Refinishing Wood Floors

Refinishing wood floors is backbreaking work—and that’s no understatement. I spent an entire summer helping refinish the floors in my parents’ 100-year-old house. And let me tell you, after one day of pulling staples, sanding, and re-sanding, I was about to throw in the towel. All that bending, kneeling, stretching—not to mention, sweating—seemed hardly worth it at the time, but boy did those floors look nice when we were finally done. Not only did it restore the home’s original glory, it also increased its value when they were ready to sell it. In the end, I’d have to admit the pain was well worth the results.
Today, I’d refinish another floor in a heartbeat. So if you have a beautiful wood floor hidden beneath grungy carpet or layers of poorly applied stain, I’d urge you to take these steps to refinish it. (Your back will only hurt for a little while.)
Clean
This—I assure you—is the hardest step, especially if you have to pull up carpet or resilient flooring. If you’re dealing with carpet, you’ll have to pull up hundreds of staples. Use diagonal pliers and a crow bar to do this. If you have to remove resilient flooring, be sure to remove the adhesive as well. Use adhesive remover to get the best results and save time later on. Once you’ve removed the extra flooring, sweep the room and cover all light fixtures with trash bags. To keep the rest of your house dust-free, hang a sheet or plastic covering from all doorways.
Caution: Older vinyl or linoleum resilient floors produced before the 1980s may contain asbestos. DO NOT REMOVE THIS FLOORING. Hire a professional to safely get rid of the nasty stuff for you. For more information on asbestos in the home go here.
Sand
Before you sand, make any necessary repairs. Fix warped, deeply stained, or squeaky areas, and fill holes and cracks with putty. You’ll also want to scan the room for any nails. If you can’t pull them out, sink them with a nailset and cover the hole with putty. Now’s the time to measure the thickness of your floor as well. If it’s less than 3/4-inch thick, you should probably hire a professional. You’d hate to see through to your basement when you’re done sanding.
Unless you’re a professional, you probably don’t own a floor sander, so you’ll need to rent one from a tool equipment or home improvement store. For a complete tutorial on how to use a clunky drum sander go here. And because it’s extremely easy to gouge the wood with one, it’s vitally important that you understand how to use a drum sander before you turn it on. (But don’t worry; if I successfully used the thing, you can too.) You’ll want to start sanding with rougher sandpaper (20 or 60 grit) and move to smoother sandpaper (120 grit). When you’re finished, sweep the room with a broom and then a damp cloth to pick up any extra debris.
Stain
If you desire a natural look, apply a clear sealer to the floor, and you’re done. But if you want to darken the wood or bring out the grain, choose a stain. Opt for either a water- or oil-based stain—both have their benefits—and follow the directions on the can as specifically as possible. Look for how many coats to apply and drying time between each. It’s also important to note how long you should wait before moving your furniture back on the floor. Many times, it’s as long as two weeks, and it’s often even longer before you can put your area rug back down.
If you start to feel overwhelmed at all with this labor-intense project, take a break for a while. (It took my family an entire summer to complete the project.) You’ll feel much better once you’ve given your aching legs a rest—and ready to pick up where you left off. For more information on how to refinish your wood floor, go here.
Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All









































