The Home Know-It-All

Going Solar

Rising energy prices. Concern about the environment. With so many reasons to go solar, it’s no wonder that more people are starting to harness the sun’s energy for use in their homes.

Solar energy has long worn two stigmas: one, that it’s expensive; two, that it’s for true-blue, granola-loving environmentalists, not the average Joe.

Wrong and wrong. Solar is going mainstream. And with dropping prices, tax credits, and the possibility of some major long-term savings, it’s a reasonable option for an increasing number of people. Here are the most common home options:

Photovoltaic (PV) solar roofs. Rather than installing a standard roof, you might opt for PV roof panels. These installations are sold in kilowatt increments at a cost of about $8 to $10 per watt; you’ll likely need eight to 10 kilowatts to cover an average home’s energy requirements.

Solar shingles. Like PV systems, solar shingles collect light. But instead of shouting “Look, we’ve gone solar!” like PV panels do, the shingles are designed to blend in a bit better with the other roofs in your neighborhood.

Regardless of which option you choose, you’ll also have to decide whether you’ll rely on solar power alone, go “off the grid,” or a combination of the two. If you go all-solar, you’ll likely have to supplement it with wind, hydro, or geothermal power so you have energy consistently. On the other hand, should you choose to connect the grid, when you hit a cloudy spell you’ll just rely on normal power. And, best of all, if you don’t use all the energy your solar panels or shingles generate, you may be able to sell what’s leftover to the power company so others can use it. Sounds good to me.

Another solar option for the home, solar water heaters use—you guessed it—the sun to generate hot water for your house. Learn more about the benefits of solar water heaters from the U.S. Department of Energy.

Then again, there’s also this DIY option for harnessing the sun’s power. Clever, isn’t it?

If you’re looking for more reasons to think solar, consider this: it can make you happier. And, on the more practical side, according to Ideal Bite, one hour’s worth of the sunlight that hits the earth provides more energy than all the people on the earth use in a whole year. Wow. Plus, they say that by every $1,000 you reduce your yearly energy bills, you’ll increase your home’s value by $20,000. Sign me up.

To get the scoop on whether solar will work for you, visit Findsolar.com, which has worksheets to help you determine what you can do with solar energy in your area, what size of system you might need, cost, and all that important stuff. Or learn more about solar from the Solar Living Institute.

On a smaller scale, rather than plugging in your cell phone, MP3 player, or camera to an electrical outlet, why not recharge them with the Solio solar-powered charger? It’s a start!

Now, whether you intend to harness its power or just soak it up, get out and enjoy the sun this weekend!

Until Monday,
The Home Know-It-All

Installing a Water Garden

Get your green thumb wet this summer with a water garden teeming with pretty fish and plants—this stunning, unexpected landscape feature is sure to make a splash. Water gardens come in all shapes and sizes, whether it’s a large in-ground pond feature or even a tabletop container water garden. But before you dive in, consider these things:

Photo courtesy of James A. Stepp,
Lexicon Media

Selecting a site. The whole point of installing a water garden is for your enjoyment, so position it where you can comfortably view it. The site should receive ample sunlight (at least 6 hours, though if you don’t want plants, you can get a way with a shadier spot) and should be away from heavily shedding plants and trees, or you’ll spend a lot of time picking out debris. Also avoid installing your water garden in a low spot so that runoff won’t seep into and contaminate the water. Most importantly, contact your local utility company and examine local building and zoning codes to brush up on important regulations and restrictions. Once you have the go-ahead, check out iVillage’s step-by-step instructions for creating the base of your in-ground water garden. And hop on over to The Water Garden, LLC for even more detailed installation know-how (you’ll also learn what materials—such as a pond liner and water pump—you might need for your project). Does a container water garden make more sense for you? If so, learn how to create one here.

Photo courtesy of James A. Stepp,
Lexicon Media

Picking plants. When it comes to adding plants, you have three different kinds to consider: submerged, floating, and edging. Submerged plants are potted like container plants and set in the water—they’re an essential source of oxygen, especially if you have fish. Floating plants such as water lilies provide shade and help prevent algae. And edging plants line the perimeter of your pond, helping it blend with your landscape. Learn how to artfully and strategically arrange your plants here. Unfortunately, some plants—such as lotus—can become invasive and can actually overtake your water garden. That’s why it’s important to check with your local Cooperative Extension office before putting plants in your pond, to see which varieties are recommended and which aren’t. In the meantime, browse this list of common water garden plants.

Photo courtesy of James A. Stepp,
Lexicon Media

Choosing fish. If your water garden is pond-size, why not add some colorful fish such as goldfish or koi, the most common water garden varieties? Fish don’t just add color and movement, they also help control mosquitoes and other pests. On average, allow 2 to 3 square feet of room per fish, and be sure to maintain good water quality so your fish thrive (a pond filter helps ensure water is properly oxygenated; you’ll also want to keep pH levels around 6.6 to 8.4). Brush up on caring for your fish (you can even print out a handy Fish Care Chart, too).

What should you do with your garden when cold weather blows in? Stay tuned—at the end of the summer, I’ll explain how to winterize your water garden.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Bathroom Fixtures: Repair or Replace It?

To fix or not to fix? That is the question when it comes to a leaky toilet, a cracked sink, or a stained tub. Bathroom fixtures can be pricey to replace, so it makes sense to research repair options before you rush out and buy a new one. Then again, sometimes those lavatory troubles aren’t worth fixing—only a new fixture will do. Here’s how to figure out the best option for you:

Toilet. If your toilet is clogged, running constantly, or leaking, opt for repairs before you look for a new model. Toilet repairs are often DIY friendly and can be taken care of in a relatively short period of time. Have a broken flush handle? Replacements are available for as little as $5.
Do It Yourself offers repair info for all of your needs. Or try Dixieline’s suggestions. If your toilet tank is cracked, however you’ll need to buy a new tank. And in some cases, a constant leak means the toilet base is cracked and needs replaced. In either instance, unless your toilet is relatively new, it’s probably smart to buy a new toilet—today’s models are much more efficient anyway, so you’ll likely end up saving in the long run on reduced water bills.

Sink and faucet. If your leaky sink originates from the plumbing beneath the sink or the faucet, you can likely tackle repairs depending on the severity of a problem. Learn how to repair a faucet or leaky pipes in no time. A clogged drain might be a problem too—in that case, here’s what to do . Or, when it’s time, you can replace the faucet yourself. If your sink is cracked (which can occur pretty easily with a porcelain sink), you won’t be able to fix it—but you can replace it yourself.

