The Home Know-It-All

Watch out for Vampires!

It seems fitting to post about vampires on Halloween. But the vampires I’m writing about here aren’t your typical bloodsuckers—these ones suck energy.

I’ve mentioned before how clocks, microwave ovens, cell phone chargers, and the like suck energy if they’re plugged in—even if they’re not actually in use.

But as this CNN article discusses, the concern over vampires is growing. In fact—I hadn’t heard this before—last year in California lawmakers passed a proposal called the Vampire Slayers Act (no joke) that will add vampire electronics labels to products to tell how much energy they’re using when on, off, or in standby mode.

This type of energy sucking is also called phantom loads (an equally spooky notion, don’t you think?) If you’re concerned about the energy your small electronics are gobbling up, check out this Treehugger tip on minimizing phantom loads.

Canadian website Raising Spaces discusses power-sucking ghosts too. I’m going to download their Phantom Carbon Calculator to figure out what the biggest offenders are in my home.

And, as always, Ideal Bite has some great pointers on how to deal with the phantoms lurking in your house.

Before I go, the best advice I can give you is this: Don’t be afraid of the vampires. Just look for ways to get rid of them or at least minimize their energy-sucking opportunities. And happy trick-or-treating!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Quick Style Fix: Pendant Lights

Photos courtesy of Sea Gull Lighting Products, LLC

Want to add serious—or playful—style to your kitchen (or other rooms in your house for that matter) without spending a fortune? How about this bright idea: pendant lights.

Pendant lighting ranges in style from chandeliers to paper globes and can be as formal or informal as you like. In general, a pendant is any light that dangles from the ceiling from a rod or chain and provides general or task lighting.

There are a variety of tricks you can use to increase the effectiveness and impact of pendant lighting. Try coordinating pendants with your other fixtures, particularly if you’re sticking with a specific period style. Or create a dramatic look over a kitchen island or peninsula by lining up three or more of the same fixture.

The American Lighting Association provides a nice overview of pendant lighting—I particularly like their suggestion to use pendants with dimmers so you have maximum brightness when working but can dim them to create a subtle glow. (Plus using dimmers anywhere in your house is a great way to boost energy efficiency!)

One of the best things about pendant lights is that they’re relatively easy to hang. (Do it yourself with step-by-step info from eHow.) You can go for inexpensive, trendy fixtures and swap them out as tastes change. Or if you’re going for timeless style, opt for high-quality pendant fixtures to ensure they last.

You can even install pendant lights in your home without rewiring—this instant pendant light from Worth Home Products easily transforms a can light into a pendant.

Not sure how far down your pendants should hang? The bottom of a hanging fixture is typically at least 7 feet above the floor for head clearance. For areas where pendants are providing task lighting, lowering the fixture may make it more efficient. (Just be sure people aren’t going to bonk their heads on it!) If you’re suspending a pendant from a high ceiling you may need to buy additional chain—in this case, it’s a good idea to have an electrician extend the wiring.

According to Better Homes & Gardens Decorative Lighting, if you plan to place a pendant fixture above a table in a room with an 8-foot ceiling, the bottom should hang about 30 inches above the table. For every additional foot of ceiling height, raise the fixture an extra 1 to 3 inches.

Get some great examples of pendant lights and places to hang them from this St. Louis Post-Dispatch article. Or check out This Old House’s gallery of pendant lights for ideas. Here’s a nice little comparison of some common pendant lights from Suite101.com.

Once you start shopping, check out the websites of these pendant light manufacturers:

Alluminaire
Arcadian Lighting
Croft and Little (Bonus: This company uses CFLs, so their pendants are energy-efficient.)
Sea Gull Lighting
YLighting

And if you can’t find the style of lighting you’re looking for, HGTV has handy instructions for creating your own.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Easy Halloween Decorating

Halloween’s only a couple of days away. Don’t have your decorating done yet? Never fear. Today I’m presenting ghoulishly easy decorating ideas that will have your home looking eerily festive in no time. And the best part? Some of them are just plain fun fall ideas, so you can display them through Thanksgiving. Boo!

• Learn the secrets of pumpkin carving from Mother Earth Living. Or, if you want to put a twist on traditional pumpkin carving, try these tips from Reader’s Digest.

• Poke cloves into an orange to make a pumpkin face. Or, if you don’t have cloves on hand, use a black marker.

• Cover a glass fishbowl or other glass bowl with orange crepe paper, cut out black construction paper facial features, and put a flashlight inside. Or cover small glass jars with orange crepe paper and place candles inside.

• Replace your regular bulbs with orange-tinted bulbs to cast a cool glow.

• Use old boxes or cardboard remnants to create gravestones in your front yard.

• Create ghoulish Halloween place mats with these instructions courtesy of Home Envy.

• Make a fake spider web using white string or twine.

• Adorn your ceiling with black and orange streamers.

• Write “Beware” or other creepy phrases with black marker on newsprint and tape it to your windows. Your lights will shine through, creating an eerie effect.

• Make a scarecrow by stuffing old clothes with crumpled newspapers or old rags. Use a balloon or ball for the face (or try a pumpkin!), and put a hat on top.

• Ding-dong the witch is dead. Celebrate the evil witch’s demise with this silly decoration from Quick & Simple.

• Try some (or all!) of the 17 spooktacular decorating ideas from iVillage.

• If you’re feeling particularly crafty, create these decorations (also from Quick & Simple).

• Want easy, green decor? Check out the ideas at Treehugger.

• Better Homes & Gardens offers a slew of spooky decorations from witchy welcome signs to eyeball silverware.

• Don’t forget about the ghoulishly good ideas at Recycle, eh!.

• Still haven’t found what you’re looking for? Try the last-minute decorating ideas at HGTV.

Have a spine-tingling good time!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Mounting Flat Screen TVs

Flat-screen televisions have grown in popularity in the past couple of years as TV technologies have improved, prices have dropped, and consumers have increasingly wanted larger TVs that don’t completely take over their living spaces.

