The Home Know-It-All

Caring for Furniture Part 4: Fabric Furniture

It’s time for the last edition in our “Caring for Furniture” series. (I know—it’s very sad. But what other type of furniture is there? If you think of one, let us know. We’ll be sure to cover it, too.)

These days most upholstered furniture comes with a stain- or soil-repellent finish, which gives you time to grab a rag and blot up your spilled soda or melted chocolate. What’s that you say? Your stinkin’ sofa didn’t come with a repellent? No problem. You can apply one yourself. Try Custom-Gard or Scotchgard, but be sure to read the label carefully to make sure it’s compatible with your fabric.

Even with a repellent, however, stains still happen. When they do, use stain removers with caution. As this article points out, bleach is never an option for fabric furniture even if you think it’s white, and fancy oxygen cleaners like Oxy Clean may not be a good idea either. (Although they’re great for other household stains, they’re often so potent they’ll remove your fabric’s color as well.)

The next time you spot a stain, take water to it first. Using a white rag, blot it and cover when finished so it doesn’t attract dust and dirt. Most of the time that’ll do the trick, but if you have a particularly stubborn stain, spray a small amount of Spray ’N Wash on the area, and then go at it with water.

To keep your fabric furniture in mint condition, vacuum it weekly using the fabric attachments. If you have pets, use a lint roller to keep hair in check.

Notice a rip or tear while cleaning? Fix it as soon as possible with advice from this article.

For more reading and additional care suggestions, check out this article.

Until Monday,
The Home Know-It-All

Cool Green Tools

Conserving water and energy at home is an ongoing task for two groups of people: the ecologically-minded and the budget-focused. Whether you categorize yourself as one or both (as so many folks do these days), it never hurts to have a little help on your conquest to conserve.

That’s why I tracked down these cool tools designed to help you reduce your use. Try one—or all—of them as part of The Home Know-It-All’s Green Around the House Challenge and start saving!

Black & Decker Thermal Leak Detector
Hunting down air leaks is as easy as pointing and shooting this handy tool. Shine the leak detector light on the wall to set a reference temperature, then point it at different areas around your house. The light turns blue to indicate a cold spot and red if it’s hot, so you can easily identify leaks. Then all you have to do is seal and insulate to reduce your heating and cooling costs by up to 20 percent! Price: $39.99. Learn more: blackanddecker.com

Belkin Conserve Energy-Saving Surge Protector
Plugged-in home electronics suck energy even if they’re not in use. But unplugging all those appliances and gadgets all the time can be a real pain. And who wants to unplug the DVR when you’ll miss recording your favorite shows, anyway? Lucky us, both problems are solved with the Belkin Conserve. Plug everything into this surge protector and all you have to do is switch it off with the included remote control to stop power flow. Best of all, two of the plugs stay active even when the others are shut off, so you can keep items such as clocks, wireless Internet routers, or your precious DVR box on all the time. Price: $50–$60. Learn more: belkin.com/conserve

Watt Stopper Passive Infrared Wall Switch Vacancy Sensor
It happens to the best of us—you rush out of the house only to discover hours later upon your return that you left all of the lights in the house blazing. Fortunately, forgetting to switch off the lights when you leave the room isn’t a problem anymore if you install this sensor. It switches them off automatically after a room has been vacant for 30 minutes—and you can still flick the switch yourself whenever you please too. Price: $36. Learn more: wattstopper.com

Versaline Disappearing Clothesline
One of the easiest ways to save energy when it’s laundry time is to stop using the dryer altogether. As GreenYour points out, air-drying some or all of your wet laundry saves you as much as $135 in energy costs every year, prevents tons of CO2 from entering the atmosphere, and results in less wear on your clothing. Plus line-dried clothes smell so darn good. The problem is, some of us don’t have a yard for or don’t want the permanence of an in-ground line. Fortunately, the Aussies know what to do. They created this disappearing clothesline, which can be mounted any distance apart up to 16.5 feet and disappears out of sight when it’s not in use—just remove it from its brackets and store it in the cupboard. Price: $180–$200. Learn more: clotheslineshop.com

Brondell Perfect Flush
This one won’t be available until May, but I wanted to share it with you anyway because it’s going to be worth the wait. When installed (which should take less than half an hour), this handy gadget turns your everyday toilet into a dual-flush model. A two-button control allows you to dispense less water to flush liquids and more for solids, which can cut your household water use by up to 50 percent. Price: To be determined. Learn more: brondell.com

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

For the Birds

I have a few friends that are scared stiff at the mere sight of a bird. Personally, I don’t get it. Birds control pests, help pollinate plants, spread seeds, and some of them—orioles, blue jays, and gold finches to name a few—are downright beautiful. (The jury is still out on the turkey, however. Pretty unsightly if you ask me.) But the bottom line is: Birds are so helpful they can’t possibly be scary. 

If you’re on my side in this matter, consider hanging a bird feeder to bring the benefits of the birds to your yard—or at least lure them away from my not-so-bird-friendly friends. Here’s a rundown of the different bird feeder types.

Perching
These bird feeders attract swallows, orioles, finches, mockingbirds, and many other perching birds. Hung or mounted at five to six feet off the ground (an ideal height for most species), they usually consist of a central chamber filled with seed and multiple feeding ports. Load with black-oil sunflower or thistle seed to attract the widest variety of birds. My favorites are the Squirrel-Proof Perching Feeder ($39.95) from Plow & Hearth and the Blue Confetti Recycled Glass Bird Feeder ($36.00) from Cool Garden Things.

Platform
Because of their broad feeding platforms, these feeders attract ground-feeding birds—like sparrows, juncos, doves, and grosbeak. They can sit directly on the ground or be elevated a couple feet. Fill these with white proso millet or black-oil sunflower seeds. Try the Vasse Vaught Copper Gothic Bird Feeder ($89.99) or the Duncraft Champion ($64.95).