Tub. If your bathroom woes originate from your tub, first check out the pointers offered at Home Tips, which cover fast fixes for porcelain rust (hint: try lemon juice and salt!), faulty pop-up bathtub stoppers, fiberglass bathtub scratches, and more. If a leaky or damaged bathtub spout is the problem, get help from this Reader’s Digest article. Or if scratches or chips are a problem, before you buy a replacement you might want to consider bathtub refinishing, a project that can be done to a damaged porcelain, fiberglass, or cast-iron tub on your own or by a pro. It involves priming, sealing, and painting your tub with a durable, glossy top-coat.

What repair or replacement woes have you experienced? Any options you’d like to know more about? Let me know! And while you’re at it, check out the toilet repair woes faced by Shirin at Things That Go Thump In My Head—I’m faced with a leaky toilet now, and when things go wrong, it’s always nice to have someone to commiserate with!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Inspiring Gardening Blogs

Photo courtesy of James A. Stepp,
Lexicon Media

There comes a time in every do-it-yourselfer’s life when a little inspiration comes in handy. And one of the best sources for inspiration out there these days are DIY bloggers. So, in the coming weeks, look for a smattering of posts dedicated to helping you find inspired blogs on a variety of home-related topics.

What better subject to get things started than gardening—particularly now that spring has fully sprung and we’re on our way to a summer full of blooms?

Whether you’re looking for how-to gardening information or are just searching for beautiful photos of plants you might wish to add to your yard, these blogs can’t be beat:

You Grow Girl
The Illustrated Garden
Gardening Gone Wild
Backyard Gardening Blog
MoZone
Garden Bliss
Eden Makers
Home Gardening Tips
Cold Climate Gardening

Now, I know I barely even skimmed the surface of the multitude of marvelous gardening blogs out there. Do you have one? Or have a slew of favorites bookmarked? Share them here!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Happy Memorial Day!

The Home Know-It-All is taking today off to grill outdoors (and spend the whole day outdoors, hopefully) with family and friends. Enjoy your day off too! I’ll be back on Tuesday.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Easy Ways to Create Curb Appeal

First impressions mean everything. When guests and passersby view your house, what impression does your property send out? An eye-catching, visually appealing exterior is something to be proud of. That’s why boosting your curb appeal is so important—especially if you anticipate selling in the future, because an attractive property will increase you home’s value.

Whip your exterior into shape with these suggestions. Remember: Breaking projects up into small, manageable chunks—as your time and budget allow—is the best way to go, because even just a few design tweaks can make a big impact.

Landscaping. What do a sparse front yard and a scraggly, overgrown landscape have in common? They’re both eyesores. Remedy either problem by filling your yard with pretty beds, borders, and container gardens that inject large doses of color and texture. Define beds (and give them a neater appearance) by edging them with bricks or pavers. And score even more definition with garden structures such as a trellis, bench, or statue—just remember that a few objects go a long way. Try these tips for planning a front-yard landscape. Live in an arid desert area? Yep, you can still landscape away—with the right plants. Read up on desert gardening.

Painting. Giving your home (and trim and shutters too) a new coat of paint easily breathes new life into its appearance. But selecting the right hue can be challenging. For example, if you live in a historic home, you’ll want to stick to an authentic palette. Explore palettes for distinct architectural styles—such as Victorian or Craftsman—here. Regardless of your home’s style, this This Old House article will help you narrow your choices. And when it comes time to select a type of paint, prime yourself (no pun intended) with this exterior paint guide.

Updating the front door. Greet guests in style with a front door that makes a statement. You can find exterior doors in a variety of materials from traditional wood to sturdy steel. Or add timeless character with a salvaged door—the key is to pick one that suits your home’s architectural style. And if your current door is in perfectly good condition, you can still make it stand out by painting it a bold hue or adding transom windows, sidelights, moldings, and more.

Lighting. Illuminate paths and walkways—and the exterior you’ve worked so hard on—with outdoor lighting. Brush up on the types of landscape lighting here.
If you’re in the market for new fixtures, select ones that complement the style and scale of your home. Fixtures with built-in motion detectors enhance safety. Better yet, revive your existing fixtures with these budget-friendly tips from Be Jane.

Adding decorative accents. Top your exterior off with finishing flourishes such as cool new house numbers that are clearly visible from the street. And while you’re at it, why not add a new mailbox? Or frame windows with new shutters? New door hardware—such as knockers, handles, or hinges—instantly enliven a front door.

But that’s not all. Here are some other things you can do—from weekend projects to more time-consuming endeavors:

• Revive your front porch
• Enhance your roof
• Add moldings
• Repair or replace siding (or consider low-maintenance exterior materials)
• Replace windows
• Build an addition

What exterior projects are you tackling this summer—or which would you like to learn more about? Share here!

Until Tuesday,
The Home Know-It-All

Introduction to Outdoor Structures

Looking for a way to give your landscape more definition this summer? You can’t go wrong with outdoor structures such as arbors, gazebos, and pergolas, which can provide shelter, break up expanses of landscaping, provide subtle privacy, shield you from the elements, allow you to wire for sound or hang decorative objects, and more.

All of these structures come in a variety of styles to suit your tastes. When purchasing or building these yard essentials, look to your home for inspiration. Keep your outdoor structure architecturally similar to your home, and stick to the same color and material palette so they blend seamlessly—you want your outdoor structure to look like it’s always been there, not like an afterthought. For example, a rustic-look pergola made of tree limbs will look out of place behind a classic Colonial home. But a more traditional post-and-beam version that’s painted white will look right at home.

Outdoor structures run the gamut from decks and patios to sheds and greenhouses. But today, I’m focusing on arbors, gazebos, and pergolas.

Arbors are tall portal-like structures that can be used to formally announce an entrance or to distinguish a transition between two distinct areas of your yard. These passageways look great standing alone, but you can also attach them to a fence, too. For a classic look, cover your arbor with climbing vines such as clematis, grape, morning glory, or wisteria. Just be sure the structure can support the weight of the vines. Want to build your own arbor? Check out these plans courtesy of Be Jane or Lowe’s. Or if Mediterranean style is more your thing, head on over to this HGTV site.

Pergolas are open-framework, typically freestanding structures that instantly create outdoor rooms—use one to frame an intimate dining area, or even just to define a seating area. And even though they provide little—if any—protection from the elements, they create a sense of structure without feeling overly enclosed. Assemble your own pergola with these instructions from Popular Mechanics.

Gazebos are covered structures without solid walls that are perfect for outdoor entertaining or simply enjoying a garden view (they provide better shelter than a pergola). Though gazebos are typically freestanding structures—allowing you to place them wherever you want to capture a great view—you can also build them into a porch, deck, or pool surround too. HGTV shows how to build a gazebo. If you’re a DIYer, you can also assemble a gazebo from a prefab kit. Or you can always hire a contractor to build one for you. Read up on the pros and cons of common gazebo materials.