Although most flat-screen televisions come with stands, many homeowners are choosing to mount theirs on the wall instead. And why not? It frees up even more space, allows you to position your television at a just-right height, and lets you get away with buying less art for your walls. Sounds like a good idea to me!

Shopping for a flat-panel TV? Start with this buying guide from Future Shop.

Once you purchase your flat-screen, should you choose to affix it to the wall, the most important thing to remember is you need to attach it to a stud … unless you want it to come crashing down, potentially bringing part of your wall with it. (My guess is you’d rather not have that happen.)

Beyond that basic fact, it’s important make certain you install your television in the optimal spot for viewing. Here are some pointers for where to mount your television (along with links to products that can help you do it).

This about.com article details how to ensure that you’re buying the right mounting brackets (and more). If you need hardware to mount your TV, check out Mounts and More. Then, once you have all the tools you need, here’s how to actually mount your TV on the wall.

Oh, but wait. What about those darn cords that hang down? They look less than stellar (if you don’t believe, take a look at how my TV looked when it was mounted in my apartment, above. So how do you hide those darn cords?

The most common recommendation is to drill or cut holes to run the wires through the wall. You’ll cut a hole where the wires originate from the TV and another where you want them to come out. Then you have to fish the wires through the holes. This is a possibility if you own your home and aren’t afraid to make relatively large holes in the walls (and if you have some DIY skills). You can have it professionally done too, but that can get pricey.

If you’re really motivated (and don’t mind the mess) you can chisel a long groove in a plaster wall, fit your wires into the groove, and replaster. But what happens if you need to get to the wires for some reason? Hmm. Good question, and one you might want to think about before you start chiseling.

Should you decide to undergo one of these options, Crutchfield Advisor takes you from the tools you need to drywall cleanup.

Or, if you’d rather leave your walls alone, how about some handy alternatives? Surface-mount wire holders are an outside-the-wall option. They stick out from the wall a bit but if you don’t run them too far and you paint or paper them too match your wall they’re hardly noticeable. My mother went this route with the wall-mount TV in my parents’ living room, right, and I think it works pretty well.

Another option (and the easiest—although admittedly not the most attractive): strategically place a plant, a piece of art, or even a furnishing in front of the hanging television wires to hide them. And call it a day.

Oh, while we’re busy hiding TV wires, why not hide the television too?

At framemyTV.com you can purchase a custom metal or wood frame for your LCD or plasma TV to help it blend with your décor. Or check out hiddentelevision.com, where you can purchase a transparent mirror that you mount over your TV (it works in bedrooms, living rooms, or even bathrooms according to the website). Your television appears to be a regular mirror until you turn it on (which, as the website demonstrates, allows you to watch figure skating in your bathroom, and use your TV as a mirror the rest of the time).

Enjoy, you couch potatoes you.

Until Monday,
The Home Know-It-All

Winterizing Decks and Patios

I know, I know. I’ve been all about winterizing and weatherizing lately. But it’s important! And so the story continues …

Once you’ve taken care of your home exterior, your lawn, and your garden, it’s time to tackle another outdoor space: your deck or patio.

Whether you have a deck or patio, be sure to sweep away dirt and debris such as leaves and pine needles from the surface. With decks, be sure to clean between the deck boards too.

More deck pointers …

As The Natural Handyman points out, it’s all about cleaning, stripping, and sealing. Once you’ve swept the deck clear, get rid of any mildew that may have formed. Extreme How-To has a recipe for eliminating mildew.

Once that’s taken care of, remove peeling stain from the deck surface. Hints and Things provides suggestions on products that can help.

Then it’s time to seal the deck with a water-resistant finish (this ensures all that winter snow or rain doesn’t cause warping or cracking). Learn more about sealing.

Now, I know you’re already super excited at the fact that you may be shoveling snow off your deck soon. (OK, maybe not. But it’s inevitable in many parts of the country, right?) When it’s time for snow removal, take care to run the shovel lengthwise on the deck boards so you minimize the chance that you’ll scratch or gouge the deck boards. And opt for plastic shovels if possible—they’re considerably gentler on wood than metal.

And a few patio tips …

The most important thing to do with patios besides a good cleaning: seal cracks in asphalt and concrete. Lucky you, my post on driveway maintenance and repair discusses how to take care of cracks in both!

What else do you do to prepare your outdoor spaces for winter?

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Let's Play With Chalkboard Paint

If you’re still thinking of chalkboard paint as something that covers those old dusty blackboards in schoolrooms, you’re way behind the times. Today, chalkboard paint is a great way to embellish everything from walls to furnishings. But don’t take my word for it. Check out these great ideas.

This Crayola Crayon Colored Art Room proves that chalkboard paint is a playful option for kids’ rooms. And as SuperMom points out, this type of paint is also swell in nurseries (although you may not want chalk dust around baby). Speaking of kids’ rooms, here’s another great idea I ran across courtesy of The New Homemaker: Use chalkboard spray paint to cover a toy chest and let kids go crazy decorating it with colorful chalk.

Other wall-worthy ideas: Paint it on the wall above wainscoting in a playroom, then use the chair rail that juts out as a chalk holder. Or for a no-risk alternative, paint a piece of plywood and frame it instead, as shown on HGTV. And chalkboard paint doesn’t have to scream schoolmarm either, as this contemporary space with a chalkboard paint accent wall illustrates.

Or try a chalkboard paint backsplash in your kitchen. Take cues from this Suite101.com article and apply magnetic primer so you can stick handy magnetic spice holders, hooks, and the like to your backsplash (or wherever you’re going for the chalkboard look). It’s great for dorm-room decorating too (if it’s allowed).

If you’re inspired, here’s how to paint a wall with chalkboard paint, courtesy of DIY Network.