Hummingbird
Most hummingbird feeders consist of a glass or plastic reservoir and several spouts for drinking. There are a wide variety of hummingbird feeders available, but most bird experts agree that no one works better than another. Look for a feeder that’s easy to clean and assemble and has a minimum number of parts. And remember to keep it filled with fresh nectar. (Go here for a recipe.) I like the Perky-Pet Blossom Top Fill Humming Bird Feeder ($23.65) and the Birdscapes Garden Ballet Feeder.

Feel free to send pictures of bird sightings—don’t worry, I won’t be frightened.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Green Candles

Sure, green-hued candles are nice. But green candles—as in, environmentally friendly pillars and tea lights adding ambience to your home—are even nicer. And that’s what I’m talking about in today’s Green Around the House Challenge.

What’s wrong with standard candles? Plenty. Let’s start with paraffin, the most common candle ingredient. It’s a petroleum byproduct—in other words, even if you ride your bike to the store to buy those pretty candles to burn, you’re relying on fossil fuels.

And if your candles are scented, you’re also putting your health at risk. That’s because many scented candles contain synthetic fragrances. (Specifically, they contain chemicals such as phthalates, which have been shown to disrupt hormones.)

Another dangerous culprit in these seemingly benign products: the wicks. Not all wicks are bad, but some candlewicks contain lead and release soot and toxins into the air when they’re burned. (And, as Umbra points out, like anything that burns, candles give off particles and vapors that can irritate your respiratory system.) In the United States, candle manufacturers voluntarily stopped using lead wicks for this very reason. But if your candles weren’t made in the United States, they may still have lead in the wicks. (Click Umbra’s name above to learn how you can test your wicks to see if they include lead.)

So what’s a candle-lover to do? Never fear, because you don’t have to forsake your candle habit altogether. As is the case with much of what we’re including in our Green Around the House Challenge, you just have to shop smarter:

Buy natural candles. Beeswax candles are naturally fragrant, nontoxic, soot-free, and allergen-free (just make sure you’re buying candles made from 100 percent beeswax). And, as long as the bee population doesn’t diminish anymore, beeswax is a renewable resource. Soy is another candle option that’s biodegradable, vegan, soot-free, and long-lasting. Or look for clean-burning wax made from palm oil (palm oil comes from coconuts, so no living plants are destroyed in the making of the oil).

Watch out for synthetic scents. Your best bet is to purchase unscented candles. But I’m a realist and I know that part of the allure of candles is the wonderful scent they give off (even when they’re not burning—the soy candles sitting in the sconces on my dining room wall emit a wonderful aroma every time I walk by them). So if you can’t do without yummy smells, at least opt for those light sticks that get their scents from essential oils.

Avoid lead-containing wicks. Enough said.

Recycle. Yep, you read that right. Although they may be made from paraffin, recycled candles are an environmentally friendly option because you’re reusing candle wax that was already produced rather than buying new. So make your own or buy recycled. Some candle-makers—like my friend Cara who sells her Mary Marie line of candles at Etsy—even use old glass jars, mugs, and the like for containing their candles. Now that’s eco-friendly!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Remodeling Financing Options

Current economic conditions are inspiring more people to remodel and repair their existing homes rather than buy new. Because whether you’re overhauling your kitchen to give it a more bright, open look or adding on a much-needed bedroom, remodeling projects increase your home’s value.

Determining what improvements you want to make is one thing; figuring out how you’re going to pay for it all is quite another. Here are the financing options you’ll want to consider:

Cash. Paying with cold, hard cash can be an attractive option if you’re planning a small-scale project—or if you’ve been purposely socking away cash to finally finish your basement. You won’t be charged interest or rack up debt like you would with other options (debt-free is the way to be, I always say). But you still want to think twice before tapping into your personal savings. After all, you’re using money that would normally be earning interest—and could be used for other purposes such as college. Plus, you can’t write off project expenses paid in cash. If you do go this route, continue to faithfully stash cash into your personal savings account to ensure you have a viable safety net to cover unexpected expenses.

Credit card. Another option that’s best suited for smaller, less-costly projects. Swiping plastic subjects you to high interest rates and late fees if you default on payments—and there’s no tax deductions available. According to Credit.com, the best strategy is to charge the project to a card with a high credit limit and low interest rate.

Home equity line of credit (HELOC). This is a form of revolving credit where your home becomes collateral. You pay interest only on what you use as you draw from this line of credit—and the interest is tax-deductible. But because there’s a variable interest rate with this type of financing, payment rates fluctuate based on prime interest rates (and that makes it hard to budget on a monthly basis). With a HELOC, you’re approved for a specific amount of credit—a percentage of your home’s appraised value (often 75 to 80 percent, according to the National Association of Home Builders). That amount is subtracted from the balance owed on the existing mortgage. Other factors affecting your credit limit include your income, debts, and your credit history. Learn more about this option here.

Home equity loan. Planning a one-time project? With a home equity loan, you get the entire loan up-front and gradually pay it off. Plus, you won’t have to worry about the interest rate wavering with this loan, because it’s fixed (making it easier to budget into your monthly finances!). Be sure to agree to terms you know you can afford.

Cash-out refinance. With a cash-out refinance, you replace your current mortgage with a larger one, using the extra cash to pay for the project. Payments are spread out over time. Plus there’s often a lower interest rate than with home equity financing. When considering this option, pay attention to up-front costs: application, appraisals, and title insurance, as well as the number of years left on your current mortgage.

