping. 

For a more in-depth guide to septic systems, pay the EPA a visit.  

Until next time, 
The Home Know-It-All

Go Nuts for Black Walnuts

Every fall, I find a lot of green and black golf-ball-size nuts rolling around the bed of my truck. I always considered these inconsiderate hitchhikers little more than fodder for the squirrels and a recurring nuisance for me. 

But the squirrels are on to something. 

Black walnuts are a free, healthy, and tasty snack.

Collecting. It's easy to know when walnut picking season is in full force, largely because walnuts are all over the ground. Generally, they'll start dropping in late September to early October. You can shake the smaller trees to get the ripe ones off, but be gentle. Never pick them straight off the tree or you'll damage it. 

Wear gloves and work clothes when collecting and preparing these nuts; they leave an indelible brown stain on anything they touch. If you're feeling creative, put that stain to use as an all-natural dye for cloth or yarn. Some even argue it makes for an excellent hair dye. 

You'll know when the walnuts are ripe if you can squeeze the outer husk (which should be in a transitional stage between green and black in color) and an indentation is left behind. 

Removing the Husk. While some prefer to drive over the walnuts with a car to de-husk them, this technique is messy and can stain your driveway. Another method is to drill a 1 5/8-inch hole in a thick piece of plywood, then use a hammer to force the walnut through to remove the husk. And never store the nuts with the husk on—they'll start to decompose, causing the nut to taste bitter.

Processing. Take your de-husked walnuts and wash them to remove juice and debris. When thrown in a bucket of water, bad nuts (unfilled shells) float and good nuts sink to the bottom. Keep the sinkers. 

Curing. Stack the remaining nuts in shallow layers, out of direct sun, and in a cool, dry place for two weeks. After that time, break open a sample nut—its kernel should break crisply with an audible snap. 

Shelling. Soak the nuts for a few hours in hot water to make shelling easier. Because the shells are very tough, an ordinary nutcracker will almost certainly not be enough. Try a brick, hammer, or a vise. 

Enjoy your walnuts!

Until next time,
The Home Know-It-All

Create Your Home Emergency Kit

Better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.

This old axiom imparts an important message about emergency preparedness: It takes effort, but during times of crisis, your foresight will be appreciated. Here's how to assemble a home emergency survival kit that you'll hopefully never need. 

Water
More than anything else, drinkable water is of paramount importance. Dehydration can happen under any weather conditions and within a surprisingly short amount of time. You should also supply enough water to maintain basic hygiene (about one gallon per person, per day). Keep your water in well-sealed containers (2-liter soda bottles work well) and empty and refill with fresh water every year.

Light
Include a reliable light source. Choose a flashlight that can be recharged by cranking or shaking because it doesn't require fresh batteries.  

Food
Dehydrated fruit, smoked or dried meat, nuts, hard candy, canned or jarred fruits and vegetables, pasta, and crackers all have a respectable shelf life and are a good starting point for your emergency food supplies. MREs or 'Meals Ready to Eat' are another option. They are pre-packaged, self-contained meals—a favorite of the military for their shelf life, high transportability, calorie count, and ease of use. Civilian variants are commercially available but tend to be expensive. 

Heat source/cooking apparatus 
If your home does not have a wood or gas-powered cook stove, you may want to include a small propane camp stove in your survival kit. These may not be safe for use indoors so check the instructions before use.

Communication 
Both hardwired and cell phones may prove less-than-reliable during natural disasters, but having a battery-powered radio will, at the very least, keep you informed of what's happening outside. 

Until next time, 

The Home Know-It-All

Have a Wonderful 4th of July!

Sandpaper 101

Like duct tape, sandpaper is one of those handy-dandy instruments that fits almost endless applications and is a venerable member of our 'emergency fix-it' tool kit. But how much do we really know about our abrasive friend? 

Grading systems

There are three grading systems for abrasives (the proper title for sandpaper).

1. FEPA: These are the most common abrasives worldwide, and are indicated by the P that precedes a number on the backside of your sandpaper sheet. In this grading system, the grit of sandpaper is determined by the specific range of grain sizes used in its manufacture. 


2. CAMI: Used exclusively by US abrasives manufacturers, this system determines what grit an abrasive is by the average particle size used in its fabrication. 


3. Micron: Gauges an abrasive by each particle's diameter in micrometers for precision not found in other abrasives.

Grit size

In all but Micron-graded abrasives, the larger the number is, the finer the grit. For example, in the case of FEPA-graded sandpaper, P24 would be much coarser than P500. Coarser sandpaper is best suited for jobs where aggressive removal of material is necessary. If you have an old picnic table covered in several layers of paint, using a coarser grit will get the job done much faster than using a finer grit. 

However, if you are preparing an unfinished woodworking project to accept stain, you will want to use a finer grit abrasive to ensure the smoothest finish. 

Generally, you'll want to use several grits of abrasives on a project—starting with a coarser grit sandpaper and working your way incrementally towards a very fine sandpaper before applying a finish. 

To apply your newfound sandpaper knowledge, take a peek at The Home Know-It-All's suggestions on repairing and refinishing wooden window frames. 

Until next time, 

The Home Know-It-All