Paint is perfect for doors too. Turn boring old closet doors into the site of a car-loving little boy’s dreams. If you’re brave, you can even let kids tackle painting a portion of their own door (on the inside of the room, of course) with chalkboard paint.

There’s no need to stick with boring green or black chalkboard paint either. Try Martha’s ideas for creating a wall calendar, mudroom mural, message center, or pantry message station. Another option if green or black isn’t your thing: make your own color. Apartment Therapy tells you how.

Even if you don’t want to do a major painting project, add subtle touches of chalkboard paint by covering frames in it. Or paint coasters and leave out pieces of chalk so guests can doodle and write messages to one another.

And, in case I missed something, check out these 12 creative uses for chalkboard paint.

What clever ideas do you have for adorning your home with chalkboard paint?

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Cooktop Buying Guide

It’s true. If you decide to buy a cooktop and an oven rather than a range that includes both, you’re going to pay more. (Depending on the features, it could be a lot more.) But for many people, it’s worth it. For one thing, separating the cooktop and oven allows you to place them at spots in the kitchen that are most efficient for you. Plus cooktops come with a slew of cooking options that many ranges don’t offer—and they look darn good.

If you’re on the hunt for a new cooktop, use this info to start your search. You’ll be cooking in no time.

Removing Carpet Stains

Dirt Stain Before

Dirt Stain After

I recently wrote about fast flooring fix-ups and included a bonus post on cleaning tile floors, but perhaps one of the biggest challenges homeowners face is removing stains from the carpet. So today we’ll explore that topic a bit more.

Your best bet for removing stains is to tackle them as soon as they occur. The odds are better that you’ll successfully remove stains that are fresh. And never—ever!—scrub the stain. Instead, use a blotting motion to soak up spills while they’re still wet.

One more general warning: Know what your carpet is made of before you remove a stain—or at least test whatever cleaning agent you plan to use on a scrap of carpet before you douse the middle of your living room carpet with it. Whenever possible, try cleaning carpet stains with water first. It’s your best (and least harsh) line of defense.

Want to know what to use to clean certain types of stains? Scotchguard has a handy table that matches stains with home-based removal solutions. Or try these ideas:

Urine. Check out my post on cleaning up after your pets for urine removal pointers.

Gum. Freeze stuck-in gum with an ice cube. Chip off what you can with the blunt side of a knife. You may have to trim away what’s left (if it’s not too embedded) with scissors.

Red wine. I had a little run-in with red wine recently. In my experience, panicked blotting with soap and water, followed by white vinegar and more water, works wonderfully.

Cigarette burns. Sand burns away with sandpaper. Remove the remaining blackened fibers with scissors. (And please please please keep your cigarettes away from your carpet!)

Dirt. Here’s a handy little dirt removal recipe.

Blood. Use water, then detergent.

Grease or oil. Apply trichloroethane followed by detergent.

Latex paint. Detergent is your best bet.

Chocolate. Try detergent, then ammonia.

Lipstick. Trichloroethane, then detergent, then ammonia, then vinegar.

I’m a big fan of homemade cures for what ails the home, so I’m going to share a few other spots where you can find good cleaning info. Check out this post.

Moving.com has some good pointers too.

Here’s how to get your carpet clean on the cheap.

And before you go, don’t forget to take a peek at info on green carpet cleaning.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Weatherizing and Winterizing Your Home

Your sweaters may have replaced your summer clothes in the closet. And you might have spent last weekend preparing your garden for the cold. But have you turned your attention to the exterior of your house yet?

Now’s the time to prepare your home for the onslaught of cold weather—and your pocketbook for the ever-growing energy bills you may soon be faced with. Here’s what to do to weatherize and winterize outside the house. (Then in November I’ll provide more pointers on what to do to improve energy efficiency indoors.)

Check out these 5 Home Winterizing Myths. Then it’s time to get started!

• Do a home energy audit—you can hire someone to do it for you or do it yourself.

• Seal leaks outdoors (particularly around windows, doors, and outdoor faucets) with weather-resistant caulk. If you’re sealing areas made of brick, use masonry sealer.

• Remove debris from your gutters and rinse the gutters with a hose to allow rain and snow to drain. Make sure downspouts carry water away from your home’s foundation to avoid water damage.

• Repair loose shingles or leaks in your roof to prevent water damage.

• Have your chimney professionally checked and cleaned.

• Drain outdoor faucets and shut off water to the outdoors.

• Replace cracked window glass, seal loose windowpanes, and weather strip windows.

• Call the power company to trim any dead branches along power lines. (They should do it for free.)

Want to learn more? Check out this post (it’s incredibly thorough). Or download this handy guide (warning: by clicking this link you’ll be downloading a PDF).

Until Monday,
The Home Know-It-All

Fall Lawn Care

With all the rain we’ve been getting this past week, the grass in my neighborhood is still pretty green. But it won’t be long before the lawns lose their emerald glow and take on the dry brown hues of dead grass. If you don’t live in a part of the country that’s already gotten snow (sorry, Mom!), take some time this weekend to get your lawn in shape before the first frost hits.

• According to Buckeyegardening.com you should continue to mow your grass until there hasn’t been any growth for about two weeks. When you mow for the last time, leave the grass at least 2 inches (but no more than 3 inches) high.

• Rake your leaves to prevent lawn disease. Here’s what to do with them once they’re raked.

• Fertilize your lawn. In particular, cool-season grasses such as bluegrass and fescue could use nutrients about now.

• Fill in bare patches of your cool-season grasses.

• If your soil is compacted or your yard has greater than ½ inch of thatch, you may want to consider aerating too.

Learn more about fall lawn care from Glenn or John. Or listen in on advice from The Organic Gardeners.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Sofa-Buying Smarts

The first time I was able to buy a brand-new sofa, I was intimidated. There were so many sizes, styles, and materials to choose from. And how the heck did I know what would fit in my apartment living room, let alone which one was worth the hefty price tag?