203 (k) mortgage. If your older, fixer-upper home is seriously in need of rehabilitation and modernization, you’ll want to look into a 203 (k) mortgage. Why? You can refinance the existing mortgage and combine it with home improvement costs into a new mortgage, therefore avoiding high interest rates associated with interim financing. The loan is based on the home’s projected value after improvements are made. A 203 (k) mortgage is administered through the Federal Housing Administration. Learn more on the Department of Housing and Urban Development website.

Personal loan. A personal loan isn’t tied to your home—it’s usually tied to collateral such as savings accounts, stocks, bonds, and more. With this option, you can borrow as much as $25,000. However, you’ll probably acquire a high interest rate (often higher than with other options). The interest isn’t tax-deductible. Shop around to find the lowest interest rate.

Want to know more about the options available to you? Visit the National Association of Home Builders and Service Magic for more details. You’ll also want to seriously consider consulting your financial advisor before reaching a decision.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Quick Cabinet Upgrades

My cabinets are not in good shape. We’re talking drawers that don’t close all the way and cabinet faces that are peeling off in places. Not to mention the fact they’re dated as all get out. But I like the layout of my kitchen and the configuration of most of the cabinets. And I don’t have the cash to spend on redoing our kitchen right now anyway (really, who does?).

So I’m looking for ways to make do with what I have. Depending on the type of cabinets in your kitchen, these quick fixes might work for you too.

Deep-clean your cabinets. If your cabinets are in good shape and the style suits your taste, perhaps all they need is a good scrubbing. With some soap, water, and elbow grease you can chase away years of grease and grime and have your cabinets looking good as new in no time.

Replace cabinet hardware. This is one we’ve discussed before because it’s one of the easiest, least expensive ways to update your cabinetry. Learn about cabinet hardware options, then place an order!

Refinish ’em. Refinishing won’t work for me since the top layer of my cabinets is peeling away in places, but if your cabinets are in good shape, painting or staining them (after you clean them, of course) may be all that’s needed. And it can be done in a long weekend.

Reface ’em. One of my best bets for whipping my kitchen into shape without gutting it involves refacing my current cabinets with veneer. That means pulling away all that ugly veneer that’s peeling off now and replacing it with new stuff. My neighbors recently refaced their cabinets—which were a lot like mine—and added new wood cabinet doors. The transformation was amazing—and cost much less than a complete cabinet replacement. Learn how you can tackle refacing yourself from Rockler Woodworking and Hardware.

Have a BLAST. Cabinet BLAST, a new St. Louis-based company, offers an easy DIY alternative to refacing. The company’s custom-made decorative panels are easy to install and can be removed without damaging the cabinets, so even renters can spiff up their kitchens. Unfortunately, this option won’t work for me either. But if you had the right cabinets for it, I recommend checking out the copper inserts. Some of them are pretty cool. (And you can request free samples!)

Dream away. If temporary solutions won’t cut it, grin and bear those ugly cabinets for a while longer. And in the meantime, start saving your money and gathering ideas from books, magazines, friends’ homes, and more. Learning about the differences between stock, semi-custom, and custom cabinetry is a great place to start.

Until Monday,
The Home Know-It-All

Caring for Furniture Part 3: Leather Furniture

It’s time for another edition of Caring for Furniture. On the agenda for this week: Leather. It’s one of the most durable materials you can choose for your furniture, but it’s also one of the pickiest when it comes to products used to clean it. Use these do’s and don’ts to keep your leather furniture looking snazzy right into the next century. 

Do wipe down your furniture with a damp, white cloth once a month or even once a week. Leather needs to be re-hydrated regularly to prevent cracks and lessen the likelihood of scratches. Always dry immediately.

Don’t use leather conditioners with oils, waxes, or silicones. Modern tanning techniques no longer require the replenishing of these substances.

Do use a good-quality, water-based foam cleaner once a year to remove any dust or grime that’s built up. Try LTT Leather Care’s shampoo.

Don’t place your leather furniture in direct sunlight or heat to prevent premature fading. 

Do apply a leather protectant after cleaning with shampoo to stop the transfer of dyes from clothing and prevent body oils from soaking into the material. Try Leather Master Protection Cream.

Don’t use baby wipes or other cleaning wipes on the leather because they’ll eventually eat away at it. 

Do test out all shampoos and protectants on an unseen location before applying to the entire surface.

Don’t try everything yourself. Sometimes a professional is the only one who can tackle a particular stain, and if your couch suffers from dog- or cat-scratch fever, it’s best if an expert fixes it.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

4 Top-Secret Bargain Hunting Tips

I’ve been pinching my pennies a little tighter for the last year or so, and in my quest to be as frugal as possible, I’ve discovered a few secrets that have kept me well within my budget. Take a crack at them yourself, and if you have any inside tips of your own, by all means, share!

4. Get to know the sales associates. The friendlier you are, the more likely the sales associate is to let you know the $150 lamp you’re about to purchase is going on sale next week for $50. So remember your Ps and Qs, and always smile like you mean it. Don’t be afraid to ask—in the most polite voice you can muster—if the clerk knows of any upcoming sales or if that curtain rod is the cheapest you’re going to find it. And to thank the worker for all the helpful advice, purchase something small once and awhile.

3. Sign up for email alerts. I’ll admit it—I hate having needless emails clog my inbox. Every so often, however, messages from retailers boast great insider tips or offers. (Extra 30% off anyone? Yes, please!) Stores like J.Crew.com and UrbanOutfitters.com all send out these e-newsletters, so subscribe now by setting up an account with your favorites. Just don’t get too carried away, or you’ll never see the bottom of your inbox again.