And what about structures such as trellises, lattice, and fencing, you might ask? I haven’t forgotten—you can expect a post on structures that increase privacy soon.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Eco-Friendly Outdoor Furnishings

If you’re shopping for outdoor furniture for your deck or patio this spring, consider the benefits of purchasing furnishings made from sustainably harvested or recycled materials. Not only do they look great, but they’ve been made with the environment in mind—and they’re often incredibly durable too.

In the market for recycled materials? Look no further than the website for Gaiam, which sells furniture made from recycled iron, wine barrels, and soda bottles. Loll Designs hawks furnishings constructed of recycled plastic (and wood fiber composite—another eco-friendly option—too).

If you prefer the look of hardwood furnishings, look for chairs, tables, and the like constructed from Forest Stewardship Council-certified wood—the FSC supports environmentally and socially responsible forest management practices that promote healthy forests. Try products from Reforest Teak—their line of FSC-certified outdoor furniture is made from teak that is responsibly grown and harvested, and profits from the sale of the furniture go to ecological reforestation work in Central America.

If you’re being particularly conscientious in your search for environmentally friendly furnishings, selecting the right materials is only one step in the process. You’ll also want to think about the impact the production of the materials has on the environment, how long they’ll last, and what recycling options are available should you choose to get rid of them.

If you haven’t found what you want on the sites above, you can even find some eco-friendly furnishings at stores such as The Home Depot (look for their Eco Options items) and Crate and Barrel (their Eco Arbor line is made from FSC-certified plantation-grown eucalyptus).

Or check out the sustainable offerings of Maku Furnishings and Clean Air Gardening.

What sustainable materials do you swear by? Share here!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Installing a Tub Surround

If your tub/shower enclosure has seen better days, why not give it an update? One of the easiest, cost-effective ways to replace your dingy enclosure is to purchase and install a shower/tub surround kit.

Why panels? These handy kits generally come with three or five pieces. If your enclosure is perfectly square, a three-piece kit (with a back panel and two side panels) is the way to go. But if you’re dealing with crooked walls or walls that aren’t plumb, the five-piece kit (with a back panel, two corner panels, and two end panels) offers more flexibility.

Not only are these panels water-resistant, they’re also easy to clean and will almost instantly revive your bathroom—what’s not to love about that? And they come in a variety of materials, from solid surfacing to pressed fiberglass. Though thicker panels are usually more expensive, they’re more stable and easier to work with.

Prep work. Before getting to work, protect the bottom of your tub from dings and scratches with a heavy cloth. If your current shower interior is solid, flat, and in good structural condition, you can install the panels over the existing material (just be sure to give it a good cleaning first, and scuff tile with sandpaper so it’ll better grip the adhesive). For drywall, cut out damp sections and replace it with a moisture-resistant version. If you’ve got a tile surround, simply stick loose tiles back in place with ceramic-tile adhesive. But if several tiles are loose, just remove them altogether and replace them with moisture-resistant drywall (learn how to remove tile here).

Now comes the tricky part: removing the showerhead, faucet, and spout—as well as other accessories such as wall-mounted shelves or soap dishes. Get started with this Popular Mechanics diagram.

Using a tall piece of cardboard, make a template of the side of the tub with the bath fixtures. Measure the exact locations of the faucet handles, showerhead, and tub spout. Cut holes in the cardboard, hold the cardboard up to the wall to make sure the holes align with the fixture placements, and mark the locations on the surround panels.

(Working around windows can be challenging. See what homebuilder/remodeler Odus Sweetin recommends for framing windows.)

Installation. Measure your walls and trim your panels accordingly. Following manufacturer’s instructions, apply the adhesive, then attach the panels to the walls and let them dry thoroughly. Replace the hardware, and seal joints with caulk. For more detailed instructions, check out Popular Mechanics and This Old House. Or watch this step-by-step video, courtesy of HGTV.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Natural Weed Control

When it comes to yard work, weeds are the bane of every homeowner’s existence—especially when you invest a lot of time and effort to get your yard in tip-top shape. And doesn’t it seem like they pop up when you least expect it?

Rather than dousing problem spots with herbicides (which can have adverse effects on human and pet health—not to mention they’re dangerous for the environment), take a natural approach toward weed control with these eco-friendly strategies:

Hand-weeding. Roll up your sleeves and grab your kneeling pad. If you’ve got a small lawn, a little elbow grease is the best way to wage war on weeds. The key is to get them when they’re young, before they flower. And make sure the soil is moist—it aids removal. If they’re invading cracks in your driveway, sidewalk, or patio, scrape them out with a screwdriver or putty knife. For weeds taking over your lawn, use a sharp spade or garden fork to pry weeds upward while pulling the weed up at the same time. Make sure you get the entire root, or else a new crop of weeds will sprout. And to maintain the appearance of your lawn, smooth the soil and patch the area with lawn seed. Read more about pulling weeds.

Photo courtesy of James A. Stepp,
Lexicon Media

Mulch. Aside from mulch’s other benefits, a good layer of organic mulch prevents light from reaching weed seeds—and it also provides moisture for your plants and soil. To really help the environment (and get rid of that stack of old papers taking up space indoors), use old newspapers as mulch. Yes, it really works!

Healthy lawn. A healthy lawn is one of your best defenses against weeds. That’s where fertilizing, aerating, and mowing come into play. Test the pH of your soil—a neutral pH benefits grass but isn’t good for weeds—and fertilize regularly (with a natural product, of course!).
If your soil is compacted, it’s time to aerate. Aerating your lawn helps water and nutrients reach grass. And while mowing, raise your mower blade (and make sure it’s sharp). Keeping the height of your lawn around 3-4 inches—shades weed seeds, preventing sunlight from reaching them and allowing them to germinate. Master gardener Paul James explains more about keeping your lawn in tip-top shape and controlling weeds.

Corn gluten meal. A byproduct of the corn milling process, corn gluten meal is a natural weed suppressant developed by Iowa State University researcher Dr. Nick Christians. How does it work? Whenever a weed seed opens to sprout, the corn gluten meal dries it out so it can’t germinate. Because it is an alternative to synthetic pre-emergence herbicides, know that it only works on seeds—not on existing weeds. Learn all about it here.

DIY remedies. Boil water and pour it over weeds (but make sure to do this in areas with no nearby grass or plants). Or, spray weeds with highly acidic liquids such as vinegar or lemon juice.