Fortunately, I love the oh-so-durable microfiber sofa I settled on (particularly the fact that even though it’s white guests can spill entire beverages on it and they come out—trust me, it happened right after I bought it).

Since I was dropping one of my first post-college paychecks on my sofa, with the hope I’d keep it for years, I found two pieces of advice invaluable:

1. Buy the best sofa you can afford. (Really, cheap doesn’t cut it.)

2. Pick a classic sofa style so it works no matter how often your tastes change.

Beyond those pointers, here a few more to get you going:

BEFORE YOU GO TO THE STORE

• Kimberley Seldon at Home Envy agrees with the “buy the best sofa you can afford” statement I learned. Better yet, she provides a list of questions you should ask before beginning the sofa shopping process.

• Measure the dimensions of the doors in your home to make sure the sofa will fit. (Remember the Friends episode in which Rachel and Ross tried to get his giant couch into his apartment? It was funny but didn’t look fun, so if you’re an apartment-dweller keep stairwells and elevators in mind too.)

• Consider room proportions. This blog recommends using painter’s tape or masking tape to mark off the area where you want the sofa to rest. And be sure to leave at least 3 feet of space around the sofa for traffic. In a small room, that may mean a loveseat is a better option than a full-size sofa.

AT THE STORE

• Check out how the sofa is made. In particular, check the sofa frame for quality craftsmanship. Kiln-dried hardwood frames are sturdier than pine or composite wood and resist warping. Good frames have cotton or polydacron padding so the upholstery fabric never touches the wood. And look for eight-way hand-tied or sagless springs so your sofa won’t bottom out. Seat cushions should be constructed of feathers wrapped around a polyurethane foam core.

• Consider style. Sleek and contemporary or comfortable and casual? Tight back or pillow back? With arms or without? Sectional or standard? There are a slew of style choices to consider. You have to live with this couch for the long haul, so unless you have a fat checkbook you might want to avoid super-trendy versions in favor of something comfortable and classic, as I mentioned before. (Then you can add some smaller, funkier furnishings to your space.) Here are a couple of cool couches.

• Pick upholstery that fits your lifestyle. If you have kids or pets (or friends who spill drinks), think easy-clean and durable. Natural fibers such as cotton, linen, wool, or silk work, or try synthetic fibers like nylon or polyester. As I mentioned, microfiber fabrics are easy to clean. Leather is too. (If you pick leather, make sure it’s made of top-grain leather; split-grain leather isn’t as durable.)

• Sit on it. If you plan on lounging on your sofa with a good book or plopping down in front of the television, make sure your sofa is comfortable. Even if it’s for a more formal area, you want people to sit on it, right?

Learn more about sofa buying basics.

Then comiserate with others who are just getting into couch-buying mode.

Looking for sofa manufacturers? Try these:

Ashley*
Broyhill
Ethan Allen
La-Z-Boy
Lane

* My microfiber couch that I love so much is Ashley, in case you were wondering.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Cool Sinks

Photo courtesy of VitraStone

In the course of working on last week’s post on sink basics, I was impressed at some of the cool sinks out there and wanted to share some of my favorites with you.

Eco-Friendly Flooring offers an eco-friendly vessel sink made of recycled aluminum and brass that comes in bowl or square shapes.

Eleek sells sinks made of 100 percent recycled cast aluminum or 90 percent recycled cast bronze in a variety of contemporary styles. The drop-out images of the sinks, particularly the bow-tie model, don’t do them justice—they’re beauties.

VitraStone sinks are made from a blend of ceramic cement, fly ash, and recycled glass. They can be custom-made in a variety of colors and designs.

Villeroy & Boch make a sink that resembles precious stone (but it’s actually made of a highly durable china called pure stone).

If you’re looking for a cool sink to fit in a particularly tiny bath, check out this compact Leaf Sink by EuroStyle. It’s about as big as a laptop computer and even has a built-in soap dish to minimize messes.

What cool sinks do you have in your own bathrooms or kitchens? Or are you coveting a particularly trendy model from afar? Fill me in by leaving a comment below!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Go Green for Blog Action Day!

What can you do to lessen your impact on the environment?

If you aren’t thinking about it regularly, today is the day to start. It’s as good a day as any, especially since it’s Blog Action Day and this year is all about the environment.

Thousands of bloggers all over the world are posting today about the environment, whether they normally do so or not. There are plenty of bloggers out there arguing about why you should go green today. I encourage you to find some of their posts and read up.

Although I post about going green around the house fairly often, some of what I’ve already said is worth repeating. And a lot of other people out there are saying great things too. So I’m going to remind you about some of my green living posts and direct you to some new ones written especially for Blog Action Day (briefly, so you can get to work thinking “green” for your own home).

If you’re looking for a starting point, I encourage you to take a look at my Easy Ways to Go Green Around the House. And even beyond the home, try ZenHabits’ 50 Ways to Help the Environment Today.

Not sure whether to save, toss, or donate? Here are some photos of recycled home furniture—perhaps they’ll inspire you to save.

If you’re not sure what steps are easiest to take, try starting with something as simple as using green plastic wrap before moving on to purchasing low-VOC paints, composting, or even putting your consumerist tendencies behind you.

And of course, you know green cleaning is one of my favorite topics. If you’re still looking for homemade recipes, try Junie Moon’s.

Want to know more? Stay tuned. Soon I’ll be posting about home energy efficiency and more.

Now I want to know. What are your favorite blog action day posts? What green home pointers do you want to share with the world? Leave your comments below.

Happy Blog Action Day!
The Home Know-It-All

Cleaning Up After Your Pets

I’m sure you love your pooches or pretty kitties. But sometimes—particularly when they have an accident on your favorite rug or shed all over the couch—you wonder why you didn’t buy a goldfish instead. That’s why today’s post is all about cleaning up after Fido and Fifi—so you can spend more time playing with your pets and less time vacuuming behind them.