2. Etsy. It’s my new favorite obsession, and it should be yours too! According to the website, “Etsy is an online marketplace for buying and selling all things handmade,” so it’s kind of like eBay for crafty people. And it’s a great place for frugal buyers like myself to visit. You can often find handmade, one-of-a-kind pieces at great prices, and if you enjoy buying locally, Etsy will even narrow down retailers in your region. 

1. Keep an open mind. There’s some sort of cosmic curse that makes it virtually impossible to find what you’re looking for right when you need it. If you’re on the hunt for the perfect end table, realize that you may have to settle for the not-so-perfect version if you’re working with limited funds. In the end, what you thought was the bee’s knees in a catalog may be just so-so in your actual home anyway. 

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Growing Seeds from Scratch

Looking out upon the piles of dirty snow blanketing the grass, spring—and its abundance of colorful blooms—seems so far away. Sigh.

It makes your green thumb itch with anticipation, doesn’t it? Luckily, you don’t have to wait until spring to put that green thumb to good use. Because even if Jack Frost maintains his chilly grip on winter, you can still get a head start on your gardening now … indoors, that is. And I’m not talking about watering the houseplants, either (although I am a firm believer in houseplants).

Instead, I’m talking about growing seeds and transplanting them outdoors when the weather permits. Cultivating a garden from scratch is a rewarding activity, as you get to nurture a few seeds into a full-grown plant and enjoy the beautiful (and sometimes edible) results.

Successful propagation requires the right growing conditions because seeds are so fragile. You’ll want to give them plenty of room, good air circulation, warm temperatures, and ample sunlight. Complete with pictures, this step-by-step Fine Gardening article spells out everything you need to do to start.

Ready to stock up on seeds? Visit your local garden supply store or check out these great online seed resources:

• Burpee: All-purpose seeds
• Seeds of Change: Certified organic seeds
• Seed Savers Exchange: Heirloom seeds

Happy early gardening!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Heat Things Up With Pellet Stoves

Lower winter energy bills, heat individual rooms, and reduce the amount of waste that goes to the landfill—all at once. Sound too good to be true?

Actually, it isn’t, thanks to a little something called a pellet stove. Think of it like a fireplace insert or freestanding stove—these devices typically heat individual rooms rather than the entire house (although they can do that too), so that you can turn down the thermostat. But instead of wood, they burn pellets: compressed sawdust, corn, wood shavings, and other wood waste that would normally go to the landfill.

A charming alternative to gas or electric heating, pellet stoves don’t require EPA certification because they emit so little pollution. Seriously. And unlike your standard hearth, pellet stoves produce zero creosote.

Here’s how they work: You pour pellets into a refillable hopper. From there, a motorized auger feeds these pellets into a burn pot, where they combust. And that generates much-needed heat. Want to get more technical? Home expert Don Vandervort digs into the intricacies of how a pellet stove operates.

According to Vandevort, pellet stoves can be complicated and require occasional maintenance and regular attention, so you might be better off signing a service contract rather than trying to maintain the stove yourself. Another drawback: If you don’t have a thermostat in every room, the heat from the stove might trick nearby thermostats into thinking the temperature in the area is at the set level. Nearby rooms become cold, and you end up raising your thermostat anyway.

Want to see what they look like—or find one that would suit your home? Check out the pellet stove buying guide at Planet Green. When shopping for a pellet stove, opt for one with a built-in thermostat—this feature ensures better temperature control.

You’ll also want to hop on over to Consumer Reports, where you’ll find all kinds of important considerations for selecting the best stove for your heating needs. For instance, you’ll want to determine fuel costs in your area and whether or not it makes sense to purchase a self-contained firebox insert or a freestanding stove. And just so you’re as informed on the topic as possible, I also recommend reading the U.S. Department of Energy’s Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy guide to wood and pellet heating.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

This Weekend: Build the Best Snowman Ever

I don’t know if the weather where you live is anything like what we’ve been experiencing lately, but if it is, I feel your pain. I’ve about had enough of this bitter cold, and truthfully, I just want to hibernate until springtime.

But that’s no way to treat Mother Nature. This weekend I’ve vowed to get out there and enjoy the mounds of snow hovering at my doorstep—no matter if that means six layers of socks, four scarves, and two hats. So I’m building a snowman, and you can bet that if I must be out in the cold I’m going to build the best looking snowman this side of the Mississippi.

Here’s how I plan to do it:

1. Test the snow for “packability.” No, that’s not a legitimate word, but it’s crucial when it comes to constructing Frosty. The snow must clump together without falling apart and without forming an ice cube. You’ll know if you have good snow the second you feel it.

2. Start rolling. Grab a clump of the white stuff and form a small ball in your hand. Keep adding snow to your ball, being mindful to keep it as round as possible. (This is an essential step. You must keep the ball round, or your snowman will look lopsided when finished.)

3. Keep it tight. As you’re rolling along, pack the snow very firmly. This way your guy—or girl—will bravely face the world for a long time to come. Pack it too loosely, and it’ll fall apart as soon as the wind blows.

4. Get ready for the belly. Once you’ve formed the base—or as I like to think of it, the legs—you’re ready to move to the belly. You’ll follow the same steps with this one, but obviously, you’ll make it a little smaller. Before you roll it on top of your first mound, sprinkle loose snow on the base, so the belly has something to grab onto and hold it in place.  

5. Repeat step four for the head.

6. Make him shine. This is where you get creative. I’m a big fan of grabbing whatever’s in your house to create the face, but you can purchase snowman kits—like this one ($21 on sale) from Duluth Trading Company—if that bogs you down.

The carrot is the obvious choice for the nose, but have fun with it. A spoon, cup, or even a cucumber could work nicely. And the same goes for the rest of the body. I say the more original the snowman the better. Need a muse? Go here or here. And, as always, you better not forget to let me know how it goes.