Soil solarization. This non-chemical strategy involves putting transparent plastic sheeting over tilled soil during the warmest, sunniest two months of the year. Solar solarization helps eliminate weeds (and improve overall soil quality) by trapping heat. Get ready to help your soil soak up the sun: Clemson Extension explains how to set up solarization.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Roofing Materials

Recently, I wrote about selecting roofing. Now it’s time to learn about roofing material options. Here’s a rundown on the most common materials.

Photo courtesy of James A. Stepp,
Lexicon Media

Asphalt and composition shingles are known for durability and ease of installation—if you’re installing shingles yourself, this is your most DIY-friendly option. They’re a relatively inexpensive material, but remember that you get what you pay for—these shingles don’t boast the distinctive look as other options (although dimensional products emulate the look of wood shakes), and they are subject to damage in extreme weather. You can get 15 to 30 years of wear from standard-weight shingles if you check and replace damaged ones a couple of times a year; look for heavier shingles if you want your roof to last longer. Learn more about asphalt and composition roofing.

Wood shakes and shingles can be pricey, but you’re purchasing a product known for its distinctive appearance and long lifespan. Prices vary depending on the wood species (consider cedar, which resists decay), the type (shingles are sawn on both sides, shakes may be hand-split), grade (grade 1 is your best bet), and weight (shingles are smaller and lighter). Learn more about cedar shakes and shingles.

Metal roof with asphalt look
Photo courtesy of James A. Stepp,
Lexicon Media

Metal roofing is durable and long-lasting. It may be made from steel, aluminum, or copper (the latter is the priciest option) in styles including standing-seam, corrugated, or faux-shake. If you’re replacing a roof, metal is a great choice because it can even be installed over composition shingles. Because metal conducts heat, however, you’ll need to insulate below the roofing—and you may wish to use reflective coatings too. Learn more about metal roofing.

Tile roofing has a long lifespan and creates a distinctive look, particularly with the abundance of available glaze colors. It’s an energy-efficient, noncombustible option—but it’s also one of the most expensive roofing materials. If you opt for tile, you’ll need to consult with a professional about necessary roof support because the tiles, which are made from pulverized clay and water, are incredibly heavy. Although tile roofing is durable, it’s a good idea to check for cracked or chipped tile a couple of times a year. Learn more about tile roofing.

In addition to these common roofing materials, you might also wish to consider slate, concrete tile, laminated, or rubber composite shingles. Curious to know about any of these? Let me know and I’ll gladly post more!

In the meantime, if you’re looking for more information on roofing materials, This Old House provides an informative rundown. And Do It Yourself offers some handy info too.

What roofing materials do you swear by—and which can you live without? Let me know!

Until Monday,
The Home Know-It-All

Landscape Lighting

Photo courtesy of James A. Stepp,
Lexicon Media

One of the best parts of summer (aside from summer days, of course) is long summer nights spent outdoors with friends and family.

And that’s where landscape lighting comes in—shedding light on and extending the life of alfresco gatherings. Not only does it make your outdoor spaces more functional, it provides safety and security and looks good doing it.

Best of all, outdoor lighting is versatile and can be used for just about every application—mount fixtures on decks, line ’em along pathways and stairs, install waterproof ones in your pond, and suspend them from your tree for a little drama.

LIGHTING TYPES
First, you need to determine which type of lights to install:

Photo courtesy of James A. Stepp,
Lexicon Media

Line-voltage systems are wired directly into your home’s 120-volt AC power (which we use for the rest of our home appliances), and generally require approval from a building inspector. Though line-voltage fixtures are the most traditional, they’re also the most expensive, least safe, and least energy-efficient option.

Low-voltage lights operate on a 12-volt current (making them much safer) and are wired to a transformer that’s connected to your home’s electrical circuit. Your best bet for easy installation is to purchase a low-voltage lighting kit, which contains just about everything you need to set up your lighting scheme.

Kit or not, you should still make a rough sketch of your lighting plan (drawn to scale, of course) before installing line- or low-voltage lights. You might even want to try testing your arrangements with a flashlight first to get the look you desire.

Ready to install? You’ll want to check out this Popular Mechanics installation article first. And I especially like this Reader’s Digest step-by-step guide to landscape lighting, which features detailed pictures and handy layout pointers (such as purchasing a larger transformer than you’ll initially need so you can add lights later on).

Solar fixtures capture the sun’s energy and convert it into electrical power that’s stored in a rechargeable battery. And when night falls, voila—light is released.

Solar lights are low-maintenance gems. They don’t require wiring and are easy to move on a whim, eco-friendly, and cheaper to operate. (Read: They won’t spike your energy bills. At all.) Keep in mind, though, that they need full sun exposure to operate to their full potential (many fixtures provide illumination for as long as 15 hours). Overcast or rainy weather, foliage, and shadows all detract from solar light’s performance, so be mindful of where you place them (and periodically trim back trees and shrubs).

LIGHTING TECHNIQUES

Photo courtesy of James A. Stepp,
Lexicon Media

How you position your lights can make or break your landscape. Make safety and security a top priority when installing your lights, but know that you can achieve some striking effects at the same time—after all, you’re only limited by your imagination. Try these lighting techniques:

Backlighting creates shadows and silhouettes on architectural features such as fences and walls and works especially well with plants and bushes. Aim the light onto a surface behind the object to be lighted.

Uplighting (also known as well lighting) consists of accent lights concealed in the ground, casting light upwards. Install uplights below and to the front of the structure to be illuminated—such as a wall, tree, fence, or other dominant feature—to give it depth and dimension.

Downlighting—when you hang floodlights, spotlights, or other fixtures in overhead structures—illuminates a large area of your yard and provides great security. If you’re using multiple downlights, position each light so that its beams overlap the others, or you’ll get a harsh look.

Shadowing involves spot or floodlights placed at ground level, putting an object’s shadow on the surface behind it.

Moonlighting achieves a dreamy look, because you place the light fixture at the top of a tree. The light radiates downward through the tree’s canopy, casting multiple shadows in all directions.

Path lighting is exactly what it sounds like—low-level fixtures lining the edge of a walkway so that you can see exactly where you’re walking at night.

To get a visual representation of these (and other forms of accent lighting), click here.

One of the best aspects of landscape lighting is that it comes in an abundance of styles to suit your outdoor decorating scheme—and budget, too. That’s why I’ll be posting on cool—and functional—landscape lighting fixtures soon. In the meantime, if you have any lights you recommend, let me know here.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Decorating Sunrooms

Lately I’ve been dreaming of a sunroom at the back of our house, where I can sit and work on sunny days. Whether you have a sunroom yourself or are thinking of building one, remember that decorating sunspaces presents some unique challenges.