• Bathe and brush your pets regularly to help eliminate odors and pet hair. And keep a clean rag by the door to wipe muddy paws right after you take pets for a walk.

• Vacuum frequently.

• Keep a lint brush on hand to pick up pet hair from cushions, clothes, and other places it likes to stick. Or invest in a pet rake, which makes removing hair from furniture, bedding, and clothing easier.

• Remove hair from hard furnishings with a damp sponge or cloth.

• Treat accidents immediately. The key to eliminating odors and stains is to clean them up while they’re still fresh. Plus this prevents scent posts: If pets can smell chemicals from a previous accident, they may relieve themselves in the same spot again. No fun. Here’s how to remove urine stains.

• I’ll be blunt here. As if the pee problems weren’t enough, there’s also the matter of poop. To get rid of the offending item, slip a plastic bag over your hand, wear a latex glove, or use a long-handled scooper tool to pick it up.

• Then there’s the issue of stomach trouble, which is trickier because of the acidic nature of vomit. Here are some ideas on cleaning up after it.

And if picking up after pets isn’t your thing, learn about those who do it for a living.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Installing Laminate Flooring

I’m in the throes of trying to determine what flooring I’m going to put in my new house. And because I’m on a (very tight!) budget, one of the materials I’m considering for some of the areas of my home is laminate.

If I were living in the same state as my house (which I’m not yet), I might even consider installing the floor myself—it might take a bit of time, but it’s actually a relatively easy DIY project.

If you’ve decided to don your tool belt and tackle your laminate flooring installation yourself, DoItYourself.com offers all sorts of pointers on selecting and installing your laminate floor.

You’ll find thorough step-by-step instructions here. Or learn more about the process from Hometime and tricks of the trade from Refurber for installing your laminate flooring.

Many laminate flooring companies, such as Pergo and Armstrong, provide detailed installation information on their sites, so be sure to check out the website for the flooring manufacturer you choose. Everything you need to know may be a click away.

For more information on laminate flooring, visit the North American Laminate Floor Association. And check out this great overview of flooring—from shopping to installing.

Until Monday,
The Home Know-It-All

The Lowdown on Leaves

A few weeks ago, I mentioned that the leaves on the tree outside my window were changing colors. Now most of them are scattered on the sidewalk—although for some reason the leaves on the trees across the street are still on their branches and green as can be.

Whether your trees look like mine or the ones across the way, it’s time to start thinking about what you’re going to do to get rid of or preserve all those falling leaves.

Rake ’Em
Once the leaves hit the ground, it’s raking time. Use these pointers for gathering those leaves into piles in no time:

• Make raking a workout.

• Rake leaves when they’re dry, which is considerably easier than raking when they’re wet. And if you know moisture is on its way, rake now—wet leaves breed mold.

• Remember to remove leaves from the lawn, sidewalks, and flowerbeds. Wet leaves on sidewalks and other walkways can be slippery, and leaves left in perennial beds might rot. Plus leaves left on beds through the winter become a home for fungi and insects—get rid of them now to save yourself trouble in the spring.

• Allow leaves to remain under trees and shrubs as ground cover. They contain valuable nutrients and eventually will turn into compost, helping to conserve soil moisture, reduce soil erosion, control weeds, and more.

• Play in those piles before you do anything else with them!

Compost ’Em
Consider composting rather than bagging (bagged leaves consume unnecessary space in the landfill, plus some cities don’t even accept them anymore) or burning. First shred the leaves with a leaf shredder or weed whacker. Then place the shredded leaves in a compost bin to rot. Or work them gently into the top six inches of soil to decompose. Learn more about composting.

Or maybe mowing is the answer.

Preserve ’Em
Here’s a fun idea: Search out the coolest, most colorful leaves in your yard and use them for crafts projects.

Look for dry leaves, or if you come across ones that are damp, iron them or lay them between two paper towels and microwave them for 30 seconds to 2 minutes (until they are dry). Then wrap each leaf in a paper towel, lay it in a large, heavy book (for best results, leave 10 to 20 pages between each leaf), and let it sit for one week. To protect the book’s pages, periodically change the paper towels.

With your dried leaves, perhaps you’d like to make fall leaf candles or a pressed leaf tray. Or try these fall craft ideas.

Happy raking and leaf project making!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Decorating with Patterns

Photo courtesy of Amy Butler Design

Patterns can add serious style to your living spaces. But selecting the right pattern(s) to use in a room can be daunting—especially when images of gaudy, overdone living rooms upholstered and papered in every floral print imaginable spring to mind. To take the guesswork out of artfully incorporating patterns into your decorating scheme, here are a few pointers:

• Find inspiration. Your favorite fabric or color can be a great starting point for picking the first patterns for your room.

• Start small. If you’re new to decorating with patterns, there’s no need to go big and bold right away (and risk overwhelming your spaces). Pick a playful pattern or two for throw pillows first. A bonus: You can change them as often as you like because they’re not as pricey as, say, reupholstering an entire loveseat. Playing with patterns can be addictive, so in no time you’ll be ready to add pattern elsewhere in the room.

• Spread it out. Keep patterns from looking too cluttered by sprinkling them throughout the room rather than concentrating them in one spot.

• Pick a range of sizes. When decorating with patterns, stay away from an entire room full of large, bold prints (or a slew of tiny, busy ones). Incorporate a variety of small and large patterns for balance instead. For instance, the folks at HGTV recommend mixing floral patterns in a variety of sizes and background colors. (That way you end up with a space as lovely as a garden in bloom, rather than one that makes you feel like you’re drowning in monstrous flowers.)

• Think beyond traditional patterns. Who says you’re limited to florals and toiles? In contemporary spaces, polka dots and stripes can look pretty cool.

• Be brave. Bold combos can work out as long as there’s a unifying element. Take this space, where stripes and toile mix beautifully in close quarters thanks to the black-and-white color scheme.