Until Monday,
The Home Know-It-All

Reduce Static Electricity Today

Snow, ice, and frigid temperatures aside, winter never ceases to shock me. Literally. Thanks to the cold, dry air, a typical evening in my apartment might go something like this:

Plop on my cushy microfiber sofa, lean over to turn on the light. ZAP. <insert choice word here>. Get up a while later to change into workout clothes, zap myself again when I touch the metal closet doorknob. Pull on my coat, hat, boots, and mittens, and unlock the main door. SHOCK. <insert another choice word here>.

Anytime I pull an extra sweatshirt over my head for warmth, I resemble a female Einstein. When I pull extra blankets over my bed at night, I can see the charged flashes, one by one, like fireflies in the summer. Heck, I’ve even shocked my foot a few times when stepping on the metal partition that separates my linoleum kitchen floor from the carpeted dining room.

Speaking of carpet, it doesn’t help that most of my apartment is carpeted. When you walk across a carpet or rug, the electrons from the carpet transfer to you. The result? A negative static charge.

Some days I feel like I can’t escape the static. Or can I?

Determined to put static in its place, I sprayed Static Guard on my couch. It smells icky (so bad that I retreated to another room while it worked its magic), but it provided noticeable results. I don’t shock myself nearly as often when I turn on my lamp now.

And I’m also considering something I should have thought about last winter: a small humidifer or cold-mist vaporizer to increase the moisture circulating throughout my apartment. Because, as it turns out, even though humidifiers can be a bit pricey, they come in compact sizes and have different output ratings to fit a variety of living spaces. Find a humidifer that suits your abode with this handy guide from Lowe’s. Hasta la vista, dry air!

Even smaller steps such as incorporating a variety of leafy indoor plants, putting bowls of water around the house, simmering a large pot of water on the stove, and wearing hand lotion can cut back on static electricity buildup, according to ever-so-helpful Heloise.

Or you can re-examine what you’re wearing. Synthetic fibers are more likely to pick up a static charge. And you can even purchase shoes that reduce static charge. But if you don’t want to go that route, walk barefoot or cover your shoes with aluminum foil. Yes, it actually works, according to the folks at Science Made Simple.

What do you do around the house to reduce static electricity? The Home Know-It-All needs your help!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Caring for Furniture Part 2: Metal Furniture

Back for more tips on furniture care? This week we’re covering the metal variety, and just like with wood furniture, care depends on the specific material. Read on to learn how to maintain chrome, aluminum, bronze, wrought-iron, and stainless-steel furniture.

Chrome
Don’t even think about getting close to your chrome bar seat with a toxic cleaner. It’ll spot, and scratch and look even worse than when you started. Instead, use a commercial product designed to clean chrome—like Blue-Job or Mothers Chrome Polish if the job calls for it. But if you’re just in the mood to give it a nice shine, clean it with a little soap and water, and dry it with a soft cloth immediately to prevent water damage.

Aluminum
Aluminum furniture is often found outside, and that’s because it’s a durable and long-lasting material. Drag your hose over and give it a good spray once a year to knock off any grime that’s accumulated. If dirt and dust still remain, you may need to use mild dish soap as well. To prevent damage from the elements, keep your aluminum furniture in the garage during winter months. If that’s not possible, purchase a cover like one of these from The Cover Store. It’s also a good idea to cover aluminum furniture in oil when the temperatures drop. Motor oil works fine, but cooking oil is better for the environment.

Bronze
Although it’s unlikely you have an entire piece of furniture made from bronze, there may be accents of it on your favorite coffee or dining room table. Keep it dust-free by gently rubbing it with a lint-free cloth, and apply a wax yearly to protect the patina. Certain waxes should only be used on certain patinas because it can lighten dark patinas and darken light patinas. Try Clear Trewax Brand Paste Wax for indoor furniture and Sculpt Nouveau for outdoor furniture. Avoid polishing to keep the wax in place, and understand that green spotting and streaking will occur. It’s a natural occurrence with anything bronze, so embrace it!

Wrought Iron
When it comes to wrought-iron furniture, your biggest opponent is rust. Keep an eye out for any bubbling in the paint, as that’s a sure sign of corrosion. Rub the area lightly with a steel pad and kerosene, being careful to avoid damaging the paint when possible. If needed, apply a coat of enamel paint. When that’s dry, cover it with liquid wax or furniture spray designed specifically for wrought iron to prevent rust in the future.

Stainless Steel
Stainless steel is highly durable, so you can use just about any cleaner, though there are cleaners made specifically for stainless steel. My favorite? Method Stainless Steel Cleaner & Polish Duo. And if you notice any scratches, give your piece of furniture a good rub with a Scotch-Brite Scouring Pad.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Green Your Shower Curtain

Get excited! It’s the first week of the Green Around the House Challenge. And as promised, our first challenge is greening your shower curtain. Why? This everyday object might be causing more problems than you think, starting with air pollution.

I have to admit, I certainly wasn’t thinking green when I bought my shower curtain a couple years ago. I was thinking blue, as in my blue bathroom color scheme. Fortunately, my chic blue-and-white embroidered curtain of choice was made of cotton. But the shower liner reeked of PVC.

Yes, reeked. My bathroom is teeny-tiny, so the liner’s icky, plastic-y odor infiltrated the space within minutes—and lingered. And that’s when I wised up to the dangers of PVC. Here’s why you should too:

The Problem Plastic Revealed
As I mentioned above, that unmistakable stench coming from your shower curtain is polyvinyl chloride (PVC), a (sadly) popular plastic also known as vinyl. PVC is produced with toxic additives that can evaporate or leach out of the product. And it enters your body when you least expect it, whether through inhalation or direct skin or eye contact. This not-so-pleasant plastic has been linked to a slew of nasty health and environmental problems, including cancer, liver damage, and reproductive and immune system problems.