Because sunrooms are fully enclosed, you can decorate them much as you would interior spaces. But you also have the option of going for a casual, outdoor-inspired look if you prefer that to a traditional setting.

To decorate your sunroom, take cues from the interior of your home as well as what’s outside. Your sunroom will serve as a transition between the indoors and out, so you want to decorate it in a style that’s complementary to the rooms inside but that also eases people into the more casual landscape of the outdoors beyond.

Regardless of the style you choose, remember that sunrooms typically are subjected to the sun’s rays and temperature extremes more so than other rooms in your house. For this reason, certain fabrics, furnishings, and decorative elements are better than others.

For furniture, you might choose pieces made for outdoor use—think lightweight aluminum, wrought-iron, plastic, wood, and wicker. Then again, you might prefer the comfort of upholstered furnishings like the couches and chairs typically used indoors. If your furnishings are upholstered or if you use pillows and cushions to soften them, make certain the fabrics you select are resistant to mildew and fading—like those offered by Sunbrella and Waverly.

In addition to furnishings and fabrics, your sunroom will benefit from window treatments that soften the expanses of glass, provide privacy, and control light and glare on particularly sunny days. These window treatments might range from roll-up shades or blinds to floor-length fabric curtains depending on your tastes and the style of your space. Whatever the style you choose for your window treatments, make sure this fabric is durable, fade-resistant, and able to withstand repeated washings.

To soften hard floor surfaces and anchor furniture arrangements, purchase area rugs. Because they may be subjected to dirt and grime tracked inside (and, in case you’ve forgotten, lots of sun too), opt for inexpensive rugs that add splashes of color or underscore the style you’re creating. This may include inexpensive, colorful rag rugs; sisal or hemp rugs that are naturally resistant to moisture; easy-care, fade-resistant acrylic rugs; or even a piece of indoor-outdoor carpeting with the edges bound.

Once the basics are in place, don’t forget about the decorative details. Potted plants are the perfect addition to any sunroom—they benefit from ample light and further facilitate the transition to the outdoors. Just as you would with indoor spaces, consider the best placement for end tables, decorative objects, and artwork. You may wish to use lamps for indoor or outdoor use—such as the great versions Kichler offers—rather than ones suited for indoor spaces. They look just as good as other lamps, but are exceptionally durable and come with shades resistant to harsh sunlight. In addition, if you hang artwork, keep in mind that it may be subject to considerable heat and the sun’s rays, so you’re better off adorning the walls with inexpensive pieces rather than rare finds.

Have any great pointers for decorating sunrooms? Or have a sunroom that you absolutely love? Share your comments here.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Kitchen Design Trends - Part II

Giving your kitchen an update is a great way to add value to your home. Last month, I posted about kitchen design trends. But because kitchen design industry is constantly evolving, trends are abundant. So without further ado, here are some more must-haves for your kitchen:

Natural materials and hues. From granite countertops and limestone floors to sky blue walls and deep brown cabinets, more kitchens are bringing nature’s beauty indoors. And it’s no surprise. Natural materials and hues add unparalleled color, texture, and warmth to any kitchen—think bamboo, mahogany, copper, slate, granite, and much more. To really help your kitchen radiate, don’t forget about natural lighting too. Want to learn more about giving your kitchen a natural touch? Kohler explains how.
And why not take the natural approach a step further and go green with your kitchen design using sustainable, recycled, or energy-efficient materials? From recycled-glass countertops to cork flooring, the options are endless. And not only will your kitchen look fabulous, you can rest easy knowing you’re doing your part to help the environment. Read up on eco-friendly kitchen know-how from Green Home Guide. And don’t forget to head on over to The Kitchen Designer blog, which offers valuable resources on green kitchen design, from a complete list of green countertops to general design tips.

Expanded work areas. Kitchens aren’t just for food prep and dining anymore—they’re also a place where you can pay the bills, finish homework, and corral your paperwork. Want proof? This Real Simple article shows how one mom tackled massive paper clutter by transforming a kitchen corner into home office space. Of course, you’ll want to make sure your kitchen can accommodate a workspace—plan for lighting, electrical outlets, cabinetry to corral your clutter (you probably don’t want paperwork staring back at you as you’re preparing the pasta), and more. To keep your workspace accessible without being in the way, see if you can position a desk space at the end of a long countertop or unused corner. And use built-ins to your advantage. To convert your kitchen into a hardworking hub, read up.

Attractive islands. At the hub of today’s ultra-functional kitchen is the multitasking island, which offers ample workspace, storage, a spot for dining, and good looks. And because they’re often the focal point of the kitchen, islands deserve to stand out and make a serious style statement. Glean inspiration from these cool kitchen islands. If you’re looking to install an island in your kitchen, get the lowdown here.

Multimedia. Whether you want to tune in to Rachael Ray for inspiration while making dinner or listen to soft background music while entertaining, you can transform your kitchen into a full multimedia experience with cool gadgets. For example, this LG Refrigerator with Built-In LCD TV features a 13.1-inch screen with stereo sound nestled into an Energy Star-qualified refrigerator. Want a better way to organize your mixed drink recipes for the next time you play bartender? Download food and drink recipes onto your iPod with the Pocket Bar & Grill for your iPod. Pretty nifty, huh?

If you want to incorporate these elements into your kitchen but just don’t have the space (I’m right there with you on limited square footage), keep reading. I’ll post on small-space kitchen solutions soon.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Improve Your Air Conditioner Efficiency

As the temperatures start to soar this summer, chances are you’ll be turning up the air conditioner for cooling relief. But if you want equally soothing relief on your cooling bills, now’s the time to make sure your AC is running efficiently. Plus, you’ll ensure your unit doesn’t break down during a heat wave. Try these tips today:

Call in the pros—a yearly tune-up helps ensure your HVAC unit is in tip-top shape, and a pro can diagnose and treat any problems that you might not be able to see before it’s too late. Be sure your service technician measures airflow, inspects the oil motors and belts, clears the drain, and checks refrigerant levels (low refrigerant levels means your unit has to work harder to operate). To make this a worthwhile investment, the key is to select a reliable technician. Check out Energy Star’s tips for hiring a heating and cooling contractor.

Give it a good cleaning to get rid of debris that can hinder air circulation. For example, trim back trees or shrubs at least two feet from the unit. Remove dirt and debris from the outside face using a vacuum with a soft brush attachment (be sure to shut off the unit’s electrical power first!). And if you’ve got gross gunk building up on the inside, remove the top part of the unit (the part with the fan attached), and spray from the inside out with a garden hose and steady water pressure. Reader’s Digest offers specific details, pictures, and diagrams on how you can give your unit a thorough, safe cleaning. Or read up on how to clean a window air conditioner.