If you’re like me, you’re always on the lookout for pattern-picking help. Here are three more strategies for mixing patterns successfully.

Once it’s time to shop, head to these fabric sites to get the pattern ideas flowing.

Amy Butler
Better Homes & Gardens
Fabric.com
Robert Allen Design
Waverly

What fabric manufacturers do you love? Any great posts you’ve read recently about decorating with patterns? What are your own pattern pointers or questions? Share away!

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Tile Floor Cleanup

A reader sent a great question my way the other day that I wanted to share with you (as I’m sure more of you would like to know the same thing). Here it is:

Q: What is the best home remedy for removing built-up wax and gunk from tile floors?

A: The Do-It-Yourself Network recommends pouring 1 gallon warm water, 1 tablespoon borax, and 2 tablespoons clear ammonia into a bucket and cleaning the tile floor with a rag or microfiber mop. (Never use a sponge mop, as it will push the dirt into the grout tracks.) You can also use a brush if the floor is particularly messy.

Or if it’s the grout that won’t come clean, try liquid dishwasher detergent and a toothbrush.

Does anyone else have any great homegrown recipes for cleaning tile floors? Post your ideas here.

And if you have questions for The Home Know-It-All, feel free to leave a comment on any post anytime and I’ll respond as soon as I can!

The Home Know-It-All

Sink Basics

Photo courtesy of Kohler Co.

I’ve touched on the basics of countertop materials and faucets so now it’s time to tackle sinks.

Sinks come in all sorts of installations, configurations, styles, and materials. Here’s a rundown on the basics.

SINK INSTALLATIONS
Rimmed sinks (also called surface-mount sinks) rest in a hole cut into the countertop, with the rim of the sink sealed to the counter.

Undermount sinks are attached underneath the countertop, creating a continuous line from the counter to the basin. In the kitchen, this makes it easy to wipe spills right into the sink.

Integral sinks provide an even smoother installation than undermount sinks because they are actually part of the same material as the countertop. This makes them incredibly easy to clean (no joints for gunk to get stuck in), but it also means that if you damage the countertop or the sink, both have to be replaced.

SINK CONFIGURATIONS
Single-basin sinks are pretty standard in the bathroom, but a variety of options are available for basins in the kitchen.

Single-basin sinks work best for small kitchens—or as a second prep sink (perhaps installed in an island) in larger kitchens.

Double-basin models may feature two equally sized basins or one large and one small bowl (the larger is perfect for filling large pots and washing dishes, the shallower side for rinsing veggies or draining pasta).

Triple-basin models have it all—two large basins make tackling dishes a cinch, plus a smaller, shallower bowl in the middle provides a spot for cleaning veggies and fruits. You can even accessorize some triple basin sinks—add a cutting board, colander, or dish drainer to make kitchen tasks even easier.

SINK STYLES
A variety of sink styles are available for bathrooms and kitchens depending on your tastes and the style of your spaces.

Pedestal sinks, as their name suggests, sit atop a pedestal. They don’t consume much floor space, so they’re ideal for small bathrooms (although you won’t have the undercounter storage space you get with a sink-vanity combo).

Vessel sinks sit atop (or are slightly recessed into) the countertop. They make quite a design statement but can be fragile and harder to use so are best reserved for low-traffic areas such as powder rooms.

Trough sinks accommodate multiple users because they have so many faucets and drains.

Bar or prep sinks are smaller than standard sinks (they usually have only one bowl, as I mentioned above). As you’d expect, they work well for food prep or bar areas.

Farmhouse or apron-front sinks have a rectangular, extra-deep shape with an exposed front. They’re often found in vintage or country-style kitchens and may be installed on the counter or mounted on the wall.

SINK MATERIALS
Sinks are manufactured from all sorts of materials, including stainless steel, cast iron, composite, vitreous china, solid surfacing, and even glass. Home Tips and DoItYourself.com provide nice rundowns on kitchen sink materials; check out this Plumber Surplus buying guide for info on what bathroom sinks are commonly made of.

Learn more about choosing your bathroom or kitchen sink. Then start shopping!

(And stay tuned—next week I’ll bring you some of my favorite cool, new sinks.)

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

How to Fold Sheets

There’s nothing quite like pulling a warm, fresh-smelling bundle of sheets from the dryer. But actually folding them? That’s another story. I struggle with the fitted sheets most—how the heck do you make those curved corners lie flat?

Rather than staring at the rumpled pile and wishing you could wiggle your nose a la Bewitched and have the fitted sheet magically folded, try these surefire tricks:

• Spread out the sheet on a large, flat surface—try your table or a bed—with the elastic edges facing up.

• Slip your hands into the two closest corners of the sheet and turn the corners inside out. Fold the sheet horizontally and tuck the bottom corners into the top corners.

• Straighten and smooth all the edges.

• Fold the sheet left to right, and then in half.

• Fold lengthwise in thirds until you reach your desired size.

See? It’s not that hard. But if you’d rather watch someone doing it, the folks at Target Australia put together a handy step-by-step video to guide you through the process.

Once you’ve mastered the art of folding fitted sheets, folding flat sheets and pillowcases will seem like a piece of cake.

And to put all the pieces together, learn how to properly store a sheet set in your linen closet and try other tricks for keeping those sheets in tip-top shape.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Universal Design

Photo courtesy of Baldwin Hardware

I’m a big fan of universal design. And I’ll tell you why.

Universal design makes life easier for every person who enters or lives in your home, whether they’re toddlers, elderly, or somewhere in between. Even if every member of your family is perfectly healthy right now, injuries or accidents can cause temporary disabilities—perhaps a broken hand or a bad back—at any time. Universal design makes recovering from accidents, living with long-term disabilities, and even just getting around your home on a day-to-day basis easier.

And contrary to popular belief, it doesn’t make your home look institutional or cold or anything of the sort. Really.