Delightful, eh?

It gets even worse. A recent study by the Center for Health, Environment & Justice, a grassroots environmental organization based in Falls Church, Virginia, revealed disturbing facts about PVC shower curtains—that’s why it’s called Volatile Vinyl. (Download the Volatile Vinyl report here.) According to the report, PVC shower curtains can release as many as 108 volatile organic chemicals (VOCs) into the air you regularly breathe. What’s more, some of these chemicals were found in the air 28 days after a PVC shower curtain was opened and hung. No wonder I got a headache while putting on makeup in the bathroom each morning. That’s a long time, folks!

End the Toxic Relationship—For Good
So, aside from that unmistakable stench, how can you tell if your shower curtain is made from PVC? Look for a “3” within the plastic recycling symbol or check to see if there’s a “V” stamped in the plastic.

If you recently purchased a PVC shower curtain, let it air out for a month before hanging it. Or, if you’re in the market for a new shower curtain but haven’t purchased one yet, shop for an eco-friendly cloth version—try organic cotton or linen (just make sure you have good ventilation to ward off mildew). Another option? Hemp is durable and naturally mildew-resistant. Or try recycled polyester plastic. When shopping for liners, opt for one made of nylon. Launch your search for eco-friendly options at Gaiam, Health Goods, Pristine Planet, and IKEA.

It’s becoming easier than ever to find non-PVC shower curtains and liners, because many major retailers and manufacturers are pulling the plug on the pesky plastic. IKEA, for example, phased out PVC shower curtains 11 years ago, according to U.S. News & World Report.

Of course, once you set your sights on a newer, healthier shower curtain, another issue arises: getting rid of the old one. PVC shower curtains clog already-full landfills because they don’t break down. And they don’t play well with other plastics, making them a challenge to recycle. Green Daily offers some ideas for putting that old vinyl curtain to good use.

Here’s to healthy breathing and safer showers.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Crazy-Busy Cleaning Shortcuts with Donna Smallin

Today I’m pleased to welcome a very special expert guest to The Home Know-It-All. Donna Smallin is an organizing and cleaning expert and the author of eight books on—you guessed it, cleaning and organizing—including her most recent release, The One-Minute Organizer: A to Z Storage Solutions (Storey Publishing, 2008). And she’s here to share her expert shortcuts for cleaning when life gets crazy.

I know I’m excited to hear what Donna has to say because I never seem to have enough time to clean. So let’s get started!

Q: What’s the key to keeping your home clean when you’re time-crunched?

A: I always say it’s a lot easier to keep up than to catch up. It may seem crazy, but the more often you clean the less time you’ll spend overall. If you wipe down the bathroom sink and counters every day, it only takes about 60 seconds every wipe. Then you won’t spend forever scraping dried-on toothpaste when you do clean.

Stash cleaning supplies in spaces around your home so you can clean on the fly. During a television commercial, you can dust in the living room. Cleaning supplies can be hidden behind the TV, behind books on bookshelves, in a drawer, even in a little container underneath your sofa.

Q: What are your favorite speed-cleaning tools?

A: The tools you use can make a really big difference.

I am really hot on microfiber cloths for a lot of reasons. They pick up dirt like nobody’s business. You don’t need to have any cleaning supplies either; you just have the cloth itself. All you do is wet the cloth and squeeze it really dry, then use it to wipe up. Even if it’s dry it does a great job picking up dust. And they’re not disposable—you can actually throw them in the wash.

Oxo makes an extendable microfiber duster. It is the coolest thing. It’s just this long pole with a microfiber mop head at the end. You can extend it and tilt it at a 90-degree angle so you can reach up and dust the fan blades or top shelves without having to get on a ladder. You can also just have it extend straight up to clean cobwebs. I love it. (Oxo Good Grips Microfiber Extendable Duster with Pivoting Head, $17.99, Oxo.com, right)

The other thing I love is the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser foaming cleaner sponge. You have to try this. They’re white sponges, you wet them, you squeeze them dry, and you can wipe off fingerprints around the doorknob, scuffmarks on the molding. It’s amazing what these things clean up. The foaming one is great for cleaning inside the microwave oven and refrigerator or on the stovetop. I have no idea how it works. I usually get it out for a particular job and keep going.

Most people have a professional carpet cleaner come in once a year or every 12 to 18 months depending on how much traffic they have. But you can keep the carpet clean in between professional cleanings. I recently tried the Bissell ProDry carpet cleaner—it’s almost easier than vacuuming. And it leaves the carpets dry in less than 30 minutes. So that’s a pretty cool thing because normally when you clean carpets they can be wet for up to 8 hours. This does a really great job of doing those in-between cleanings.

One other thing I always use: a squeegee. Oxo makes one with a little suction cup so it hangs in the shower. Every time you use the shower, if you use the squeegee on the glass doors and walls, you won’t have spots and it prevents soap scum and mildew on the walls. People always come in and say, how do you keep your glass doors so clean? It’s the squeegee.(Oxo Good Grips All-Purpose Squeegee, $5.99, Oxo.com, right)

Q: How do you get motivated to tackle your least favorite tasks?

A: Time how long it takes to complete cleaning chores you dread. I hate emptying the dishwasher because you have to do it over and over and over. So time yourself. When you realize it only takes 60 seconds to make your bed or 2 minutes to empty the dishwasher, it’s not such a big deal anymore. You just get it done.

Q: Any other time-savers you swear by?

A: Clean your toilets while you sleep. Pour cleaner into your bowl before you go to bed, then in the morning just brush and flush. That way you’re letting the cleaning product do the job for you. That’s true of other things too—when you spray down the shower, if you let it sit and do something else, when you come back to it it’s a lot easier to clean.