Change the air filter every month (though during low-use months you can get away with changing it every three months as long as it’s not dirty). Dirty filters waste energy by making your AC work harder to keep you cool, while clean filters prevent dust buildup.

Inspect and seal ducts to prevent unnecessary air leaks. While you’re at it, check all hose connections for leaks. Approximately 20 percent of the air that passes through your duct system is lost because of leaks, holes, and poor duct connections. Learn more here.

Check indoors, because just as plants and other outdoor debris can hinder your unit’s efficiency, so can unsuspecting items inside. Vacuum registers and air vents regularly, keep furniture and drapes away from registers, close doors and windows when the air conditioning is on, and make sure the vent from your clothes dryer doesn’t blow on the outside AC unit.

Invest in an Energy Star-certified air conditioner if you’re in the market for a new one. Energy Star units are approximately 20 percent more efficient than conventional models and, just like any other Energy Star appliance, a certified air conditioner will save you money over the course of its lifetime. For maximum efficiency, install your unit on a side of your house that’s shaded. Learn more at the Energy Star website.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Hiring Reliable Pros

Certain household projects, such as tiling a backsplash, or creating built-in bookshelves are easily done yourself. But larger-scale projects—whether you’re building a home addition, installing a pond, or constructing a multilevel deck—may require professional know-how to ensure you meet local building codes and avoid expensive mistakes.

Whether you hire the services of an architect, interior designer, member of a design/build team, specialty contractor, or a general building contractor, picking reliable professionals is essential to the success of your project—and to your happiness with the project once it’s complete. (Read: It’s OK to be picky!)

To jumpstart your search, flip through your Yellow Pages or try these sites:

• American Society of Interior Designers
• American Institute of Architects
• National Association of Home Builders
• National Association of the Remodeling Industry

When you hire a general building contractor to manage all aspects of your project from start to finish (and work with other pros brought in), you’ll want to be especially meticulous:

Ask around. Seek multiple referrals from people you trust—friends, family, coworkers, and neighbors—so you have options to choose from.

Get familiar with them up front. It doesn’t hurt to call multiple contractors. Ask them how long they’ve been in business, inquire about their experiences with projects similar to yours, cost estimates, whether or not they do projects of your size, what kinds of insurance they carry, and if they’re licensed and registered in your state. And once you’ve narrowed down your list to a few contractors, meet with all of them in person. Benjamin Moore offers good questions to ask prospective contractors. To prep for the interview, check out these surefire signs for spotting a crooked contractor. And always ask for a list of references.

Check credentials. Put those references to good use—call previous clients to ask about their finished product and you’ll learn volumes about the quality of the contractor. Were they satisfied with the final result? Was it finished on time? Were there hidden costs? Were there any problems along the way? If you want visual proof, you can also visit a current job site and see how the contractor operates.

Obtain final bids based on your plans. When you narrow your list of prospective contractors, you’ll also want to obtain final estimates for your project from each one. Three weeks should be a sufficient amount of time for the contractors to prepare bids, which should contain specific lists that pinpoint vital project information such as materials, labor, other expenses, and the contractor’s fee. Carefully compare each bid against one another. And make sure they explain the bid in detail—especially if there are price variations—so you can make well-informed decisions. In general, it’s best to throw out the lowest bid—it might not be as thorough as the others or it might indicate the contractor is cutting corners.

Your work doesn’t end once you pick the best contractor. Next you’ll have to sign a written contract. So stay tuned: Soon, I’ll be posting about the elements of a good contract, as well as how to build a positive working relationship with your contractor.

Until Monday,
The Home Know-It-All

Gas Grill Buying Guide

Once the weather warms up, my mouth starts watering for all the tasty offerings we make on the grill—brats, burgers, chicken, fresh veggies, you name it. And I’m not alone. It turns out 81 percent of U.S. households own a barbecue grill, according to The Hearth, Patio & Barbecue Association.

Whether you’re looking to purchase your first grill or are thinking about upgrading, here are some considerations to keep in mind as you start shopping.

How much am I willing to spend? It’s a good idea to determine this figure upfront so you don’t get sucked into looking at grills that cost a couple grand when you can only spend a couple hundred—because trust me, once you see those monster grills outfitted with everything imaginable, it will be hard to settle on a grill in your price range. Fortunately, even if your budget is less than $500, you can still find a reliable grill that does the cooking you need it to do. You just won’t get all the extra features you’ll find on pricier models.

What will I use it for? If your cooking style leans toward occasional weekend meals, any number of backyard grills will do the trick. If you’re like me, however, and wouldn’t mind grilling at least once a day, it may be worth it to splurge on a grill with more size and power as well as better-quality materials. And if gourmet cooking is your style, your best bet is a top-of-the-line grill with features like multiple side burners, infrared heating, and more.

How well is the grill made? Many buying guides recommend shaking any grill you’re thinking about buying. Really. Well-built grills are solid and stable, with parts that are welded together. They’re probably heavy too because they’re made of quality materials like high-grade steel and heavy-gauge stainless-steel. Handle and hood construction is important as well—you should be able to grab the handle without getting burned, so it should be constructed of a heat-resistant material like stainless steel. Inside the grill, look for a stainless-steel, porcelain-enameled steel, or porcelain-enameled cooking grate, a system for dispersing heat from the burners, and an igniter that’s shielded inside a gas catcher.

What features does it offer? For cooking flexibility, your grill should have two or more burners with separate controls. Beyond the basics, consider what’s most important to you. Depending on the style of grill and its price, available features may include any number of the following (and other options not listed here too!):

• Built-in grease catcher
• Built-in thermometer
• Side prep surfaces
• Side shelves, condiment trays, towel bars, tool hangers, and other storage options
• Side burners
• Infrared burners
• Smoking drawers and boxes
• Sealed rotisserie

If you’re looking for more information before you hit the store, the Hearth, Patio & Barbecue Association offers a slew of resources on choosing the right grill, buying grill accessories, grill safety, and more. And many of the major grill manufacturers are great sources of information too—for instance, Weber offers a handy guide on shopping for gas grills (you can even download it and take it to the store with you).

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

DIY Backsplash Techniques

Want a quick and easy way to transform your kitchen in a weekend—and for less than $200? Install a mosaic tile backsplash in no time with these steps (and a little help from my parents, who tackled the project you see here).