It’s all about making your home as livable and accessible as possible for everyone. Entire books have been written on this topic, and even they don’t touch on everything. So I can’t give you a rundown on all of the universal design considerations for the home. But I can give you a list of some of the basic ways to make your home easier to navigate. (Some of which you can do now, some of which will have to wait until you’re remodeling or building.)

And I promise I’ll write more about this topic soon!

• No-step entries make it easier to enter the home, whether you’re in a wheelchair, pushing a stroller, or carrying groceries. In addition, entries with low or no thresholds make entering even safer because you don’t have to worry about tripping over the threshold, which is especially great if you’re a bit of a klutz like me.

• Lever-style handles (rather than round doorknobs) make it possible to open the door even if your hands are full or if you have limited hand strength. (I use my elbow to open lever-style doors all the time when I’m carrying things into my house.)

• Wider doorways and hallways make it easier to move furniture in and out and navigate the home in a wheelchair. Go for doorways that are 36 inches wide rather than 32 inches and hallways that are 42 inches rather than 36.

• Rocker light switches are a cinch to turn on—and when they’re placed 36 inches from the floor, it’s easier for everyone to reach them regardless of how tall or short they are.

• Electrical outlets that are placed 18 to 24 inches above the floor make plugging items in no problem. And the more electrical outlets you include in your home the better, so you can use small kitchen appliances near food prep areas and curling irons in front of the bathroom mirror, for instance.

• Glare-free lighting helps anyone—but particularly people with limited vision—see better. And ample task lighting ensures that you can see what you’re doing wherever you are in the house.

• Nonslip flooring in every room of the house reduces the chance that people will slip and fall. And low-pile carpet is better than the thick, plush stuff because it’s easier to move around on.

• Keep main pathways for traffic flow through your home free of furnishings and clutter. Wide pathways ensure everyone can easily move through the room.

• Include plenty of storage that’s easy to access. This means storing most items at a height that can be reached without bending over or standing on tiptoes. Use open shelving and other forms of storage more than closed cabinets and drawers, and make sure your cabinetry has D- or C-shape pulls, which are easier to open than small knobs.

I haven’t even touched on the specifics for bathrooms and kitchens, two of the most-used areas of the home. They have a slew of their own universal design considerations. The links above will get you started thinking about what to do in those areas, and I’ll address each of them more soon.

For more info before I can get back to the topic, visit the AARP website (yes, even if you’re not retirement age). And if you’re doing some searching online, try searching for these terms in addition to “universal design”: barrier-free design, design for all, transgenerational design, inclusive design, aging in place.

Until Monday,
The Home Know-It-All

Planting Trees and Shrubs

I mentioned that fall is a good time to plant trees and shrubs in my post on early fall garden care. Now it’s time to fill you in on how to do it.

(It’s a particularly good time to plant container-grown trees and shrubs because the roots have time to establish before cold temperatures hit. The information below deals with planting in the ground, but many of the links I included have info on container planting as well.)

Before you purchase your trees or shrubs, figure out where you want to plant. Pick a spot that has good drainage. (You can test the soil for drainage by digging a hole 18 inches deep, filling it with water, and letting the water sit overnight. If the water hasn’t drained by morning, there’s a problem with the soil.)

Also make sure the tree or shrub you select will get the amount of sunlight it requires and that it will thrive in your climate. How big the tree or shrub will get is important too—you don’t want to have to remove it later if it gets too close to your house or the street. Speaking of the street—check local ordinances about planting, especially if you want to plant near a street corner or sidewalk.

Learn more about tree selection.

When you go to purchase your tree or shrub, keep in mind that they come in three basic forms: bare root (plant these guys as soon as possible), balled and burlapped, and container-grown. Lowe’s has a rundown on each to help you pick. (And their info on the tree planting process is pretty handy too!)

Plant your trees or shrubs as soon as you get home so they don’t dry out. If you can’t plant immediately, be sure to store them in a shady or sheltered spot.

Roots need room to grow, so begin by digging a hole twice to three times as wide as (and slightly shallower than) the root ball. Roughen the sides and bottom of the hole with a shovel so the roots can penetrate the soil.

When you pick your tree up, hold it by the root ball or container—whatever you do, don’t grab it by the trunk! Remove the root ball from the plastic or fibrous container you purchased it in and cut the roots if they circle around the root ball exterior. Get more specifics on planting the different types of trees.

Before you place the tree in the hole, make certain the hole is the proper depth. If you plant the tree too deeply, the roots will have trouble developing because of a lack of oxygen. You’re better off planting the tree a little high than planting it below the original growing level.

Once you place the tree in the hole, view it from several directions to make sure it’s straight. Then you can begin backfilling. Fill the hole until it’s about one-third full, then gently but firmly pack soil around the base of the root ball. Watering the soil helps pack it down more. Backfill more, then water again. Once you’ve filled the hole, you can mulch around the tree (use approximately 2 to 3 inches of mulch). Just be sure to avoid getting mulch directly on tree trunks and shrub stems.

Water the soil around your new tree or shrub well once planting is complete.

If necessary, stake your tree to support it until the roots are established. Trees with large crowns or those grown on windy sites may need staking; otherwise, your tree should be fine on its own.

Depending on where you live, if you plant a thin-barked tree, you may need to wrap it in white wrap to prevent sunscald during the winter.

For more about tree care after planting, check out the diagram on this page.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

DIY Headboards

I’m still coveting a big-kid bed frame for my box spring and mattress. But rather than spending tons of money on a frame from a furniture store, I’ve decided to make my own headboard instead. Now the trick is deciding which DIY idea I like the most. Here are some of my favorites.

Upholstered headboards like the one above are a great option because they’re so darn easy—build a simple plywood frame, attach batting and fabric, and you’re set. Try these instructions or check out the step-by-step info and ideas from Be Jane. This padded headboard is pretty cool too.