Think prevention. Putting mats inside and outside your entryway doors is always a good idea because we track in so much stuff. If you have a lot of carpet and it begins right in the entryway, leave a basket by the door for shoes.

If you sweep the kitchen floor, it’s going to stay cleaner longer. If you get just a little water on your floor and it’s already kind of dirty you really notice the dirt. But if you sweep each night and spill water on the floor it just dries rather than accentuating the dirt.

You may be cooking dinner and waiting for water to boil. Use those few minutes to run some vinegar and water through your coffee maker, unclutter drawers, wipe kitchen cabinets. Even 15 minutes a day ends up being 7 hours a month.

The other thing is that an uncluttered home looks a lot cleaner. Just getting rid of clutter and picking things up will make it look better. And then when you’re ready to clean it’s a lot easier. Just grab a trash bag or box and go through your home looking for things that are taking up space. You don’t use them, you don’t love them. If you really think about it they are just taking up valuable space.

Q: What can we get away with not doing?

A: Don’t clean where you don’t have to. If there’s a spot on the wall, clean the spot, don’t clean the whole wall.

If the job seems too big, just take a piece of the job, whatever that might be. Just spend 15 minutes doing it and see where you get.

Thanks for all the great advice, Donna. I can’t wait to try it out in my house! Come back and visit us soon.

Readers, if you want to learn more cleaning tips and tricks from expert Donna Smallin, be sure to visit her website and check out her books!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-Al

Caring for Furniture Part 1: Wood Furniture

We’re kicking off a new series here at The Home Know-It-All, aimed at keeping your furniture in tip-top shape. This week we’re diving into wood furniture maintenance, and if you know what’s good for your furniture, you’ll come back soon to learn how to care for the rest of it.

Wood furniture can have a few different finishes—namely oil, wax, varnish, and paint. Care regimens vary for each, so follow these guidelines for the best results.

Oil
Oil finish is rubbed directly into the wood furniture with no other type of sealer applied over it. The grain is left exposed, and it lacks sheen. Although oil-finished wood furniture is easily damaged by water, it’s also easy to care for. Simply reapply a layer of oil. Try Danish oil, a mix of polymerized linseed oil, or Watco Stain Oil.  Tung oil also works nicely. Because the oil soaks into the wood, you can apply as many layers as necessary.

Wax
Usually put over an oil finish, wax makes your wood furniture shine and improves durability by taking the brunt of water spots. If the wax layer is damaged, you can easily remove it and apply another coat. Don’t know how? Visit Real Simple to see how it’s done. Even if there’s no water spots or scratches it’s often good to apply a new coat of wax once a year to remove the dirt and dust of daily life. Use a buffing cloth to give your furniture a good shine in the meantime. 

Varnish
A varnished piece of wood furniture is the most waterproof and often the most resilient. But it’s also the hardest to repair. If after a few dents and dings your piece of furniture needs repaired, strip and reapply the varnish, sanding between coats. For a complete tutorial, check out this site.

Paint 
Thoroughly clean your painted wood furniture with soap and water on a regular basis. If the paint begins to chip significantly, you can sand it and repaint. Be sure to apply one or two layers of primer before painting.

Want more information on how to care for your wood furniture? Check out what Lowe’s has to say. And be sure to visit Better Homes & Gardens for advice on dusting and cleaning.

Until Monday,
The Home Know-It-All

Great Indoor Planters

Whether lined up in a row, clustered in groups, or standing solo, planters are an easy way to spruce up a deck or patio. But they also add charm indoors too—especially during winter. And there’s no better time than winter to give your décor a boost with plants and herbs housed in decorative containers. Here are a few of my favorites:

\ White delight. As you very well know by now, I’m a fan of classic style. And that’s why I can’t take my eye off the simple, timeless Wirework Cachepots from Gardener’s Supply Company ($44.95/set of three). The watertight steel pots feature a crisp white finish and are accented by a simple scalloped wirework design. Plus, each planter in the set is a different size—small, medium, and large. The result? A grouped display that adds dimension.

Modern-minded. If your style is more cutting-edge contemporary, then you’ll like the sleek style of the column-shape Self Watering Cubico Flower Pots from Indoor Flower Pots.com (prices range from $29.90–$289.95 depending on size; if you want the sub-irrigation system included, add $60.85). These pots come in a variety of glossy or metallic hues, such as silver, espresso, and scarlet red.

Living art. Whether you hang it above your sofa or place it in your entryway, the Indoor Living Wall Planter from Gardener’s Supply Company ($189) is quite the conversation starter. The planter comes in two forms: an indoor kit, which hangs on the walls, and a freestanding kit, which is a floor display. Both create instant drama. Bonus: watering is easier than you think. Water trickles down from the top reservoir into each pocket, and excess water collects in the bottom tray—not on your furniture.

Au naturel. For a rustic tabletop plant display, try the Carved Wooden Cachepots from Pottery Barn ($24–$34.00, depending on size). Made of renewable solid mango wood, these hand-carved planters add simplicity and warmth.

Taking a stand. Okay—plant stands aren’t exactly containers. But they corral several plants at once and therefore save space. I like the deep finish of the Powell Contemporary Merlot Plant Stand from Stacks and Stacks ($95). It fits neatly in any corner, and there’s a shelf underneath for extra display space.
If you’re really short on space like me, there’s the diminutive Bamboo Tabletop Shelf from Improvements Catalog ($19.97, on sale). Like its name suggests, the tiered shelf’s metal frame resembles bamboo, and its got three shelves to hold your favorite petite plants.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Decorating to Discourage Winter Blues

Melancholy washed over me last week as I took down my cute, apartment-size Christmas tree, packed away my ornaments and decorations, and returned them to their resting spot in my basement storage unit. Once bedecked in festive holiday gear, my apartment suddenly seemed barren and dull. Talk about a letdown.