Step One. Find your backsplash tiles. Search online and at home-improvement centers for the material, color, and style that’s right for your kitchen. The ones shown here were purchased on eBay for $6.95 a sheet, versus more than $20 elsewhere. So if you’re looking to stay under $200 with this project, be sure to explore your options before you make any purchases.

Although you don’t have to use small tiles like the ones my parents used, they’re a great option because they come in sheets (which means less design work for you), and you likely can get away with less tile-cutting than if you use larger ones. Regardless of what type of tile you purchase, be sure to buy more tile than you need in case you break or otherwise damage any of your tiles.

Step Two. Prepare for the project. This involves clearing the countertops, removing electrical outlet and light switch covers, and moving appliances that may be in the way. Also clean the walls where you plan to install the tile with warm water and allow them to dry.

Step Three. Following the manufacturer’s recommendations, apply adhesive to a section of the wall with the trowel and lay the tiles in it. Working in small areas ensures the adhesive won’t dry out before you’re finished laying tile. Depending on your backsplash design, you may need to push spacers into the adhesive between your tiles to keep them even. With small mosaic tiles like these, however, you can lay down entire sheets at a time—much easier than placing each of those tiny tiles individually! As you work, wipe up any excess adhesive that oozes up between the tiles.

DESIGN NOTE: If you have to cut tiles, like my parents did with the tiles around the outlet, score the tile with a tile cutter and use tile nippers or a saw to carefully cut each piece.

Step Four. Once all of the tiles are in place, wipe off any excess adhesive with a damp cloth and allow the tiles to set according to the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions.

Step Five. After the tile has set (you may want to wait a day or so), mix the grout. (For best results, mix the grout in small batches so it doesn’t dry out.) If you used spacers, remove them now. Spread the grout diagonally across the tiles with a rubber float, making sure to pack the grout between the tiles. When the grout becomes firm, wipe off the excess with a damp sponge, taking care to rinse the sponge frequently.

Step Six. After the grout dries, a haze will form on the tiles. Once this occurs, wipe the tiles down again and shine them with a clean cloth.

Step Seven. Your project is complete. Replace electric outlets, switches, and appliances and enjoy your new backsplash. See what a difference a backsplash makes—just check out the before and after of my parents’ kitchen!

DESIGN NOTE: Keep in mind that when you replace your electric outlets and switches now, you may need longer screws.

Want to learn more? Bone up on backsplash basics. And check out the step-by-step pointers offered by This Old House, Lowe’s, and Remodeling My Space too.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Vintage Bath Design

Every morning, as I get ready in my tiny bathroom, I plan out my ideal bath design. My dream bathroom is much larger, of course, but it’s also steeped in vintage style, complete with creamy cabinetry, charming built-in niches, subway-tile lined showers, and a decidedly romantic ambience.

Done right, a vintage-style bathroom brims with classic period charm and character yet stands up to the needs of a modern family. By itself, the term “vintage style” can have a range of influences, from a little Victorian to a bit of 1950s-retro. I’m going to focus on my favorite: 1920s-inspired vintage design.

How do you achieve realistic vintage design? First, do your homework: Read books and magazines to identify the look you’re going for, as well as what features you like. There are a lot of ways you can approach vintage style. For example, maybe you prefer a breezy, cottage-like look. Or maybe you like the sheer glamour associated with the Roaring ’20s. Reading a bunch of bath design magazines helped me discover my affinity for vintage design. And it also helped me determine that my dream bath will feature a pale blue-and-white color scheme—fitting for vintage baths, which tend to boast neutral and all-white color schemes.

These elements are common in vintage-style baths:

• Beaded board wainscoting (tip: look for ceramic tile panels that emulate traditional wainscoting, yet stand up to bathroom moisture)
• Subway tile
• Large claw-foot tubs
• Pedestal sinks
• Built-in storage
• Hexagonal-tile flooring
• Natural materials (if you opt for synthetic materials, make sure they look natural)
• Window moldings
• Chrome or brass fixtures

You can work with antique treasures or salvaged building materials (get the scoop on scouting for salvaged goods here. Or look for vintage-look goods at reproduction stores such as Restoration Hardware. And if your budget doesn’t allow for new fixtures, learn how to refinish the ones you’ve got.

Does your bathroom desperately need a makeover? See how this dull, dark bathroom underwent a vintage-style transformation and came out looking light, bright, and, most importantly, inviting. Or watch a video to see how one bathroom reclaimed its signature 1920s style for less than $500.

If you’re ready to plan your vintage bath—or if you want some great resources—check out Kohler’s design tips and this HGTV article.

And if your bathroom brims with vintage style, share your design tips here—I’m looking for ideas!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

All About Mopping

I’ve never given mopping a whole lot of thought (beyond the few minutes I spend on the task weekly, if my floors are lucky). But after a friendly reader asked a mopping-related question and I started doing some digging looking for an answer, I discovered there’s more to mopping than meets the eye. Hence, the topic of this post. Here’s the rundown:

Mopping is likely a key component of your cleaning if you have hard-surface floors made of materials such as tile, stone, vinyl, laminate, and linoleum. First you sweep, then you mop.

Cleaning these floors may involve using a dry mop (for dust, pet hair, and dirt that sweeping or vacuuming missed), as well as a wet mop for scrubbing and more thorough cleaning.

Dry mops typically have a shaggy cloth head that’s removable (look for ones that can be washed and reused). You’ll likely spray them with cleaner made especially for attracting dust (mine came with my new laminate floor).

Wet mops may have heads made of a sponge, rags, or terry cloth. Sponge and terry cloth mops are handy for smooth surfaces that aren’t considerably large; string mops make covering a large floor easier and quicker.

Traditional mopping involves filling a bucket or the sink with warm water and a mopping solution, cleaning the floor, rinsing the mop once you’re finished, and allowing the floor to dry. If you opt for this technique, bone up on the steps at About.com.

Today, a variety of mopping options exist with the goal—or so say the marketers—of making our lives easier (because I guess mopping with water is really hard). One of the most popular is the Swiffer Wet Jet. The starter kit comes with a reusable Wet Jet Powermop, disposable cleaning pads, and a bottle of multipurpose floor cleaning solution. All you do is attach a fresh cleaning pad and you’re off. According to Swiffer, the super-absorbent pad is preferable to regular mopping because the pad picks up dirt rather than pushing it around.

The Swiffer isn’t the only option out there, however. Clorox offers a similar kit with its ReadyMop Mopping System.

Many of the mopping options on the market today aren’t exactly environmentally friendly. The disposable pads are wasteful, the chemicals in the cleaners aren’t good for your health or the health of the environment … I could go on. But I’ll spare you. (At least for today.)