You can use fabric to adorn the area the headboard usually occupies—even if there isn’t an actual headboard there—by draping fabric over the wall or creating a canopy of curtains.

And fabric is only the beginning. Salvage a cool old fireplace mantel and make it your bedroom focal point, below. Or for another country touch, you can’t beat a picket fence, above.

A wallpaper headboard can look pretty swell. And I’m a big fan of Apartment Therapy’s take on using doors too.

If you’re still not inspired (or you want to see even more great ideas), you’ll find more DIY headboards here. And of course HGTV’s site is chockfull of headboard creations. Or just build a basic headboard frame and embellish it any way you darn well please.

If you don’t want to go to the trouble of building a headboard (or any of the other ideas I already mentioned), an attractive arrangement of framed photos or artwork can also be used to create a focal point above the bed instead. How about a faux headboard? (Yep, that’s right, you’re painting the wall here.) Or just arrange a pile of pretty pillows at the head of the bed and call it good.

Now, before I go, I want to know: What does your DIY headboard look like?

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Garbage Disposals

Ahh. Garbage disposals. They’re so darn handy, but at the same time they can be a real pain (particularly when they chew up your measuring spoons, start to smell, or stop working properly).

In an effort to make garbage disposal purchasing and use a little less painful, here’s some basic info.

Garbage Disposal Buying
There are two types of garbage disposals. Continuous-feed disposals (which are the only type I’ve had in my kitchens over the years) are operated by a wall or sink switch and need a constant stream of cold water running in use. (If you’ve heard the sound they make when you forget to turn the water on, you’ll understand why.) Batch-feed disposals require a stopper for operation. This provides increased safety—the disposer only works when the sink plug is inserted, and turning the plug starts and stops it.

When you shop for a garbage disposal, make sure the one you choose will fit comfortably underneath your sink and that the sink can support the model. If you have a dishwasher, make certain your disposal has a dishwasher connection.

You’ll also want to figure out how powerful of a motor you need. A 1/3-horsepower motor works best in an apartment or small family home—use it too much, and it will get stuck. If you have a large family or cook a lot, a ½- to 1-horsepower model is a better choice.

Garbage disposals can be noisy. Fatter disposals (those with larger cases) are typically quieter. Models that come with sound insulation are best.

As with about any appliance available these days, garbage disposals are available with a variety of special features. If you want to go all out (and ensure you’re getting a quality disposal that will work), look for corrosion protection shields, anti-jamming devices, overload manual reset buttons, self-service wrenches, and anti-splash baffles.

Know-It-All Note: If your home has never had a disposal and you want to add one, check your local codes first. Some local laws dictate how far the switch must be away from the sink—or even say whether or not you can use disposals at all.

Learn more about buying garbage disposals. If you’re installing your disposal yourself, try these step-by-step instructions or check out this handy animated tutorial.

Disposal Maintenance
Once you buy your handy dandy disposal, knowing what can and can’t go down there (and how to clean it) will keep it running (and disposing) smoothly.
• Avoid tossing fibrous foods such as potato skins, fruit and veggie peels, and eggshells down the disposal. (Just ask my honey—the Thanksgiving he peeled all the potatoes into the sink and tried to run the garbage disposal and they all ended up in the basement laundry room at his parent’s house was … interesting to say the least.)
• Avoid dumping fats or grease down there too.
• Don’t pour bleach, drain cleaners, and other chemicals into the unit.
• Try not to overfill the disposal.
• Run cold water—not hot—when the disposal is in use.
• Whatever you do, don’t reach into the disposal while it’s on! (I’m extremely paranoid about this one and you should be too!)

When an object falls into the disposer, I’ve read recommendations that you should shut off the power, remove the splash guard, and look around with a flashlight. Or do like I do: shut off the power, stick your hand down there (if your hand is small enough), and root around until you find what you’re looking for. (Yes, it can be gag-worthy if there’s still food down there, but as long as you triple-check that the power is off and you don’t have to worry about broken glass or other dangerous objects in there, you should be fine.)

Here’s what to do if your drain is clogged or your disposal is smelly.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All

Fall Cleaning To-Do List

I argued recently that seasonal cleaning shouldn’t be reserved for spring, and I’m going to expand on that even more now with a fall cleaning to-do list.

Here’s what I think should be done each fall. I probably forgot something, so if there’s anything on your fall cleaning list you don’t see here share it with others in the comments section below.

In the House

• Clean carpets, doormats, and rugs. Replace sisal or other summer rugs with winter ones.

• Clean and store spring and summer clothing; bring out your fall and winter duds. While you’re in the closet, why not get rid of a few things?

• Flip and rotate mattresses. Launder all bedding. If you use lightweight bed coverings in the summer, now’s the time to air out those winter comforters too.

• Clean out kitchen cupboards and the pantry.

• Clean behind your refrigerator, washer, and dryer.

• Replace batteries in smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors.

• Wash your windows.

• Hire someone to inspect your fireplace and chimney and get them ready for winter use.

• Clean out the garage. Even if it doesn’t need organizing, you may need to get rid of dirt that accumulated during the summer.

Outdoors

• Clean and store outdoor patio furniture and gardening supplies. (Don’t forget to clean outdoor cushions before storing too so they don’t become mildewy.)

• Drain and store garden hoses.

• Service the lawn mower. (You might need to hold off on this task for awhile, depending on how much longer you need to mow.)

• Install weatherstripping around outside doors.

• Inspect hot and cold supply lines that run through exterior walls and exposed pipes. Protect pipes by wrapping them with electric heat tape, fiberglass insulation, or readymade pipe jackets.

• Check out the roof—replace missing shingles or recaulk as needed.

• Clear debris from gutters and downspouts.

To keep on top of your cleaning tasks, perhaps you need a printable fall chore checklist. If you’re particularly motivated, here are three more chores to tackle.

Until tomorrow,
The Home Know-It-All