But it didn’t last for long. I decided to rescue my living space from the winter doldrums by adorning my sofa with a bold new throw, topping my wood entertainment center with a candle display, and displaying the new dishes I got for Christmas. Here are a few other ideas for discouraging the winter blues at home:

Hot hues. Take the chill out of the season by adding a vibrant new color into your decorating scheme, perhaps by painting an accent wall or simply adorning sofas and chairs with punchy pillows. 2009 brings a variety of luscious color trends, such as yellow, purple, hot pink, sapphire, rich brown, orange, and more. Need help deciding which color is best for you—and how to tastefully incorporate it into your decor? Learn more from The Decorating Diva.

Winter whites. There’s something magical about the season’s first glistening snowfall—but when January and February roll around, many of us are sick of the thick white stuff. And while a white decorating scheme might seem an odd choice this time of year, I assure you it’s not. It’s light, bright, and soothing. In fact, a creamy white color scheme and sparkling accessories can actually recapture some of the magic winter holds. Line your tables with white linens and dishes. Create a warm glow with a display of white pillar candles in silver or glass candleholders. Place white roses or other equally creamy flowers in a pretty vase. Those are just a few of the options. Don’t believe me? Then glean winter white decorating inspiration from this Better Homes & Gardens article.

Going green. As I type this, I’m admiring the hearty spider plant perched atop my desk. While the mounds of brown grass outside my window aren’t exactly a pleasant sight, my houseplant’s long, variegated leaves perk me right back up.

In a variety of unique colors and shapes, indoor plants and herbs are an easy way to enliven your indoor décor—especially if they’re housed in a pretty pot or planter—and satiate your green thumb during the winter months. They also improve indoor air quality. Check back soon to learn more about great indoor planters and choosing the best houseplant for your lifestyle.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Take the Green Around the House Challenge

Whether you believe in making New Year’s resolutions or not, you have to admit that the start of a new year is a great time to contemplate positive improvements to your life—and the place you live. That’s why we’re going to present you with a project that we’re calling the Green Around the House Challenge.

Here’s how it’s going to work: At least once every week in 2009, you’ll see a post on The Home Know-It-All related to going green around the house. Some of these ideas will be easy tips you can do in minutes. Others will require a bit more manpower or money. But all will be geared toward making your home a healthier, more environmentally friendly place.

The goal with the Green Around the House Challenge isn’t to overwhelm you with eco-friendly to-dos. That’s why there’s only one per week. We’re all busy with work and family and friends and DIY projects. But one green challenge a week? You have to admit, that’s pretty doable.

We’re going to roll out the first challenge next Tuesday, when Katie fills us in on how to green our shower curtains. And the week after that? Stay tuned for cool green tools that can help you detect air leaks around your house and more. And that’s just for starters.

So get ready to get green. And be sure to share your going green success stories—not to mention the challenges you might face—in the comments section below each blog post. We really do want to hear from you!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Photo Storage Strategies

While looking for batteries in a desk drawer the other day, I came across a stack of photos from my good ol’ college days. And while it was a nice trip down memory lane, it made me wonder where else I’ve randomly stashed photos.

The discovery inspired me to kick off my new year’s resolution of honing my organization skills by sorting and storing all my photos, starting with the fabulous holiday photos I took this year. After all, I want to preserve my memories. If you also need to whip your scads of photos into shape, here’s how:

Digital photos. Perhaps just as alarming as finding random photos in my desk drawer is discovering pictures from 2006 on my digital camera—pictures that were never uploaded onto my computer. Eek! What was I waiting for?

So this past weekend I finally got down to business by uploading most of those images into easy-to-find folders that make logical sense—but not before I replaced the numbered filename with a specific name that’s easy to remember. Then I placed distinct groups of images into clearly labeled folders and subfolders. (To further protect your images, back them up or burn them to a CD—that will be my next step.)

If you want to share your memories with family members in different locations, upload your pics into an online photo album, which eliminates the hassle of emailing. Try Shutterfly or Snapfish. I printed some of my favorite images on my super-cool new photo printer. If you don’t have a photo printer, simply take a memory card, CD, or USB port with your pictures to a photo kiosk at your local retail store and print them there.

Prints. Staring at my piles of photo prints was a bit overwhelming—until I started sorting away. Just like I did with my digital pictures, I arranged my prints into specific categories: Freshman Year, NYC Trip 2007, New Year’s Eve 2008, etc. (It may help to jot down the date of the event on the back of each photo, too. If you label photos, do so with a photo-safe acid-free pen or soft-lead pencil (found at crafts stores) and write with a light touch.) And anytime I came across a particularly cringe-worthy or blurry snapshot, I ditched it so that it didn’t take up valuable space.

Once you’ve got your photos organized, place them in acid-free, lignin-free plastic sleeves that fit into a three-ring binder, photo album, or protective photo storage box such as the Archival Photo Storage Box from The Container Store ($17.99 each), see right. Store your photo albums or containers in a cool, dry area away from moisture.

Negatives. Because the chemical residue on photos can damage negatives, it’s best to store them separately. Use extra precaution when handling negatives: hold them by the edges, as oils from your fingers can harm negatives. Keep negatives in PVC-free plastic negative sleeves inserted in a three-ring binder, and get rid of the paper envelopes they came in—chances are, these envelopes aren’t acid-free. Store your negative sleeves in a cool, dry place with good air circulation. Learn more about safely storing negatives here.

Until tomorrow,
The Home-Know-It-All