That’s what makes the Bissell Steam Mop such a great options—it offers chemical-free cleaning and no disposable parts! Or, if you don’t want to fork over the cash for a steam mop and like the convenience of products such as the Swiffer Wet Jet, try the Method omop instead. It’s a nontoxic microfiber floor care kit that includes an ergonomic mop, compostable corn-based sweeping cloths, a reusable microfiber mop pad, and nontoxic and biodegradable floor cleaner. Even the packaging is environmentally friendly—the cleaning liquid is in a 100 percent recycled plastic bottle, and the whole kit is packaged in a box made of bamboo fiber and recycled paper that can be composted or recycled.

Or, better yet, purchase a reusable mop made of recycled content (you can find them made from plastic bottles, yarn, you name it) and use your own earth-friendly floor cleaner. Here’s an easy recipe: combine 1 cup white vinegar with 2 gallons warm water in a bucket. Mop away and rinse. Voilà! Clean floors and no chemicals!

But wait—I’m not quite done with this missive on mopping yet. I have a few more important points to make.

If your reusable mop is getting stinky, don’t toss it. Try this.

And if you’re unsure about what to do with that dirty mop water? I did some searching to try to uncover what the best option is. Some people pour it down the drain. Others say you should flush it down the toilet so you don’t pour dirty mop water in the sink. Sadly, I couldn’t come up with a definitive answer as to which is better. Except I’d say that if you use environmentally friendly cleaning products, the dilemma about what you’re dumping back into the waterways via the toilet or sink will be less disconcerting. (Oh, and if you use garden-friendly low-phosphate cleaners you might even be able to dump that water in your garden—which, come to think of it, may just be the best option, in my humble opinion.)

OK. Now I’m done. Happy mopping!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Deck Building Basics

Photo courtesy of James A. Stepp, Lexicon Media

There’s a cracked concrete slab behind our house that has to go, so we’ve been playing with the idea of either building a deck or a patio. Although at the moment I’m leaning toward a patio, but there’s just something about a well-designed deck that draws me to a backyard, so I haven’t ruled that option out yet either.

If you’re thinking this may be the summer to tackle your deck-building project, here’s an overview of the steps you’ll go through to make your deck a reality.

Photo courtesy of James A. Stepp,
Lexicon Media

Planning Begin the process by gathering ideas. Check out neighbors’ decks, search online, flip through magazines. The more inspiration you find the better so you can begin to narrow down the deck styles, materials, and features you like most.

Of course, it’s not all about personal preference. At this stage in the project you’ll also need to carefully consider your budget, your building abilities, and how much time you have. Sure, a multilevel deck with built-in benches and a pergola sounds terrific, but if you get halfway through and run out of money, screw up the measurements and have to buy all new materials, or get busy with other things and allow your deck to sit unfinished half the summer, no one’s going to be happy (particularly you).

Also take into account the size and style of your house. A low platform deck would be perfect on the back of our one-story brick ranch house, for instance, but would probably look out of scale on the large, ornate Victorian homes down the street. (I’ll post about deck styles soon, so stay tuned!)

Consider the shape and features of your backyard too—including views, when certain areas of your yard will be shady, prominent landscaping features that may determine where you position your deck, and the shape and size of your property.

Materials
Most of your deck is comprised of decking—the surface you walk on. There are many material options available—from wood varieties such as redwood, cedar, and pressure-treated wood to synthetic decking. When you select your decking material, consider appearance, price, durability, and maintenance.

It’s also important to ensure that the components of the deck structure—especially the posts—are made from pressure-treated lumber that withstands insects and won’t rot. And quality fasteners are vital too since they hold your deck together!

Construction
The actual construction process involves the following steps (though there’s a bit more detail than I’m explaining here, so please don’t print this out and run out back to get started!):

Photo courtesy of James A. Stepp,
Lexicon Media

• Creating building plans and obtaining permits
• Preparing the site by removing obstructions, grading the soil near your home’s foundation, and removing unwanted vegetation
• Covering the ground with a layer of sand followed by landscaping fabric topped with gravel
• Marking the location of the ledger board, which mounts to the side of the house to provide support for the deck
• Marking the location of and excavating for the footings
• Pouring the foundation
• Installing posts, girders, and joists
• Laying decking over the joists and fastening it in place
• Adding stairs, railings, and other ancillary structures
• Sealing, staining, or painting the deck

If you want some real-life inspiration, be sure to check out Karson’s posts on his deck-building project at Refurber.com. The finished product looks terrific! And here’s another great deck project.

Looking for more in-depth info? Head straight over to Extreme How-To and Lowes.com. With their insights, you’ll be building the deck of your dreams in no time. (Then be sure to maintain it so it looks good year-round.)

Until Monday,
The Home Know-It-All

Fun with Cut Flowers

Photo courtesy of James A. Stepp, Lexicon Media

You know the old adage “April showers bring May flowers”? Well, I’m not going to lie: I really hope it holds true this spring. Because after all the rain we’ve had during the past month, May should be abloom with colorful blossoms. And you better believe I’m planning to bring some of these posies inside to brighten up my décor.

Photo courtesy of James A. Stepp,
Lexicon Media

Not only does cutting flowers from your garden allow you to enjoy the fruits of your labor indoors, it encourages even more flowering on your plants during the summer, according to floral designer Rose G. Edinger, who shares everything you want to know about caring for cut flowers here.

Be strategic about when you venture out into your garden. Early morning is the best time to snip flowers, because the stems are filled with moisture. Using sharp-edge cutting tools, cut diagonally so there’s a larger surface for the stem to absorb water. Remove any leaves that would be submerged in water.

Want to know which flowers are best for cutting? Find out from the folks at Sunset.

Now comes the fun part: artfully arranging your blooms. Make sure the flowers fit comfortably and aren’t crammed together. When it doubt, keep it simple—sticking with the same flower variety or a monochromatic color scheme can be quite dramatic if tastefully arranged. And remember that the height of the flowers should be proportionate to the height of the container—for example, you wouldn’t want to put a bunch of tall irises in a petite bud vase. This HGTV article will take the guesswork out of picking the perfect-size vase for your posies.

Photo courtesy of James A. Stepp,
Lexicon Media

ProFlowers.com expert Laura Milder suggests arranging the flowers in different directions, so that the arrangement can be enjoyed from different angles. Read up on her other suggestions. These handy tips from Erin Rosenow, founder of Birch Floral Boutique in San Francisco, will keep your blooms in tip-top shape.

Oh, and if you’re looking for creative vase ideas in a snap, look no further than this Better Homes and Gardens story. Using old, colorful bottles as makeshift vases? Love it!

Until tomorrow,
The Home-Know-It-All